traction bar project progress (mock-up and fitting)

[Jeepin Jason]

NXJ, you're correct about the location of the traction bar. For best results it should be on the passenger side, but the exhaust is in the way. For some folks, that's not an issue, but for me it is, so my traction bar will be on the driver's side.

Chuck, reread what crash posted. He wasn't saying hang the shackle below the skid, but to have a bracket that came up from the skid that the shackle would then hang from (think mini-shock hoop or something).

 

[BrettM]

CRASH's proposed method is simply to get the end of the ladder bar as low as possible (without hanging below the skidplate) as this will give the best anti-squat numbers.

Another way to accomplish this would be a slip-and-twist style bar. You don't use a shackle, but instead have a piece of tube that slips inside another with a very tight fit, this allows the change in length that the shackle allows in the other method, and the tube will spin also eliminating the need for a heim or flex joint on the end.

 

[Jeepin Jason]

Another way to accomplish this would be a slip-and-twist style bar. You don't use a shackle, but instead have a piece of tube that slips inside another with a very tight fit, this allows the change in length that the shackle allows in the other method, and the tube will spin also eliminating the need for a heim or flex joint on the end.

I've discussed that style of design with some friends from other forums/email lists. Have you ever seen or heard of anyone actually using such a design for a traction bar?

 

[ChuckD]

What brett is describing sounds like it could be a steering dampener. Moves in and out and twists.

 

[JnJ]

CRASH's proposed method is simply to get the end of the ladder bar as low as possible (without hanging below the skidplate) as this will give the best anti-squat numbers.

Another way to accomplish this would be a slip-and-twist style bar. You don't use a shackle, but instead have a piece of tube that slips inside another with a very tight fit, this allows the change in length that the shackle allows in the other method, and the tube will spin also eliminating the need for a heim or flex joint on the end.

Still seems at some point it would bind, one end hard mounted and the axle stuffing/drooping.

 

[BrettM]

I've discussed that style of design with some friends from other forums/email lists. Have you ever seen or heard of anyone actually using such a design for a traction bar?

I've seen it, online several times, in person once. I think it was 2" .250 wall DOM over 1.5" .250 wall.
with a grease fitting, not sure if it was really needed.

 

[BrettM]

Still seems at some point it would bind, one end hard mounted and the axle stuffing/drooping.

yes, it would bind if solid mounted, it needs a little deflection, a poly bushing would be perfect.

 

[MaXJohnson]

CRASH's proposed method is simply to get the end of the ladder bar as low as possible (without hanging below the skidplate) as this will give the best anti-squat numbers.

Another way to accomplish this would be a slip-and-twist style bar. You don't use a shackle, but instead have a piece of tube that slips inside another with a very tight fit, this allows the change in length that the shackle allows in the other method, and the tube will spin also eliminating the need for a heim or flex joint on the end.

CRASH is referring to the location of the mounting point, not the end of the bar. With a shackle mount, the pivot on the chassis side of the mount determines AS, not the end of the bar.

Regarding the use of a slip joint rather than a swinging shackle, IMO, no matter how well you grease it, I wouldn't trust the joint to slip freely when you've got your foot in it and you're in low range, clawing your way up some boulders. The slip joint would be good in rotation to free up axle articulation, but never as free as a shackle in the slip direction.

I have a rubber joint screwed into the front of my bar with a lock nut that can be loosened when off-road. I don't always remember to break the lock nut loose and consequently ripped the crap out of my axle mount. Jason's is way beefier. Tying it into a full width truss across the axle would be primo.