what would you do/advise?

[lazyxj]

ok so i took it in for a alignment and the print out has my caster at 4.4 degrees and my toe is set to 0.

While the caster is a little low, it shouldn't cause death wobble if everything is tight. I ran a 3 degrees, @ 4" of lift, for many years
Have you checked everything that moves; including track bar, tie rods, ball joints, drag link, etc?
I would remove all the cotter keys and retorque the nuts. Check the track bar, frame-side bracket and power steering boxe's mounting bolt, for tightness.
Is the steering box tight or does it have play?

Afterwards, have a friend rock the steering wheel back and forth, while you get under the front end and touch every moving steering part, feeling for any indications of looseness.
Having the engine running, so the power steering is operating, works even better for this examination.
Very closely check the track bar bushings, while doing this....and watch your fingers and keep your hands out of the serpentine belt, it bites.

 

[lazyxj]

[QUOTE ]
where are you reading your caster angles from?[/QUOTE]

I have used Go Jeep's site for checking caster for year.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

A digital torpedo level can also be used, sitting on top of the upper ball joint, remove the zerk fitting first for best results.

 

[fuelfox4949]

See i have used a clinometer app on my phone, and also a magnetic angle finder on both the upper ball joint and under the c on a small flat part.

I have read that gojeep page over and over but can not see how he is measuring, it is not clear enough for me to get.

 

[moparmansfield]

6.5" on short arms is horrible. Either drop it to 4"ish or put a control arm drop or long arm kit on it. Think about how the input from your axle Is being transferred to your frame. The more level your control arms are, the more the input from the road will travel through your springs. As you add angle to the control arms, you are allowing the input from the road to be split between the springs and control arms. I bet your jeep rides pretty stiff, doesn't it. Another issue with big lifts and short arms (especially non-adjustable) is that the more you lift it, the more the axle moves towards the body. Theres a lot of negative aspects of how you have it set up now. In my opinion, 6.5" of lift is overkill. If I were you I'd drop it to 4-5" with either long arms or a control arm drop and if you don't already have one, install a high quality double sheer trac bar, like the heavy duty rubicon express one. Stock style steering should be fine if you have a drop pitman arm and your joints are healthy. When it comes to alignment, I don't know the actual numbers, but don't have the pinion pointing at the t-case. It should be pointing below it but not with enough angle that it causes vibrations. Trying out different settings yourself is the best way to get that figured out. Also, that 6.5 lift is making that window of correct pinion angle(caster) much smaller as you need a certain angle for the driveshaft u joint, and a certain angle for the axle. At stock height they overlap a ton. At 6.5"... I'm not sure if they overlap at all. And long arms are the shit. I only have long arms for my lowers and this thing drives great. No wobbles, to shimmys, nothing. I accidentally find myself going 80mph on the highway pretty often since it's so smooth. Im at 4" on 33s with 4.56s.

 

[fuelfox4949]

just so we are clear i have 6.5 iror lift, iror hd tierod, iror adjustable double shear trac bar, i have there extended lower control arms and adjustable upper control arms. everything is new in the steering i.e drag link, tre, pitman arm tre.

i am currently planning on upgrading to a long arm kit i think it will be better then control arm drop brackets. i to am at 4.56 gears with 32s as soon as they wear out i have a brand new set of 35s sitting in my garage. i started with 4.5 inch rough country lift and took it up to 6.5 iror lift.

however i will not be able to get arms for another month so i am trying to make this setup work tell then. i spent 2 weekends adjusting caster trying to find the sweet spot and feel like i am close however today i found my upper axle control arm bushing was not pressed in to the mount so i think that was causing the dw. i will not be able to get 2 new ones tell Wednesday around noon so i cant test drive tell then.

so the plan so far is to try to get more caster by either making shims or adjusting my top control arms, then installing the new axle upper bushing then i can test drive and go from there.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

well i just went to adjust my upper arms a little and on the axle side mount the collar that holds the bushing i was able to push out with my finger and tap the other out so im thinking that is not helping anything. them being loose in there.
so i will buy new bushings and press them into the axle, i will make some shims to add more caster and try again.
where are you reading your caster angles from?

UCA bushings will do it. on the first page you made it sound as if everythingelse was tight, but never mentioned them, hence the suggestion. i would replace those before even playing with castor.

since i swapped axles i measure castor off of the giant flat spot my high steer arm gives me. before i would just remove the zerk off of the upper ball joint. just a cheap harbor freight magnetic angle finder. its been fairly accurate over the years... given the angle finders tolerance and exactly what you are measuring the angle relative to. i am also within half of a degree of the alignment rack.

 

[fuelfox4949]

yes when i started this 2 weeks ago i was under it and was shaking everything and it felt good, then i had a friend turn the wheel back and forth and i didnt see anything move but i had a torn boot so i replaced all the steering to be sure.

i was trying to do my own alignment and get it spot on then i would take it in so i could get a computer alignment done and see how "on or off" i was.

when i got it back from the alignment shop and seen it was only 4.4 degree caster i took the upper arms off to shorten them and the bushing popped out of the axle mount.

so maybe i missed it while hanging on everything like a monkey under my jeep or the tires plus knocked it out for some reason. either way i am fixing it and gonna keep at it tell this drives smooth and straight.

 

[fuelfox4949]

so i just wanted to update...
i decided to take the whole front axle out and detach everything checking mounts and bushings and re-tightening the nuts and new cotter keys. i cleaned it up reassembled everything, put my camber set at 5 degrees by placing angle finder on upper ball joint.
took it out for a 50 plus mile drive last night and everything went smooth and no wobbles!
so far so good,
i do want to thank everyone for there help and guidance.