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Throttle position sensor - Voltage on output wire

6 quarts -- Really?

I put 5 in and am in between the full and add marks on the stick -- Maybe i don't have a proper Cherokee dipstick?

I thought about the fuel in the oil thing -- might explain why I seem to be losing fuel into never never land -- I've put 10 gallons of fuel in this jeep and still have never driven it -- If I have 4 hours run time on it total thats a lot considering how it runs -- right now the guage is at empty and the light is on

More than likely my fuel gauge is bad or whatever wiring issue I have is contributing to the funky fuel lever readings

I specifically checked the oil for fuel smell -- Nothing -- I will certainly keep an eye on my oil

If I put another quart of oil in this thing I will be way above full on the dipstick -- now I gotta figure out what the proper length dipstick is for a 2000 jeep cherokee
 
And forgot to add todays findings --

Removed and cleaned throttle body -- wasn't very dirty -- removed all sensors and cleaned good with throttle body cleaner, a toothbrush and some rags -- It's sparkly on the inside now and made sure all sensors sealed on reinstallation -- NO change in the way it runs

It runs OK when cold -- Idles at 800 rpms or so -- once it gets to operating temp about 200 degrees it starts to idle very low and cough and spit - drops to 300 or 400 rpm -- stomp the throttle and let go and it dies when it returns to idle

I can hear backfiring thru the air intake -- popping noises when you try and get on the throttle -- RPMs come up but definite popping noises in the airbox when throttle is 1st applied

I also have some sort of issue with the electric cooling fan -- It has never worked so today I put 12 volts to it directly at the wiring connector -- Fan came to life -- squeaked a little but it works

So now I'm testing what is going on -- Have power at the PDC fuse -- one of the big ones -- The relay also kicks on -- Have 12 volts at both the common and the coil terminals -- pull the relay and you can feel/hear it click on -- But no power at the plug for the fan -- Nothing on either terminal also checked with a separate ground -- funny thing is - if you unplug the relay and plug it back in the fan moves -- just a little but doesn't run -- It gets power for a split second then stops? -- Maybe some sort of protection in the pcm from burning out?

I'm really beginning to think I have broken wires that I just don't see -- I'll do some testing with the Ohm meter to see what I can find but broken wiring s starting to really look like the culprit -- It would explain a lot

Good news is no P0122 code today either -- seems the low voltage for TPS has been cured with a TPS change and computer reset
 
so your not getting any codes for tps now. but still running bad? did the 2000 have a distributor? if not maybe the cam sensor needs to be indexed. does it drive ok or still sputtery too?
 
Bobbie said:
I have seen spark plugs cause a miss after they warm up.
Click to expand...


I guess this would be the 3rd set of plugs in it now -- the originals it came with where some sort of iridium -- switched to champions and it ran better

Just a week ago I switched out to ngk -- they have 2 hours on them tops



90xj06 said:
so your not getting any codes for tps now. but still running bad? did the 2000 have a distributor? if not maybe the cam sensor needs to be indexed. does it drive ok or still sputtery too?
Click to expand...

No codes at the moment -- no distributor -- haven't driven it on the road, just around yard and it stalls once it's warm and you let off the gas to make a turn


Exhaust smells funny -- I'm beginning to wonder if the 3rd cat is playing into this

It's a Cali emission vehicle -- I changed the 2 pre-cats but never touched the 3rd -- I think I'm gonna open the exhaust and see if it changes anything other than sound

I also did some reading -- probably have OK cooling fan wiring -- didn't realize the PCM sends a ground signal to the relay to turn it on -- power is constant at coil terminal on relay -- PCM probably wasn't calling for fan to run
 
Ok, you are getting close to a fix i think.The exhaust smell may be the seafome and the miss maybe carbon broke lose and stuck in one of the plugs.Did you check the plugs gaps? Also not being able to put it on the road and drive it like your going to a fire my still have carbon and water in the fuel.Nothing to lose to check plugs.
 
at least on the renix era jeeps the cooling fan is enabled by a temperature switch on the radiator and the ecu when the a/c is on. the newer ones id guess the ecu controls the fan. with the stumbling you say it runs great cold. and then starts to act up? can you post data from the data scanner you have? a cold one when its running good to a warm one when it stumbles? also does your scanner show pending codes?
 
I wouldn't say it runs great cold just the idle is higher and it runs considerably better when cold -- when warm it runs terrible and struggles to keep running because of such low rpm

What kind of data would be helpful -- the scanner gives me live data but I can't save it unless I pay for the app so I'd have to figure that out...
 
Bobbie said:
Ok, you are getting close to a fix i think.The exhaust smell may be the seafome and the miss maybe carbon broke lose and stuck in one of the plugs.Did you check the plugs gaps? Also not being able to put it on the road and drive it like your going to a fire my still have carbon and water in the fuel.Nothing to lose to check plugs.
Click to expand...



Also if you check the plugs it would be a good time to check compression
 
OK took out the torch tonite and cut the bolts out of the flanges for the 3rd catalytic converter -- definitely doing better -- I'm pretty sure the popping thru the air intake is gone although it's harder to hear with the open exhaust

I did get some new codes -- Jeep was idling -- Ok still not perfect -- hanging around 650 rpm

As it was idling it stumbled, almost stalled and threw a P0122 and P1297 -- I cleared them but only the P0122 code would clear

I'm thinking it's time for a compression check -- I've been avoiding it -- From what I can tell its the original head with 225,000 miles on it -- It's not a TUPY

I'm still not running right and I still have the glowing bank 2 precat at idle -- something isn't right with fuel to be burning in the cat like that
 
90xj06 said:
can you cheat and take a screenshot? if you can get temp sensors timing map injector pulse and if possible misfire counters.
Click to expand...


My scanner doesn't do injector pulse or misfire -- I can do timing advance, map sensor and coolant and intake air temp -- I'll have to bring one of my kids to help me figure out how to get the data in a place I can post it -- maybe even take video of the iPad screen while running the live data
 
1297 is map sensor -- No change in intake manifold pressure

I had this before and found a vacuum leak in a hose which I repaired and that cleared the code

I did just pull the map sensor when I cleaned the throttle body -- wonder if I broke the connector hose and didn't notice -- I'll check it out tomorrow for sure
 
So after this thread got me thinking again about what could be causing issues on my own jeep, which is a 98 though, I pulled the connector off my MAP last night. It ran the same at idle but when I revved it would cut out a bit first but then rev fine. But when it idled back down it would either stall or want to.
 
pulling the wire on the tps usually does not show anything at idle. if you pull the hose from the map most times it will start to stumble really bad and stall. and i would suspect the same will happen if you pull the map plug. but it may run of a "limp mode" guess and just run bad.
 
Pull the head and do a valve job.Then when it starts smoking really bad,pull the engine and rebuild it for it has to much back pressure. Thinking out Loud
 
Bobbie said:
Pull the head and do a valve job.Then when it starts smoking really bad,pull the engine and rebuild it for it has to much back pressure. Thinking out Loud
Click to expand...


I'm not too far from doing this -- I've been avoiding the compression check but I know it's inevitable


Today I got a hold of another throttle body from a friend -- had all the sensors with it -- Tried out the sensors -- No change -- it's not the IAC,TPS or MAP sensors themselves
 
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