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XJ removable roll cage

SOUTHTEXASXJ said:
Really thats the way to go that way for wheatever reason you can remove it if you need to!

Part of the reason for building it like I did was so that if I needed to replace the heater core or anything else that would require removing the dash, I could do it. I would say that it wouldn't take me over 5 min with an impact to remove the complete front part of the cage. Total of 12 bolts.
 
Thanks guys,

I am still thinking about adding an exo. Nothing too much, just enough to stop most of the fender/door damage. Probably wait till I get a few more ponies under the hood. I will make it removable also.
 
very nice
 
GREAT CAGE! I just bought a cage from RockHard4X4, it's good to know you can take it with you if you trash the body.
Great idea about the light exo. keep us posted. :cheers: -B
 
I may be blind, but who makes that rack. Does it allow for the back seat, or do you lose that with the rollbar? I have been looking to get one custom made, similiar... Cost, location, info?
 
Phil said:
Don't forget to torque your roll cage before each trip.
your bolts are there in shear motion, not really needing to torue them, but still you dont want to let them get to loose....i would be more concerned about finding a bolt that could with stand that sort of shear stress
 
red_01_xj said:
your bolts are there in shear motion, not really needing to torue them, but still you dont want to let them get to loose....i would be more concerned about finding a bolt that could with stand that sort of shear stress

Do you take that approach with your lug nuts? Or a winch bumper?

Torque your roll cage, so that the bolts are in tension, and the connections are carrying at least some of the load. Like, friction? Come on now.



Torque your roll cage.
 
Phil said:
Do you take that approach with your lug nuts? Or a winch bumper?

Torque your roll cage, so that the bolts are in tension, and the connections are carrying at least some of the load. Like, friction? Come on now.



Torque your roll cage.
I was just saying I would be more concerned about the bolt strenght than the torque...I would still torque them and check them often
 
i really like the boxed in section of the rear wheel wells!

shoot - i have to contstantly torque my foot plates with road vibration and trail use - the way those bolts a set up it shouldnt be a problem - i think this set up is IDEAL and i wish i had taken the time to make mine fit like yours and also have the removable options incase somthing bends, breaks etc it is a lot cleaner and easier to replace a piece rather than cut and splice inside the cab... plus u can get the full welds easier... cool man!!!
 
personally I would get some metric 12.9 bolts. They are a higher streangth than grade 8 SAE and offer a bit more shear streangth. Not to mention most of the bolts on an XJ are already metric.

BTW the cage looks real good. Any chance you have a pic of the connector before it was installed in the tubing? Was wondering if the connector was machined to go into the tubing or if it was but welded.
 
Brian_NJ said:
personally I would get some metric 12.9 bolts. They are a higher streangth than grade 8 SAE and offer a bit more shear streangth. Not to mention most of the bolts on an XJ are already metric.

BTW the cage looks real good. Any chance you have a pic of the connector before it was installed in the tubing? Was wondering if the connector was machined to go into the tubing or if it was but welded.

I specified the threads when I ordered them. I was not aware of the other bolts and I already had them left over from doing some work on my Rhino.

Yes, the connector is machined down to fit tight inside the tubing. I will get some pictures of the connectors by themselves tonight and post tomorrow along with a couple of the painted cage installed.
 
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