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through the floor Q's

anyone have any pics of how you mounted your shocks to the axle? just use the stock location or?? ive heard that when you move your shock mounts to the top/front/back of your axle your pinion angle isnt correct for compensating of accelerating/decelerating.. ??
 
anyone have any pics of how you mounted your shocks to the axle? just use the stock location or?? ive heard that when you move your shock mounts to the top/front/back of your axle your pinion angle isnt correct for compensating of accelerating/decelerating.. ??


Like this... It was just mocked up here, I welded it when everything else was welded.

DSC00273.jpg
 
i was thinking i could get some of the rubber covers that covers the shifter stick in the cab of a manual.. just cut a hole in the top and gorilla glue the bottom to the floor.
 
anyone have any pics of how you mounted your shocks to the axle? just use the stock location or?? ive heard that when you move your shock mounts to the top/front/back of your axle your pinion angle isnt correct for compensating of accelerating/decelerating.. ??

here is a pic of the lower mounts I did
IMG_0750.jpg
 
or cut the pieces that connect the bottom part to the top and it will free float around while the top part still grips the shock.. if im explaining that right..
 
Like this... It was just mocked up here, I welded it when everything else was welded.

DSC00273.jpg
What about axle wrap? I read that a configuration of 1 shock in front of the tube and the other behind the tube helps control wrap, thoughts?

Also, any reason everyone in this thread has the bolt running parallel to the axle, rather than perpendicular?
 
What about axle wrap? I read that a configuration of 1 shock in front of the tube and the other behind the tube helps control wrap, thoughts?

Also, any reason everyone in this thread has the bolt running parallel to the axle, rather than perpendicular?


I have no axle wrap with my Deavers....
 
Bumping an old thread so as to not clutter with new ones on the same subject.

Do any of you have a picture looking up from the axle of the shock going into the jeep? I took a look at mine for a bit (i want to mount the shock on the spring plate) and it seems like there isnt much room to work with between the wheel-well itself and the unibody frame rail there for a shock to go through..and it may have to be on a bit of an inward canted angle to accomplish it...which seems like it could be odd fitment to me, and potentially will be kissing the frame..ive never seen anyone cut up the wheel-well at all to get the shock through, so this is why i ask.

also, i assume the shock has more fore and aft motion moreso than side-side motion, so perhaps a slightly elongated hole for the shock is logical in the floor? no real way for me to know how much they move...figure i'd ask before doing the good ol 'guess check and revise' tactic, haha

ALSO, i have seen on more than one occasion guys mounting their shoicks on the spring plate with the orientation of the bushing/bolt parallel with the axle as opposed to the stock direction of perpendicular..reasoning? (2 examples in this thread)
 
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it seems like there isnt much room to work with between the wheel-well itself and the unibody frame rail there for a shock to go through..and it may have to be on a bit of an inward canted angle to accomplish it...which seems like it could be odd fitment to me, and potentially will be kissing the frame..ive never seen anyone cut up the wheel-well at all to get the shock through, so this is why i ask.

also, i assume the shock has more fore and aft motion moreso than side-side motion, so perhaps a slightly elongated hole for the shock is logical in the floor?
This is exactly why my floors are peeling up next to the frame rail. I didn't take into account the side to side motion of the shocks, only fore/aft. i left 2" in front and 2" behind the shock, no problems there. there is 3/4" on the outside (next to the fenderwell) and 1/2" on the inside (next to the frame rail). the inside is the only area that hits. the Filars cut thier inner fenderwell to run the shock in a better position, as well as many others. someone on this board did a really clean job and actually cut the section of the fenderwell and welded in a curved piece of metal to go around it to close the fenderwell back off. remember if you cut into the fenderwell anything kicked up by the tires is going to go right inside the jeep (mud, dust, rocks, etc). Pics at the end of this post.

no real way for me to know how much they move...figure i'd ask before doing the good ol 'guess check and revise' tactic, haha

thats a tough one. you cant really know until you know where and how high you are mounting the top of the shock. its going to pivot on that point and the more it is in front or behind the center line (straight up) the more it is going to pivot on that upper mount.

hope this helps. Here is a pic of the filars where the bypass shock is through the fender well, as well as a couple pics of my setup.

Parker1.jpg


side view from outside
CIMG3941.jpg


IM001197.jpg


IM001198.jpg


that last one is kind of a crappy pic but you can see how close it was to the shock body. on the way home from getting the hoop welded in it dented up all four sides of that hole... just driving on the street.

ill try to get a better pic of what it looks like now, that area is really beat up now. My Jeep isn't here or I would go out and snap a pic right now.

and before anyone give me shit for the single shear mount .!. :D .!. it is what it is. its a 5/8s grade 8 bolt and its mounted to a solid piece of billet round stock drilled out and welded all the way around on both sides. thats the only part of the entire hoop that hasnt moved, lol. the legs have deformed (i think from the floor and frame rails being tweaked) and the welds are cracking on the underside of the braces. No big deal though, everything will be in a new body in a month or so :D

hope this helps ya out a bit in your decision bud :cheers:
 
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