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RE Hac n Tap

kniel3378

NAXJA Forum User
Just ordered one for my 99 xj.

I have around 5.5 to 6 inches of lift and was wondering if the Xj front shaft will fit perfectly or will it need to be shortened.

I have the C8.25
 
what transmission and transfer-case? i don't know your answer but that will make a difference in the length of your drive-train.
 
I think you'll be fine.

I've got the HnT with a front shaft on almost 5 inches, and it's working great. No shims either.
 
I've ran it a 6". You will be fine. JIM.
 
I've got the Hack n Tap on my XJ and i'm sitting at about 3.5-4", so you'll be just fine!
 
Unless things have changed ,the RE H & T comes with a flange and not a yoke.The stock front driveshaft has a yoke style attachment.

You need an adapter or a new flanged driveshaft.
But it has been many years since I did mine----
 
yes to use the front xj shaft you need to get a spicer flange. Part #627 through napa.


Unless things have changed ,the RE H & T comes with a flange and not a yoke.The stock front driveshaft has a yoke style attachment.

You need an adapter or a new flanged driveshaft.
But it has been many years since I did mine----
 
For a H&T you cut the output shaft. This can be cut shorter or longer depending on your wants and needs. This may help you with front driveline length issue. There is a table here somewhere that gives the lengths from different Jeeps. I think there's a ZJ that's over 32".
 
This may be an exceedingly dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway because otherwise it'll bother me:

The preferred method of ensuring a properly true cut on the output shaft is to have the engine running and the trans in reverse with the rear shaft removed. That's all well and good, but if you pull the rear shaft off a pre-96 case, you have to put some sort of seal on it or it pukes all its fluid out. So, how do you perform the cut with the case internals turning and not run it dry in the process? Do H&T kits come with some sort of temporary seal to use while making the cut, or is it "cut quick before you run out of juice?
 
This may be an exceedingly dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway because otherwise it'll bother me:

The preferred method of ensuring a properly true cut on the output shaft is to have the engine running and the trans in reverse with the rear shaft removed. That's all well and good, but if you pull the rear shaft off a pre-96 case, you have to put some sort of seal on it or it pukes all its fluid out. So, how do you perform the cut with the case internals turning and not run it dry in the process? Do H&T kits come with some sort of temporary seal to use while making the cut, or is it "cut quick before you run out of juice?

Running the Jeep while cutting the output shaft is not prefered. RE looked at me like I was crazy when I mentioned this. Just get under the Jeep and cut it. If it's not perfect, no harm.
 
This may be an exceedingly dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway because otherwise it'll bother me:

The preferred method of ensuring a properly true cut on the output shaft is to have the engine running and the trans in reverse with the rear shaft removed. That's all well and good, but if you pull the rear shaft off a pre-96 case, you have to put some sort of seal on it or it pukes all its fluid out. So, how do you perform the cut with the case internals turning and not run it dry in the process? Do H&T kits come with some sort of temporary seal to use while making the cut, or is it "cut quick before you run out of juice?

its the prefered way if you want a perfect cut and your skilled enough. a perfect cut is not needed though, nor does the tapped hole in the end of the output shaft need to be perfectly centered. just dont break the drill bit or tap in the output shaft.

also about the output seal, i will only leak about a pint and cause no damage. park down hill if your concerned.
 
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