• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Top engine to tranny bolts...

T

tommy54

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Wisconsin
What size are the bolts on the top of the engine? I know that they are a special type of external torx, but I've taken these apart before and I don't have the "proper" socket. When I did them before the engine and trans were out of the Jeep, this time they aren't, so it's hard to tell what fits properly. I thought a 12 point 3/8's would do it, but I don't want to strip anything out since I'm using about 3 feet of extensions to get there. Any tips?
 
I can't remember if it's E10 or E12. Somebody will chime in.

But, I'll offer this advice: Get those 2 suckers loose before any other engine to trans bolts or you'll have a fight on your hands.
 
Will a 12 point socket work? The last time I did this I must have used a 12 point, because I don't own the proper one. I also live a long way from anywhere that would sell one.
 
Just ran out to the garage to check. I never put those crappy bolts back in. I use hex headed bolts. It's in fact an E12, but a 3/8" 12 point socket looks like it would work.
 
ive always used 3/8 6pt socket without out issue only time i used the e12 socket i stripped the bolt
 
You can buy the correct socket at an auto parts store for not much money, and then you'll never have to fudge it again.

Sears (and some others, Kobalt I think) has a newfangled socket design that claims to work on everything from square to external torx, splines, etc. One of those would likely work, but I don't know if they sell them individually. I gave a set to my son for Christmas but he hasn't reported back on how well they work.

Finally, you can, if you weld, take the head off a Torx bolt, and weld that into the end of a junk socket, and use that. I did this once when I had no proper socket and it was too late to go out for one. My recollection is that I used a T-55.

I'll look later (its fricken cold outside) and see if I can find my socket and get the proper size number off it.
 
I think sears has the socket for like 11 bucks.

A lot of people hate them, but I have always put them back in because I never think far enough ahead to buy replacements before starting the trans swap. And they are flange head, so I just put em back...
 
These dang bolts are going to kill me. I can't get a 12 point 3/8's to grip. Feels like it goes on, but doesn't grip when I turn it. No luck with 6 point 3/8's. Also tried 6 and 12 point 9 and 10mm. My sockets are all craftsman. It doesn't help that I can't see what I'm doing, and I can barely feel what's going on because it's cold out.
I'm tempted to drop the trans a couple inches, but then I've got to deal with disconnecting linkage, crossmember and hoping no bolts break. The one on the passenger side seems to be even harder to get to, I've been spending my time on the driver side since it's easier to get my hand up there.
Any other ideas? Is it crazy to just cut a hole in the sheet metal to get access and tack it back in later? Seems like that wouldn't take as long as dropping the tranny or continuing to try to be a contortionist.
 
I was just fighting them last week and only way i got mine out was the E12 socket. I got the passenger side loose last time with the box end of a wrench and a pry bar keeping it on the bolt head, it's a lot easier with a buddy. Like everyone else said just go buy the socket and while you are at it buy new bolts and junk the old ones.
 
Pick up the right sockets.

Could you get to the better if you lowered the cross member and the rear of the trans any or would it hit the firewall?
 
muddiexj- I know what you're talking about with the box wrench. Did you use a 10mm? That seemed the closest fit. Did you go in from the top with the box wrench? It was really close but I didn't want to strip it out with the wrench. I'm ready to try anything after wasting probably 4 hours on these two bolts.

lowrange2: I think I could get a bit more access if I dropped the crossmember, but then I have to deal with all the linkage and jacking up the frame of the jeep so I'd still have room for me under there. Then I'd have to lower the whole thing down again to get the engine out.

I guess I'm just annoyed at the whole situation. I'm going to try the wrench idea some more. I know that one of my sockets fit on these bolts because I've done a couple of them before, but always out of the jeep. The driver side actually seems more accessible with a wrench than the passenger side. With a special offset wrench they would be pretty easy to get out from above.
 
I won. I ended up using a craftsman 10mm wrench from above for both driver and passenger side bolts. I coupled it with another wrench for more leverage. I got a little lucky because the 10mm isn't the ideal size. Mine had been taken out at some point and someone goobered up the driver side bolt, I believe that is why I couldn't get the 3/8" socket to grab at all. To put closure to this thread I will tell you what I now know.

-3/8" 12 point craftsman sockets are a very good fit, but make sure that the socket is all the way on the bolt. 10mm works but it isn't as tight of a fit as a 3/8". The 12 point socket looks like a better bet than the 6 point 3/8".

-Two people would make the job easier. One person under the jeep with ratchet and extensions, and one person looking down from the top to tell you that your socket is on all the way.

This sure makes changing the CPS seem like a piece of cake.
 
Yep. no need to mess with them. I'm sure someone else will wonder about this, and as long as you get the socket on all the way, a 3/8" 12 point will work.

I got mine out with a 10mm wrench that was a bit sloppy, and the 3/8" is a much, much more snug fit.

I live a good hour from the nearest place that would sell the proper socket, so add up the time driving, cost of gas and the tool, and the 3/8" socket in your toolbox starts to look pretty good. If you have access to the e12, by all means use it, but if you're looking for a way around it, here you go.
 
xcm said:
If you put any socket on there besides a e-12 inverted torx, you deserve all the frustration thats coming your way...
Click to expand...
I kinda have to agree... when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail, but that doesn't mean it is one.

Takes me less than 30 seconds to get each one out with the right tool, working alone. And being able/willing to reuse them saves me a couple bucks per jeep I do this on, which has more than paid for the socket even if you disregard the frustration/time spent value.

Using the wrong tool can work in this case, but why bother? The right tool is cheap.
 
1st transmission swap I cheaped out and ended up rounding one of the nuts off. Think we took turns under the jeep with a dremel to get it off.

2nd trans swap I bought a strip of the "reverse torx" from Autozone. Not a problem getting it out and back in.

Creativity and thinking outside the box can go a long way. It can also go the LONGER way. :explosion
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Head Gasket replacement (first time opening up an engine)
Replies
4
Views
131
Ol Blue
O
my2monkeys
aw4 pump oring replacement?
Replies
1
Views
88
RCP Phx
R
Anak
How to Slot the CPS
Replies
4
Views
278
Evan03
E
N
New Engine is Hard to Start
Replies
0
Views
62
NGThomas
N
O
0331 Strikes Again...?
Replies
11
Views
392
Ol Blue
O
Back
Top