WJ knuckle and brake swap, new question...

[yossarian19]

WJ stuff is a 12" rear. I doubt JK is any bigger.
15" stock steel + 1.5" spacer = success with Akebono calipers. That makes it, what, 15" steel w/ 3.75" back space works. 4" might.
I'd just go 16" though and use close-to-factory back space. Clear your 12" brakes on both ends.

 

[Hypoid]

I have compared rotor diameter between a ZJ and WJ at the boneyard; same diameter. For some reason(s) that I can't remember, I bought the ZJ brakes to adapt to my D-44.

I think some of the choices depend on which rear axle you are using.

 

[IdahoEagle]

WJ is C-clip, JK uses bolt on retainers like the XJ, only a different pattern. I have a local axle outfit (Dutchman is in the next town over now) that can swap bearing ends on the XJ housing for me for a reasonable price, drill them for the JK retainers, and supply me with the shafts and bearings all in one place I know you can get 5 on 5 1/2" drilled rotors (single pattern) for the JK from places like Currie, Tera, and Dynatrac. So I was kinda hoping that the JK brakes were a little bigger as an added benefit. Who knows, maybe I can use the Ram 1500 front brakes, I know there were versions that had bigger front brakes too...

 

[Kittrell]

WJ is C-clip, JK uses bolt on retainers like the XJ, only a different pattern. I have a local axle outfit (Dutchman is in the next town over now) that can swap bearing ends on the XJ housing for me for a reasonable price...

Where would you find JK housing ends? Currie is the only place I know that manufactures them and they are ID'd for their RockJock axles. They also use a Set 80 bearing instead of the stock Set 10.

 

[ocean_jet]

The big deal there is clearing the calipers. A 15" alloy wheel is said to interfere, while a 15" steel wheel with shallow offset will clear the same caliper.

My 15" alloys just clear the WJ caliper...

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

My 15" alloys just clear the WJ caliper...

ditto. but i also run spacers. the big issue was the offset tie rod ends. with straight tie rod ends i wouldnt need the spacers for the calipers

 

[IdahoEagle]

Where would you find JK housing ends? Currie is the only place I know that manufactures them and they are ID'd for their RockJock axles. They also use a Set 80 bearing instead of the stock Set 10.

Set 10 bearings are fine for me. I'm not building a competition rig. Dutchman Motorsports builds their own blank bearing ends and drills them for the pattern the customer needs. That's the route I'm going with.
I don't mind a slightly custom housing as long as the parts that wear or might break with excessive abuse can be easily replaced. But considering I'm not going to beat on it and I'm keeping the 4 cylinder under the hood, I doubt I'll break anything. I'm going to 32 or 33 spline JK rear diff and XJ length upgraded shafts when I do it.
For the front, I may eventually do a cut down Ford high pinion 44 with new Cs and gussets with TJ Rubicon 44 shafts for easy replacement. I'm at 2" of lift now, going to 3" Zone or BDS just so I can get new rear springs and clear 33s with my Napier flares...
Nothing gives piece of mind like being a little overbuilt and not having to hunt for parts when something wears out or brakes...

 

[cal]

You'll want to do jeep wagoneer shafts. If you try to do TJ Rubicon shafts you'll be like 64" wide and the diff will be under your oil pan.

 

[IdahoEagle]

How would that be? TJ Rubicons are only 60" WMS just like a regular TJ,XJ, ZJ, MJ...

 

[cal]

TJ Rubicon outer stub is like 4" long while a Ford outer is like 8" long.

So the TJ inners are longer to make up the difference.

 

[IdahoEagle]

TJ inners and outers are the same length as the XJS are... And if I do build that front 44, it will be the same width as a TJ Rubicon 44 front. Main differences will be thick axle tube and high pinion... Somehow you are looking at this idea sideways and backwards.
The stubs are different lengths, but the inners on the TJ are much shorter than an F-150 or F-250 44 is... WMS on the Ford 44 to start with is around 65", the TJ WMS is 60"...

 

[cal]

Maybe the confusion is you said "TJ Rubicon shafts" and not xj or tj knuckles.


if you're talking about running XJ or TJ outers and knuckles then yes, you're right.

 

[IdahoEagle]

WJ knuckles with TJ Rubicon inner shafts...

 

[cal]

Maybe I'll save you the money and sell you that exact front 44 when I build something better.

 

[IdahoEagle]

Whether I keep a hp30 or build that hp44, I'll be using WJ knuckles with possibly Ram 1500 brakes and unit bearings. I really want to upgrade the brakes and be able to run 5 on 5 1/" bolt pattern...

 

[cal]

My friend, over the last 4 years I have spent more than $2,000 on front axle repairs alone. I can tell you beyond all shadow of a doubt, the best path for what you are trying to do is to run the Warn/Yukon hub kit on WJ knuckles.

The Dodge 1500 stuff is total junk (good brakes, bad bearings), redrilling WJ unit bearings doesnt leave enough meat to be safe and JK unit bearings aren't durable enough for the end game.

Without going to 1 ton outers and running modified F-450 unit bearings, the best bet us the hub kit or going with traditional dana 44 stuff.

 

[IdahoEagle]

The 1500 IFS version... And under the 6,000 pound truck I can see them being lousy, but the bearing looks to be the same size as the WJ. And under the lightweight XJ they should be just fine, even on 33s...
And as far as running any kind of a hub kit is concerned, I can't justify that kind of money being spent on that concept when I'm setting up a different axle anyway. For the same or less investment I could just go with a real 44 from hub to hub and be done.
I'm building a 4 banger mileage/expedition/DD/mild trail rig. A thought of budget is in mind at the same time as wanting to get a bit creative in trying to build a better outhouse...
HP30 or 44 for driveline angles and gear strength, nondisconnect for dependability, big brakes to help stop heavier tires, better steering to improve overall driveability, a bit bigger unit bearings than the standard XJ 30 to help with big tire stresses long term, bigger lower balljoints for the same reason.
XJ 44 with different bearing ends for JK brakes and retainers for replaceability and improved stopping power, JK spline count and possibly diff parts for more strength.
AX-15 with a fullsize Jeep 208 and Novak clocking ring for spacing and maybe a little more ground clearance, and much stronger transmission and transfercase with wide chain and gears with a 4 pinion planetary set and factory fixed yoke with a 228/229 front case half so I can twin stick it for 2 low ability...
Basically wanting a Jeep that's better than the factory built, but could have at different points using parts that were available in different Jeeps/Chrysler vehicles over the years...

 

[cal]

Maybe you should weigh your XJ. I wouldnt call them lightweight. Mine is over 5,000 pounds loaded up.

 

[IdahoEagle]

Mine is less than 3,500 with a full tank and me in it... I know it will gain a little with various mods, but not a thousand pounds worth...

 

[Root Moose]

Mine is less than 3,500 with a full tank and me in it... I know it will gain a little with various mods, but not a thousand pounds worth...

Yes you will.. Mine is an overlanding style build and I'm at around 4200 lbs. Built 30 and 1/4 ton 44, armour, long arms, 265/75-16 tires. No weight/ gear inside to speak of. That's no passengers, half tank fuel, weighed at hwy weigh station.