ZJ V8 steering pump, Durango box, and hydroboost?

[rockclimber]

Again, you don't know what you're talking about, you just spew shit from the internet. What bushing? My Durango box was identical internally to every zj/xj box i have disassembled, aside from size.

I've pulled apart 2 from JYs that had brass bushings supporting the sector shaft.

I've seen at least 3 deform that bushing, causing the sector shaft to shift, crush the seal and piss all the fluid right out.

To be fair, one of them was caused by the Ram over traveling the box and lack of steering stops. Probably would have killed any box eventually.

 

[rockclimber]

Actually, so was the Astro box I use on my SAS S10. That truck has never steered/driven so well since I put that box on it.

I agree about the cracking issue on the unibody- it should be obvious and I think I mentioned, I will of course be welding the C-Rok reinforcement plate onto it in place of the crappy aluminum spacer that comes with the vehicle stock. This does quite a fine job of taking care of the front end issue, as I've had one on my 90 for about 17 years now.

Trackbar bracket is of course going to be upgraded as well. Since I'm lifting, IMHO, this is one of those "duh, of course you have to do that as well" things. But you're not a mind reader and this isn't common practice, so fair point.

OEM box is leaking, I don't feel like rebuilding it. I could, just don't feel like it. I will be replacing the pump and gearbox at the same time, and doing the wleded-in unibody reinforcement as well.

Cooler is one of the first things I do to any vehicle I buy- the biggest tranny cooler I can fit to it goes downstream of the OEM, and PS cooler goes on the PS return. Both are plate-type, and both get inline filters as well. These are no-brainers, but not everyone does it. Just the smart folks.

Really don't think the bushing is a huge issue.

As long as you know what you're getting into.

I've rebuilt a couple of oem boxes and tapped them. I hear you on not wanting to deal with it.



If you're doing a high volume pump make sure your cooler can flow fast enough to not starve it.

 

[Vanimal]

I've pulled apart 2 from JYs that had brass bushings supporting the sector shaft.

I've seen at least 3 deform that bushing, causing the sector shaft to shift, crush the seal and piss all the fluid right out.

To be fair, one of them was caused by the Ram over traveling the box and lack of steering stops. Probably would have killed any box eventually.

i've pulled apart at least 3, all bearings. Never have seen a bushing......

 

[burntkat]

I've pulled apart 2 from JYs that had brass bushings supporting the sector shaft.

I've seen at least 3 deform that bushing, causing the sector shaft to shift, crush the seal and piss all the fluid right out.

To be fair, one of them was caused by the Ram over traveling the box and lack of steering stops. Probably would have killed any box eventually.

This sort of concern is one of the reasons why people put steering braces in, anyway. It's a push, really.

 

[burntkat]

As long as you know what you're getting into.
I've rebuilt a couple of oem boxes and tapped them. I hear you on not wanting to deal with it.
If you're doing a high volume pump make sure your cooler can flow fast enough to not starve it.

Concur on all points.

The last box I tapped, I did it without taking the box apart. Grease the tap, go really slow, and back completely out and clean the tap often. To be honest, it's probably more work this way than it would be to just take the damn thing apart and get it done.

I wouldn't consider doing it if I wasn't running a 1-quart hydraulic filter on the return line off the steering gearbox. There are doubtless small chips that might get past my greased tap and careful tapping- they will be caught by the filter. Downstream of that filter I have a Magnefine filter (this is, to be honest, rather wasteful- yet I'm still getting stuff on the magnet of that, so maybe not!) I'm kinda a filter snob. My junk tends to last a long while, though. (and in this application it's also running a hydroboost, and those are notoriously fickle if there is any crap in the fluid).

The cooler is only a 2-pass. I'm told (Elliot @ West Texas) that anything more gets too restrictive. I haven't tried that to be sure for myself, but Elliot knows more about this stuff than I have time to learn, so I'm good with that.

 

[rockclimber]

Concur on all points.

The last box I tapped, I did it without taking the box apart. Grease the tap, go really slow, and back completely out and clean the tap often. To be honest, it's probably more work this way than it would be to just take the damn thing apart and get it done.

