Torque Converter Tech...

[geeaea]

Well, that "seems out of whack" to me! Are you telling me it is normal that I can't use my AC when it gets hot outside, and I have to baby it to keep it in the 210 to 220 range! I don't think so. I will probably go with a trans cooler, but I don't think that willl help my motor cooling one bit, as heat will just be dumped straight to the radiator.

My son's 2000 sits routinely @ 210 ..about 5+° higher than my Wranglers. My Wranglers have[i/] been sitting over the 210F mark in hot weather...his Cherokee a little higher. It wouldn't surprise me to see it go higher with decent grades and with the AC on.

This isn't to say that there isn't a correctable problem that will shave off 5-10F and make you feel better.

My concern would be the semi long term fatigue on the trans fluid.

 

[Blue XJ]

Interesting... did you just re-adjust it or completely replace it?

I was able to just readjust it. I swapped out my brake booster from my 90 to a newer one and didn't realize the switch was there. There is the easy one to see, then there is this one, its way up there on the front side of the pedal lever thing. Its white plastic and is completely threaded, I was able to just turn it out a few turns and it worked again.

I got lucky though, I have the scan tool for the Renix Jeeps, it displays what position that switch is in, so it made it very easy to adjust properly.

 

[jrowell]

My son's 2000 sits routinely @ 210 ..about 5+° higher than my Wranglers. My Wranglers have[i/] been sitting over the 210F mark in hot weather...his Cherokee a little higher. It wouldn't surprise me to see it go higher with decent grades and with the AC on.

This isn't to say that there isn't a correctable problem that will shave off 5-10F and make you feel better.

My concern would be the semi long term fatigue on the trans fluid.

My temps are with the AC off! Turning it on will send it up to 250+ Quick!
I get that XJ's run hot. Really, I get it. Mine is running WAY TOO hot. This isn't an issue where I'm uncomfortable with it running at 210 to 220. It is flat ass overheating. I have to sweat like a pig and baby the hell out of it just to keep it below 230... If I even look at the AC switch it adds 10 degrees! If I give it more than 3/4 of the skinny pedal it shoots to 250+ If I hit a SLIGHT grade at 60mph it will shoot to 230+
THIS IS NOT NORMAL!

 

[jrowell]

I was able to just readjust it. I swapped out my brake booster from my 90 to a newer one and didn't realize the switch was there. There is the easy one to see, then there is this one, its way up there on the front side of the pedal lever thing. Its white plastic and is completely threaded, I was able to just turn it out a few turns and it worked again.

I got lucky though, I have the scan tool for the Renix Jeeps, it displays what position that switch is in, so it made it very easy to adjust properly.

I'll have to dig around up there and see. I also swapped my booster, but I don't remember a switch like that. I will check it out tonight. thanks.

 

[ChevelleSSLS6]

for engine cooling... check out http://go.jeep-xj.info/ and look under cooling modifications.

 

[jrowell]

for engine cooling... check out http://go.jeep-xj.info/ and look under cooling modifications.

That's a good link, but my overheating issues are NOT due to my cooling system. I believe they are transmission related.
Thanks.

 

[jrowell]

I was able to just readjust it. I swapped out my brake booster from my 90 to a newer one and didn't realize the switch was there. There is the easy one to see, then there is this one, its way up there on the front side of the pedal lever thing. Its white plastic and is completely threaded, I was able to just turn it out a few turns and it worked again.

I got lucky though, I have the scan tool for the Renix Jeeps, it displays what position that switch is in, so it made it very easy to adjust properly.

Went home at lunch and felt around up there. Found the switch you are talking about. I'll have to play around with it tonight to see if I can get it to work. It alomost fell out in my hand, so I do not think it was adjusted in to far. I wonder if it is working...

 

[Slo-Sho]

The button on the switch is supposed to be fully depressed by the brake pedal arm when your foot is off the brake.

 

[jrowell]

The button on the switch is supposed to be fully depressed by the brake pedal arm when your foot is off the brake.

That makes sense, Your probably right. This is looking promising.

 

[dutchjeep]

Went home at lunch and felt around up there. Found the switch you are talking about. I'll have to play around with it tonight to see if I can get it to work. It alomost fell out in my hand, so I do not think it was adjusted in to far. I wonder if it is working...

On my 1992 the switch is not threaded but ribbled. If the switch fell out that could indicate that the ribbles are worn (I had the same) and you may need to fix or replace. If the ribbles are ok, put in place correctly and measure resistance over the switch to check it actually works. Good luck!

 

[Blaine B.]

While driving, if you ever so slightly apply pressure to the brake pedal (just enough to make the brake lights go on) you can unlock the torque converter and ensure it is working. This procedure best works if you are cruising along in overdrive

 

[jrowell]

Well, my search continues. Got home after 9pm last night and wanted to see if threading that brake switch in would make a difference. It did, but not the one I wanted. Turned the key on and saw a little flash of light from under the dash. The 7.5 "trans" fuse blew. Dropped in a 15amp fuse that I had handy and... it blew as soon as I turned the key on. Anyone know what this fuse does? The Jeep drives just like before. Shifts fine, just no TQ lock-up. I also noticed the Power/Comfort switch does not light up.

Gettin hot and even more frustrated!
Jeremy

 

[Blue XJ]

Went home at lunch and felt around up there. Found the switch you are talking about. I'll have to play around with it tonight to see if I can get it to work. It alomost fell out in my hand, so I do not think it was adjusted in to far. I wonder if it is working...

I would imagine it still works, it just an normal open close switch, so unless its sticking, you should be ok. I think on mine I actually had to lengthen the button on it as well, since the new booster rod was in a different spot when the brakes were off. I just drilled a hole in the end of it and threaded a small screw into it.


Good luck

 

[imfrankyj]

I think you are on to somethign here about the overheating due to the tc not locking. I was having the same trouble with over heating and I wired my trans up so I run it manually including the TC lock. I dont think it was licking before and now I run pretty cool even with the AC on. If I were you I would find the wire for Solinoid 3 on the trans and run a switch with power to it so that you can lock it when ever you want. just dont let it say locked when your car might shift to reduct the shock on your trans.

 

[jrowell]

I think you are on to somethign here about the overheating due to the tc not locking. I was having the same trouble with over heating and I wired my trans up so I run it manually including the TC lock. I dont think it was licking before and now I run pretty cool even with the AC on. If I were you I would find the wire for Solinoid 3 on the trans and run a switch with power to it so that you can lock it when ever you want. just dont let it say locked when your car might shift to reduct the shock on your trans.

I had brett's shifter wired in with the manual TC lock, and it still would not lock. I could see the volt meter on a guage move a little, but no rpm change and I could not feel it lock-up. Now I'm trying to track down why the Fuse is popping in another thread. This might be the cause of the TC not locking. I'm just not sure.