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What did you do to your XJ today

Today I fixed the POS Rough Country rear springs on my Jeep. I've had these leafs replaced three times due to bushings wearing out in less than 300 miles as well as the springs sliding over on the bushings. I took my factory spring set apart and saved the main leaf. Then took the ones from the kit apart and ditched the main leaf. Then put the RC springs on the Jeep main leafs. Freaking awesome now! Now more vibrations and axle/tire noise being transmitted through the chassis.
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ypy3u6yv.jpg


ajetetys.jpg


5uhaqysa.jpg


6ybezuba.jpg


As you can see I lost a little lift looking at the arch of the two springs which is fine since it sat a tad high already in the rear
 
Well the other day I got my Grizzly locker installed. While I had the axle apart I noticed the cap bolts were only grade 5. Also to me it didn't seem like there were enough tread into the cast center section.

ahete5a7.jpg


So onto the infonet I went, in search of 7/16-14 grade 8 double ended studs. I found them here http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/
etevu6y5.jpg


My plan was to get as much thread engagement into the cast part of the center as possible. It ended up with 11/2".
I did have to cut two treads off each stud to make this happen.

Before
pajy8ygy.jpg

And after
2etanemu.jpg


Everything installed
ny9a3aja.jpg


I was going to use 12 point ARP flange nuts. But after talking with the fastener vendor he told me not to waste my money. So he set me up with extra thick grade 8 frame washers and plain old grade 8 hex nuts in yellow zinc coating. he recommend the zinc coating over black oxide because they yealed a truer (sp?) torque. I also used liquid tread locker on both ends of the fastener. He told me that it is actually rated to be a tread lube while still in liqued form.

I know this is probably ridiculous for a Dana 30, But I figure it won't hurt ether. I'm this deep in the turd so I may as well keep polishing.
 
Sounds like some good customer service over at clipsandfasteners.com....
*** BOOKMARKED ***
 
bled the brakes some more still sponge. put soft balls in the front springs to act as bump stops. found out that my shocks limit the front alot so plan on installing dodge 1500 shocks when i get time to make the brakects.
 
I drove mine to work today for the first time in awhile. brakes are still sponge but everything else ran perfectly

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THERE! now we belive you :D.

Gratz man, looking good. the softballs made me LOL in the parking lot. I bet some of the locals thought I was a creeper.

Bronze.
 
IMG_20131025_110522_zpsfc305532.jpg


THERE! now we belive you :D.

Gratz man, looking good. the softballs made me LOL in the parking lot. I bet some of the locals thought I was a creeper.

Bronze.
i see how it is i was at the shopping with the fiance" and kid so we just parked it there. softballs may be kinda reneck but paid $.50 for both couldnt beat it. thank you btw

P.s why were you checking out my jeeps rearend
 
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they look like they work better than my $2.50 hokey pucks... I was looking at the rear pinion angle. how much droop you got back there? might be worth cutting the perches loose and giving it a twist. any vibs?

Bronze.
the perches are set for a sye that I dont have the funds yet for and they are shimed to the angle is has now. driveline is made with a wj yoke so even at max droop she doesnt bind at all.
got 1/4 plate steel to build a pinon slider and some 1/4 square stock for a front diff skid. also some 1/8 plate on the bottom of the nine inch when i have time and access to a welder to fab. brother has the welder back for a bit.
To behonest I need a break to enjoy just driving it again. With the streched wheel base she is alot more stable front does push a tad in the corners but over all im actually very pleased with how it does. Put on 100 miles or so far and getting better gas milage than before. thought that added weight would be noticeable but it isnt she actually has a little better low end with the alluminum wheels.
 
Well the other day I got my Grizzly locker installed. While I had the axle apart I noticed the cap bolts were only grade 5. Also to me it didn't seem like there were enough tread into the cast center section.

ahete5a7.jpg


So onto the infonet I went, in search of 7/16-14 grade 8 double ended studs. I found them here http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/
etevu6y5.jpg


My plan was to get as much thread engagement into the cast part of the center as possible. It ended up with 11/2".
I did have to cut two treads off each stud to make this happen.

Before
pajy8ygy.jpg

And after
2etanemu.jpg


Everything installed
ny9a3aja.jpg


I was going to use 12 point ARP flange nuts. But after talking with the fastener vendor he told me not to waste my money. So he set me up with extra thick grade 8 frame washers and plain old grade 8 hex nuts in yellow zinc coating. he recommend the zinc coating over black oxide because they yealed a truer (sp?) torque. I also used liquid tread locker on both ends of the fastener. He told me that it is actually rated to be a tread lube while still in liqued form.

I know this is probably ridiculous for a Dana 30, But I figure it won't hurt ether. I'm this deep in the turd so I may as well keep polishing.

I just Installed axles in my front, after taking everything out to look over the locker, on the install I snapped one of the cap bolts at 50lbs on the torque wrench. Luckily I was able to spin the broken bolt piece right out. Next move was gold grade 8 bolts. Went right together with no issues. ( I hate issues ):smsoap:
 
I just Installed axles in my front, after taking everything out to look over the locker, on the install I snapped one of the cap bolts at 50lbs on the torque wrench. Luckily I was able to spin the broken bolt piece right out. Next move was gold grade 8 bolts. Went right together with no issues. ( I hate issues ):smsoap:

50lbs is to much. I searched all over and found several publications that stated 52lbs was expectable but didn't state if that was into cast or not. So I just did what ARP recommended and stuck with what was in my factory manual 45ftlbs.
 
That and it may also be the pickup coil in the distributor. I did a bunch of research about this when my cps took a crap then not long the pickup coil died. The consensus was they should be replaced as a pair. And what ever you do DON'T buy an aftermarket set they will not last. Spent the little bit of extra coin an buy them from Jeep.
 
while heading home last night I hit this at 55mph while it was alive. its hard to tell but its was spike around 150lbs estimate
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only bent the rear fender thank god for 35s. deer hit front tire instead of front then hit the rear fender and went under the jeep.
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trust me I would have taken it if it wasnt illegal. would have been real nice we didnt even get to go hunting this year

yeah its bad juju I know. would be nice tough. not even the jails or missions get these anymore. such a shame :lickout:

Bronze.
 
yeah its bad juju I know. would be nice tough. not even the jails or missions get these anymore. such a shame :lickout:

Bronze.

Ya why don't they? Over on the east coast/south they do it with all the hogs they catch.



In other news, was able to get a CPS and it started!!!! Then died...... Started tugging wires and boringDave was right, it's the pickup coil. Each slight tug of the wire to the distributor and the engine started coughing/stalling. Dang it!!! I hate stupid electrical issues

Is it safe to just replace the pick up coil or does the failing of the pick up coil have to do something about the distributor?
 
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