Trans Cooler install location and routing....

[kj139]

Also, the hose connector fittings are a bear to deal with. Is there a trick for taking these off? I've tried using the tool that is supposed to release the clips without any success.

 

[kastein]

I hate those fittings...

this is a terrible idea and you should not do it, but what I do is use a mini butane torch to heat the outside of the fitting till the plastic clip melts, then pull the sides apart and remove the bits of melty plastic. I only have to do this on the lower radiator fitting because I replace the fittings on the side of the transmission along with the lines (they are Dorman 800-714, and remove with a 7/8" wrench) so I just use a pair of lineman's pliers to cut the lines where they go into the tranny fittings.

Be careful with fire... have a fire extinguisher in your other hand... but it works.

Note that this trick will NOT work once you've used replacement Dorman lines because they have an integral metal clip instead of a plastic one.

 

[garr]

Also, the hose connector fittings are a bear to deal with. Is there a trick for taking these off? I've tried using the tool that is supposed to release the clips without any success.

Cleaning all the gunk/Dirt/sand out of the fitting with carb or brake cleaner seems to make them come apart easier.

 

[JeepFreak21]

Also, the hose connector fittings are a bear to deal with. Is there a trick for taking these off? I've tried using the tool that is supposed to release the clips without any success.

I had to push mine together, then use a screwdriver to push on the tabs, then pull the fitting apart.
Billy

 

[hubs97xj]

Hopefully I'm not hijacking, but I have a couple questions relative to the topic:

1. When you read write-ups on tranny cooler installation, the term "return line" is often used with out explicitly stating whether return to the tranny or return to the radiator is being refered to. It usually appears that return to the tranny is being referenced, but again, not explicity stated. So here is the question: Is it the rearward hose fitting on the transmission through which fluid flows into the transmission, or is it the foreward fitting through which the fluid flows into the transmission?

The forward fitting is where the fluid is pumped out of the trans. The rear fitting is where the fluid reenters the trans. If you check a parts catalog, it gets confusing, but everything I've read on here so far says that's the setup.

The book calls one of the two high pressure lines (front fitting on trans to threaded fitting on rad) a return, and the other a supply, while the low pressure line (QD on rad to rear fitting on trans) is called a supply. As to which line people refer to by saying "return"... I haven't figured that one out either. The routing for the OE cooler in the catalog didn't appear to be the same routing people typically use when installing coolers themselves. Clear as mud? I've been reading up on this, and it still doesn't make much sense. I wonder if it really makes a difference- the "right" way depends on which book, and who you're asking, or so it seems.

 

[kcjeep6]

I used a B&M Hi-Tek Cooler http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Hi...a23dc9c7674ded5d.e3eSc34RbhyRe34Pa38Ta3aMc3f0 I mounted the Cooler to the bottom side of the (in the rear center) hood . Cut a hole in the hood and mounted the fan on top of the hood. I routed the plumbing from the output side of the transmission thru the B&B cooler then thru the radiator. I installed a temperature gauge before the B&M cooler so I am reading the temperature as the fluid is leaving the transmission, I can watch the temperature drop when the fan kicks in.

 

[kj139]

I hate those fittings...

this is a terrible idea and you should not do it, but what I do is use a mini butane torch to heat the outside of the fitting till the plastic clip melts, then pull the sides apart and remove the bits of melty plastic. I only have to do this on the lower radiator fitting because I replace the fittings on the side of the transmission along with the lines (they are Dorman 800-714, and remove with a 7/8" wrench) so I just use a pair of lineman's pliers to cut the lines where they go into the tranny fittings.

Be careful with fire... have a fire extinguisher in your other hand... but it works.

Note that this trick will NOT work once you've used replacement Dorman lines because they have an integral metal clip instead of a plastic one.

Sounds good to me, thanks for the tip. I have spent hours trying to get these darned things off.

 

[DieselSJ]

Most of the BM coolers have a temp bypass valve internel that will have the fluid bypass the cooler & go back to the tranny if it is too cold.

Really? Because I've got several of their coolers and haven't seen that. Got any documentation on that? I'd like to know what temp activates the bypass.

 

[NEWYXJ]

Trans cooler at right front of front crossmember.

Trans cooler viewed from hole cut in the bottom of bumper.

puller fan at right rear of front crossmember.
(SPA-03011 SPAL 5.2" Straight Blade Pull Fan- from www.racerpartswholesale.com)

Fan control is by a 180 deg switch
cooler flow/bypass control by a 180 deg t-stat
fluid flow trans-cooler-rad-trans

 

[Rod Knee]

The forward fitting is where the fluid is pumped out of the trans. The rear fitting is where the fluid reenters the trans. If you check a parts catalog, it gets confusing, but everything I've read on here so far says that's the setup.

The book calls one of the two high pressure lines (front fitting on trans to threaded fitting on rad) a return, and the other a supply, while the low pressure line (QD on rad to rear fitting on trans) is called a supply. As to which line people refer to by saying "return"... I haven't figured that one out either. The routing for the OE cooler in the catalog didn't appear to be the same routing people typically use when installing coolers themselves. Clear as mud? I've been reading up on this, and it still doesn't make much sense. I wonder if it really makes a difference- the "right" way depends on which book, and who you're asking, or so it seems.

Thanks hubs. For those of us in Northern states/Canada, the tranny>aux cooler>rad.>tranny advocates have swayed me to their way of thinking.

 

[garr]

Really? Because I've got several of their coolers and haven't seen that. Got any documentation on that? I'd like to know what temp activates the bypass.

http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Automatic-Transmission-SuperCoolers

From B&Ms website.
"The coolers assembled with hose barb ends include a unique bypass feature allowing a controlled amount of ATF to bypass the stacked plate core when the fluid is cold."

In the installation instructions it warns against double clamping any of the hose connections, Wonder Why?

 

[stephenspann27]

I bypassed my radiator when tranny fluid ended up in my coolant. I live in Texas so it doesn't get super cold.. Most transmission shops bypass radiators after a transmission has bit the dust. They do this because there might be shavings lodged in the tranny fluid portion of the radiator...

So i'm running tranny-->cooler-->tranny

About those quick disconnects... I just cut mine off.. I'm running hose clamps with no problems.

 

[DieselSJ]

http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Automatic-Transmission-SuperCoolers

From B&Ms website.
"The coolers assembled with hose barb ends include a unique bypass feature allowing a controlled amount of ATF to bypass the stacked plate core when the fluid is cold."

In the installation instructions it warns against double clamping any of the hose connections, Wonder Why?

Thanks, I see that now.
"Controlled by viscosity, fluid is returned directly to the lube circuit through bypass openings in the stacked plate core."
In other words, it is too thick to go through the little holes that feed the rest of the cooler...

 

[dirtweazle]

For anyone wanting to take those hose lines off by the connector without using fire :explosion!!! Try cutting a piece of bendable metal long enough to go around the metal tube and about an inch long. Beer can is too thin and tin can might work but might be too thick. Bend said pice around tube and force into the female side of connector. Push all the way in with vicegrips (not crimping the line) to release the clips and pull the line out. Works real easy.

 

[kastein]

It takes a surprising amount of heat to make transmission fluid actually catch fire. Also, you can get replacement plastic clips if you so choose I simply choose to eliminate the whole blasted contraption and replace it with a couple good old fashioned hose clamps.

 

[QuillsXJ]

I picked up one of these Ultra Cools by Hayden
http://www.haydenauto.com/Featured Products-Transmission and Engine Oil Coolers/Content.aspx
It seems to be working really good so far and it was easy to install. I put mine in front of the radiator on the drivers side with the provided zip tie straps.