I wouldn't consider doing it if I wasn't running a 1-quart hydraulic filter on the return line off the steering gearbox. There are doubtless small chips that might get past my greased tap and careful tapping- they will be caught by the filter. Downstream of that filter I have a Magnefine filter (this is, to be honest, rather wasteful- yet I'm still getting stuff on the magnet of that, so maybe not!) I'm kinda a filter snob. My junk tends to last a long while, though. (and in this application it's also running a hydroboost, and those are notoriously fickle if there is any crap in the fluid).

I helped a friend of mine setup assist and he tapped his box this way.
I argued against it, but its been 2 years and he has had no issues.
no filters.

 

[SBpunk]

Didn't read the thread but I can chime in a bit on the WJ steering pump. It's not like the stock pump where it has threaded holes in the middle where you can run two bolts from either side. You need to get a bolt long enough to go through the pulley side and out the back. To me it wasn't worth is since it's even more of a pain when you need to pull the belt off or tighten it down. I'm sure people have mentioned swapping out the inlets to the correct size from the stock one. That parts easy. I'm running an S10 Zr2 box because the Durango one ate my turning radius. You can modify the box but most of them you get off the shelves have a smaller turning radius that you'll notice every time you pull into a parking spot. This was on my DD so I swapped out and went with the ZJ box (faster turning ratio) and then an S10 box (stronger internals) when the ZJ box finally gave out. My own fault for not checking fluids. Good luck!

 

[burntkat]

Hmm.. I have an S10 box I pulled off of my truck when I did the SAS....

Nope, that's a no-go. It's the same part.

 

[SBpunk]

Quote from another forum but the later years do work. Not sure if the internals are the same as the pre 96 but who knows.
Quote:
pre 96 s10 box is what you want to look for.. not sure the the later years will fit or not. Some may say that a V8 durango box will work (which it will) but they use brass bushings as opposed to chevy which uses dual ball bearings which makes it a good choice for a strong reliable steering box. you might want to also consider bracing your box or sub frame so you don't rip the bolts thru their holes

 

[SBpunk]

I keep waiting for someone to sell modified Durango boxes but no luck yet. I don't trust my skills enough to mess with a steering gear. I'm more of a "hit it with a hammer until it moves" kind of guy.

 

[souske]

If you're doing a high volume pump make sure your cooler can flow fast enough to not starve it.

Where does the fluid go?:twak:

 

[Vanimal]

every durango box i've owned or opened has had BEARINGS, not bushings.

 

[rockclimber]

Where does the fluid go?:twak:

If it can't get through the cooler as fast as the pump needs it to, it will cavitate

 

[burntkat]

I keep waiting for someone to sell modified Durango boxes but no luck yet. I don't trust my skills enough to mess with a steering gear. I'm more of a "hit it with a hammer until it moves" kind of guy.

It's actually really hard to screw up tapping a hole, so long as you read and follow directions and take your time.

 

[burntkat]

If it can't get through the cooler as fast as the pump needs it to, it will cavitate

This.

I thought it was BS as well, till I built the hydroboost system on my S10. It was absolutely critical where I located my returns and the filter/cooler.

 

[burntkat]

Quote from another forum but the later years do work. Not sure if the internals are the same as the pre 96 but who knows.
Quote:
pre 96 s10 box is what you want to look for.. not sure the the later years will fit or not. Some may say that a V8 durango box will work (which it will) but they use brass bushings as opposed to chevy which uses dual ball bearings which makes it a good choice for a strong reliable steering box. you might want to also consider bracing your box or sub frame so you don't rip the bolts thru their holes

I, too, can use the google.


Saw that thread- it was too full of demonstrably BS info for me to trust it.

 

[souske]

If it can't get through the cooler as fast as the pump needs it to, it will cavitate

it will get through as fast as the pump pushes it.

 

[burntkat]

it will get through as fast as the pump pushes it.

Might be time to brush up on your fluid power knowledge a bit.

Constriction is very much a thing. Tubing size, length, and changes of direction all factor into it as well.

 

[Vanimal]

Might be time to brush up on your fluid power knowledge a bit.

Constriction is very much a thing. Tubing size, length, and changes of direction all factor into it as well.

yep this is true.

 

[SBpunk]

It's actually really hard to screw up tapping a hole, so long as you read and follow directions and take your time.

Not really concerned with the tapping its the turning radius. Both Durango boxes I've put on my MJ's have had a pretty significant reduction with the turning radius. There's a writeup around here on how to rectify it but its been a few years since I looked into it.