Travel Trailer Question

[1988 Cherokoo]

Looked at a travel trailer today, is cheap and 16 feet long.

This is my first travel trailer ever that I am buying, its cheap I understand that it will have a few issues. I am moving out of a house and into this travel trailer for a good 6 months to a year.

The vehicle I am using is a 4 door 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L inline 6 with the automatic transmission and a fulltime 4wd, part time 4wd, N, and 2wd transfer case.

I have done some reading up on it, people say 20 feet is the max to go on a Jeep XJ, I understand, 16 feet is good for me. I want to gut it in stages and redo it completely.

I bought a

travel hitch from the junk yard for $16

transmission cooler with one hose for $20, just need the other hose because I couldnt get the darn thing off the junk yard ZJ.

12M tap+die to clean out the rust on metal backing plate and re-align threads. $20

10 Bolts with washer, 10 grade (their black, and salesman said their stronger then 8 grade) $11

red thread locker $6



Questions

Do I need a oil cooler as well?

What do I torque the bolts to?

How do I get the rear bumper off?


4 pole wiring - is each wire for like right light to right light, left light to left light, ground then whats the other one. I need the corresponding wire colors as well, I think green are the 2 lights, then there is brake and hazard.

Any other helpful tips for a guy about to live on the city streets in a travel trailer?
Like when I gut it do I use sound deadening materials and install new insulation, are their stores I can go that sell cheap travel trailer parts?

 

[old_man]

In order to run the turn signal wiring you need an electronic adapter you can get at any parts store for around $20.

 

[stewie]

i have towed a 20' travel trailer with my 99 dodge ram 1500. it sucked even with that truck. i tow a little pop up tent trailer with my 95 xj and it sucks through the mountains.

IF your going to tow the travel trailer with the xj you MUST use a electric brake controller in the xj. there is no way that the xjs brakes can safely stop the jeep and 16' trailer at normal operating speeds safely. the brake controller will most likely have to be spliced into the xjs wiring (but its really easy to do) and will wire up with a 7 pole rv plug. a load equalizing hitch would also be nearly mandatory.

 

[Boatwrench]

IF your going to tow the travel trailer with the xj you MUST use a electric brake controller in the xj. there is no way that the xjs brakes can safely stop the jeep and 16' trailer at normal operating speeds safely. the brake controller will most likely have to be spliced into the xjs wiring (but its really easy to do) and will wire up with a 7 pole rv plug. a load equalizing hitch would also be nearly mandatory.

Rightseatsis and I purchased a used travel trailer and got an education the hard way.

As Stewie has pointed out, electric brakes & equalizer hitch to go with your reciever is a must. If you don't the front of the XJ will be to light and your steering and our safety will be compromised. Think about sway control bar also. These set-ups are $700-$1K new but there are deals on craigslist.

If you are living in it full time...make sure it has BOTH a black water AND gray water tanks. Ground dumping of gray water has been illegal in most states since the early eighties. IF it doesn't have a gray water tank there are two things you can do. Get a portable wheeled tank, they are blue for some odd reason, and dump the gray water into that or look for a different trailer. Those portable tanks are a PITA.

Battery isolation diode, do NOT let the trailer drain the XJ starting battery.

The books are older, but Woodall's publishes a book on restoring travel trailers and includes standards an codes to follow. It was like $25 but a great investment.


TIP> Drain the waste system. Purchase some toilet chemical from an RV store, add to the waste tank by pouring into the toilet. All of it. Add some fresh water, let soak and drive around a bit. This breaks up waste and paper clods. Drain the waste tank and use chemical as directed.

TIP> Drain the fresh water tank, but two gls of clorox and pour into the fresh water tank, fill the tank 1/4-1/3 full with fresh water. Tow the trailer around for a bit. Run the clorox throufgh the fresh water system and into the waste tanks. Fill the fresh water tank 1/4 to 1/3 full with clean water (no bleach), and repeat above step.

TIP> The hot water heater will be calcified, before purchasing a new one, try this to get by. Remove the heater and pour white vinegar into it, lots of white vinegar. Let it set awhile, at least overnight. Drain it, flush it with a garden hose, reinstall it and then flush it with clean water from the O/B system.

Have fun.

 

[1988 Cherokoo]

This is making me very nervous now, I was totally stoked on the idea of towing a smaller trailer with my XJ.

Whats the difference between a levling hitch and a regular hitch?
Is it just an add-on, with those two bars going over to travel trailer? Whats the cost on that?
I am just using it for city driving, no country driving yet, so brake controller would be an asset, does that mean I have to install brakes on the trailer if it doesnt have them?

I have read I can install a different brake booster that will increase my braking power, and the trans cooler is easy to install.

