What else would you replace while accessible?

[in4aride]

ya that does make a lot of sense. ill look at it later this week, thanks :thumbup:

 

[bails85]

any idea on your motor mount status. i would change mine if they needed it. all in all the list of stuff from this thread is very good info and worth doing. it wont take you too long. a few beers and a day of wrenching. good luck

 

[bails85]

oh this might be a stupid question but i thought you had to pull the tranny to replace the rms. i have never done it on my jeep but my motor only has 1000 miles on it after rebuild. just curious to know.

 

[robsjeepxj]

No just the rear bearing cap, trans can stay as is. While you have the rear main cap off take a look at the bearing surface and the crank. If either one looks damaged in any way I would go ahead and check the rest too while I was at it. You can get a plasti-gage set of a few bucks at most parts stores, check all the crank and rod bearings. Mine were all fine still thank God even with 170K so I just did the RMS, oil pump, and one piece rubber pan gasket (definitely get this) and called it done. One the top end I replaced the cam, lifters, timing set, injectors (4 hole), thermostat and sent the head out to get tuned up but unless your having issues with it I wouldn't bother. Balancer was fine too by the way.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Mike,

After rethinking this, go ahead and pop in a good oil pump. I am a fan of high volume pumps as I usually add an engine oil cooler with remote filtering. To do an engine oil cooler properly, you need the higher volume rated pump. Otherwise a solid stock replacement is in order. Just remember to prime the engine prior to starting it.

The vibration dampers can and do fail. The rubber breaks down and in extreme failure mode, the pulley will part company from the heep. If yours is on the way out, you can, usually (and everyone feel free to correct me) see the rubber start to expand out from between the two pieces that comprise the assembly. Or you will see it wobble when running.

I'll shoot you a PM with the telephone number. If you need a torque wrench, give me a call and we will setup a time for me to come over and kibbitz. I can't do the work anymore but that does not mean I can't help you out...

 

[eflores]

As said before go with a rubber gasket not the cork ones.......if you've ever done or had to remove cork u know what I mean

 

[ParadiseXJ]

oh this might be a stupid question but i thought you had to pull the tranny to replace the rms.

Umm, no...and the hardest part of getting the pan off is not actually getting it OFF, it's more getting it OUT.

Use spray on gasket remover, spray it around the entire circumference of the pan, clean up, go inside, have dinner, go to bed...when you get up in the morning the pan will likely be laying on the axle (or close to it)

 

[ehall]

oh this might be a stupid question but i thought you had to pull the tranny to replace the rms. i have never done it on my jeep but my motor only has 1000 miles on it after rebuild. just curious to know.

Not on these engines. These use a two-part seal with two C-shaped halves. You put the two halves together around the crank then slide it into place.

 

[souske]

Oil filter adapter O-rings would be another good thing to replace, as its a PITA in the vehicle

Also, clean your engine bay, it makes all the other work that much nicer

 

[in4aride]

Just to clarify. I'm not pulling the motor. I'm pulling the front axle and suspension.

Motor mounts are brown Dog :thumbup:

 

[BrokenSockets]

Souske,

I like your Amish Cherokee build. Do the reins go in the side windows or through one of the holes in the firewall?

 

[souske]

lol

 

[old_man]

If you are going to replace anything I recommend the thermostat and radiator cap. You should replace the radiator cap every two years and they tend to fail at the worst times.

I would clean the fender wells and hit them with some undercoating to cut down the noise and keep the rust to minimum. A new isolator on the springs can be nice. Check your brake lines out to make sure they are good.

Its a nice time to add a steering box brace if you don't have one. Tack weld your track bar bracket.

 

[ehall]

Definitely replace whatever u-joints you can while everything is easy to work on.

 

[robsjeepxj]

Mike,

After rethinking this, go ahead and pop in a good oil pump. I am a fan of high volume pumps as I usually add an engine oil cooler with remote filtering. To do an engine oil cooler properly, you need the higher volume rated pump. Otherwise a solid stock replacement is in order. Just remember to prime the engine prior to starting it.

HV oil pump won't fit under the stock oil pan besides the stock unit puts out more than enough of oil pressure. Unless you plan on buying a custom oil pan too just go with the stock pump. Too much pressure and your just asking for more oil leaks and everybody knows the 4.0's love to leak.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

High Volume pumps output more volume, not pressure... And I only recommend a HV pump if an oil cooler is to be fitted. As I stated in the quote you used. A stock replacement is otherwise called for.