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Best SYE

M

MUDTRUK

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SE-MI
Looking around for a SYE and driveshaft for my MJ and was wondering what is the best kit to purchase? Not looking for a cheap one, I want a good qualtiy one and also a good cv driveshaft. Anyone have a good experience to pass on? thanks, Judd :)
 
i dont think he meant it that way chuck... i guess most sye kits are the same.... with the only dif being if its a kit with a new shaft or a hack n tap..... hard ware is basically the same... if money and time are not an issue i would do the kit with a new shaft.. and freshen up the inside of the t/case while im in there... new chain and maybe a 3.8:1 low range kit too.. i'm about to buy a Rubicon Express SYE kit and d/shaft soon myself..
mike
 
Since XJChuck started it, how about a NV241OR from a Rubicon? 4:1 low - I'm thinking it would fit nicely in my XJ, too...

In the meantime I've got an RE Hack-n-Tap enroute. If I felt like throwing more $$$ into it I'd say a beefier output shaft along with the SYE would have been a better investment.
 
What transfer case do you have?There'es only 2 out there(for the 231) and I would say they are the same.The RE kits are bandaids and do not fix the problem(they may fix the symtoms).If I had bought an HD kit up front I would have saved about $200+.
 
RCP Phx said:
What transfer case do you have?There'es only 2 out there(for the 231) and I would say they are the same.The RE kits are bandaids and do not fix the problem(they may fix the symtoms).If I had bought an HD kit up front I would have saved about $200+.
Click to expand...

:rolleyes:

then ur saying that all of tom woods kits are just band-aids and every kit out there except for the JB conversions and AA kit are bad-aids? because they are all "hack and taps" just with the kits other then RE...the company does it for u. still a stock output shaft...still a new tail cone. bottom line

Brad
 
What are you trying to say?Yes,all the other kits(RE,TW,MIT,Currie)are all band-aids to a poor design by Jeep.Only the AA and JB kits address the problem!
 
Guess I'll be looking for a JB or AA sye kit, how about driveshafts? I have a 231 tcase, thanks, Judd
 
RCP Phx

I thought the problem is the inability of the stock driveshaft to handle the angles from the t-case to rear axle. If that's the case then anything that puts a double cardan joint in solves that problem. The kits that come with the shorter tailshaft/housing are better, as they allow for a shorter driveshaft thus reducing the angle, but as long as the angles are within the correct operating range for the cardan joint then the other kits that don't provide for a longer drive shaft are fine.

If the problem is something else please let me know.
 
Last edited:
Stoneattic has it right. the only thing that the JB and AA sye's do different then the other kits is that they have a bigger output shaft. the bottom line is if u need the big output shaft then u probably need to be running something stronger then a 231 or 242. then its time to start thinking atlas II or a d300

Brad
 
Please clarify AA and JB for the great unwashed out here. Also, I have seen Rubicon Express, as an example, with two different kits. One is around $100 and the other is around $250 and has more parts.

Tom
 
Advanced adapters are the only two I have helped install and I like the HD output shaft myself. As for stock shaft I have seen two of them bend by my buddy (Tolly) who had a RE hack and tap in one and stock slip yolk in the other. In both of his TJ's. We are doing a AA sye in his this week. He is pretty hard on the throttle though
 
i was about to say bucky...tolly kinda deserved the tailshaft to bed on the jeep though...if it hadnt bent though...the aluminum case very well may have gave way...so...maybe its not a bad thing it bent.

Brad
 
okay so I'm gonna have the tcase open, what else should I replace? Might as well do it since I'm gonna have it cracked open anyways, judd
 
The real problem is the loading on the shaft due to the amount of "un-supported" shaft after the bearing.If your talking early XJ's then the price is almost a wash.If were talking about 97+ then you will benifit even more.

With the exception of the 97+ RE kit,the JB and AA kits are the same price as the modified stock shafts but they are Heavy Duty.
 
PhatXJ said:
AA SS SYE & TW CV DS
Click to expand...
:guitar:
...and now I know my abc's, next time won't you sing with me.

You will find out that cracking the 231 is not a big deal. So, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

The JB Conversions and Advanced Adapters heavy duty SYE's are well worth the extra cost. Do it right the first time.

RR3
 
I was about to do a SYE for my XJ too.. but then again the gears started turning.... get it? the 'gears'?:D

$250 SYE
$100 HD Chain
$200 HD sprockets (HD planetary Gears)

you got $550 into your shit box 231


then I went ahead and unplugged my brain and bought a D300 FLIP KIT for $550 SHIPPED (4x4groupbuy had a special think they still do if you beg enough):D

sold my shit box for $150 and bought a nice D300 for 150-175 (cant remember)

called up AA for their CLOCKING RING, and they new imput gear for $150.
(you dont need a clocking ring. You can get away with just a spacer ~$80)

Now for $700 dollars I have Gear driven:D Steal cased:D twin sticked:D CLocked flat:D Fixed yoked:D 8" shorter than 231:D D300:D

up to you... like said before
If your gonna do it..... Do it right the first time.
Click to expand...
 
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