 

[1988 Cherokoo]

Read up on the equalizer, I think I will go with it down the road when I hit the open road or as soon as I get the cash. Just wondering how much the product is, of course I will be istalling it myself. If its cheap, like $50-$100 will buy it right away for safety sake. If its more, it will have to wait. I cant see how this product puts the weight on both axles and all 4 wheels. I understand the 2 bars probably flex and hook up making it less wobbly side to side (Like heavy wind) but as for the weight of the travel trailer to the truck, its still hooked up to the hitch.

This thing is $500, this will have to wait

Unless it pops the back of the vehicle up, can those bars really do that?

Still more work required, here is what I plan

I will be doing the bastard pack on the rear leafs to get it up higher. I know my stock ones are shot.

I got the V8 coil springs, and will get the 2" spacer for the front.

Trans Cooler - already got

double-diaphram brake boosters - For the '95 and '96 (some mods required) model years the bigger double-diaphragm boosters were used, and also --although with a different part number-- all the XJs from '97 and up. The boosters are the same for ABS and non-ABS models (again: with possibly different part numbers, though). If I find the parts in the yard, it will be done.

Down the road (within 6 months) will get the Ford 8.8 with disc brake swap.

New brake pads - easy

 

[hubs97xj]

Does the trailer have brakes?

 

[1988 Cherokoo]

I got no idea if it had brakes, never crossed my mind to ask or look. I think its going to be to heavy for my cherokee. Want to start off light, going to go with a Van Trailer, and convert it. Looking into those raised roof deals and maybe extending it front and rear to get a few extra feet out of it. Right now I measured most of the vans in the yard are just under 10 feet long and 6.5 feet wide. Then when I move into an apartment I can use the thing as a regular trailer.

I am a little concerned about a 16 foot travel trailer weight tearing up my decent little 88 XJ. It will be a fun project to convert the van back trailer into a camper.

Going to buy a 3k btu coleman tent heater, 2 burner coleman stove, exhaust fan, carpet, wood and screws and see where it leads.

 

[Motornoggin]

Just to clarify something, yes, the weight distribution bars DO transfer weight off of the ball and toward the front of the tow vehicle. The correct term is weight distribution. Equalizer is a brand name. It is a great system, but a w/d hitch with a friction sway control can be had for a lot less than $500

 

[lazyxj]

My brother has a 16' Casita trailer and tows it with a Liberty.
http://www.casitatraveltrailers.com/
It's short, lightweight and would be perfect for one person.

Before you buy any used RV, make sure every appliance is tested and the walls and ceiling checked for rot. It quickly gets expensive fixing things.

 

[RCP Phx]

Going to buy a 3k btu coleman tent heater, 2 burner coleman stove, exhaust fan, carpet, wood and screws and see where it leads.

Probably lead to a really bad story on the news!

 

[SWAMPMAN]

the question nobody is asking here is how far are you really gonna pull it and how often are you gonna be moving it.. . if i recall 95 % of alberta is flatter than my kitchen table .. are you gonna be heading to the mountains..???..

 

[SWAMPMAN]

oops i didnt see the the calgary part .. ya he's got some hills there....

 

[badron]

How much does this trailer weight is fare more important then how long it is And trailer brakes on anything over a 1000 lbs are a must by law.
I drag a 4280 anchor around all the time. With just a good hitch and T-brakes.
BUT you will need!
Slow down a LOT sooner,
Go slower in general.
Give yourself plenty of time.
Pick you rote well.
Use the slow lane and don't try to power you way up every hill. LET it downsift and let the gears pull the hill not the motor. She WILL pull a train if you just take you time and use your head.
Biggest towing problem going is they are always in a rush.
A few upgrades.
1. Good fresh brakes. Not really a upgrade your bakes should be up to spec. Towing or not. Don't forget the E-brake Just using Park may not hold on bad hills. Also a duel booster from a late model XJ will help a bit.
2 Your rad. I can't see you still having the OEM rad in a 88 but even if it's been replaced once that rad may be getting old for heavy towing. A fresh stocker would do but a 3 row can be had for just a few bucks more and will help on them long bad hills in the heat.
I pulled 3800 lb up some of the nasty hills going and had to pull over a very few times (using a 2 row rad) to let her cool. 3 mins and I was on my way again. NO blowing coolant. No steam, none of that BS you keep hearing about. Just a little idleing time.
luck

 

[joe_peters]

If you have the stock brakes you need to upgrade to the 95-96 MC and booster--your poor old single-diaphragm brake booster won't cut the mustard with that trailer pushing you.

Make sure the propane gas system is inspected and tested from one end to the other. You do want to wake up in the morning, right?

As asked above, what is the curb weight of the trailer?

What about your radiator--is it at least a 2-row core? Do you have an efan?