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Thought i'd share the new rig..

there isnt anything wrong with the 8.25. I was simply saying the 44a, even trussed isnt any better than one of those, so why bother with it. No one would run anything less than an 8.25 in their XJ, so why do it to a ZJ? I would look into the 8.25 or 8.8 swap(this b/c youll keep the discs and not have to pay more for it)
 
there isnt anything wrong with the 8.25. I was simply saying the 44a, even trussed isnt any better than one of those, so why bother with it. No one would run anything less than an 8.25 in their XJ, so why do it to a ZJ? I would look into the 8.25 or 8.8 swap(this b/c youll keep the discs and not have to pay more for it)

I follow ya. I was planning to use the ZJ's discs and brackets.

I like Bills idea on the dimpling and Loctite, if that doesnt work i guess i'll source a replacement housing or another axle.
 
LOL.. and mine.

I didnt think of the dimpling and Loctite idea either. So, i'll need to order a new bearing for that side.
Haha, nice!

At least the ABS headache is out of the way. Yup, the locktite 609 and 660 stuff works really well for things you never want coming back apart easily. I think even they advertise it specifically for spun bearings and things of that nature (at least the 660 version). I know those two are designed for retaining cylindrical parts (not threaded).
 
there isnt anything wrong with the 8.25. I was simply saying the 44a, even trussed isnt any better than one of those, so why bother with it. No one would run anything less than an 8.25 in their XJ, so why do it to a ZJ? I would look into the 8.25 or 8.8 swap(this b/c youll keep the discs and not have to pay more for it)
Then he can come get my 8.8 geared with disks ... I think I'm too broke to have it fully modded for my XJ.
 
:thumbup:




On the VIC.. does anything actually indicate along the sides of it? Or just in the diagram of the vehicle? I thought i could mount my altimeter along side if it didnt onscure anything important.

I think the vic is the dumbest thing possibly ever invented haha , it shows all kinds of messges about low washer, coolant overflow sensor, tail light out, perfom service etc etc. so basically nothing important. I pulled another one from the yard recently & hope its more quiet, but I like having a cherokee without it.
 
I think the vic is the dumbest thing possibly ever invented haha , it shows all kinds of messges about low washer, coolant overflow sensor, tail light out, perfom service etc etc. so basically nothing important. I pulled another one from the yard recently & hope its more quiet, but I like having a cherokee without it.

Thats nice... but you didnt answer the question.. :laugh2:

On the VIC, the parts shaded black on both sides of the vehicle diagram.... does anything illuminate in there...ever? If it's blank i'll use the real estate but dont want to cover any indicators. My wifes earlier ZJ is different so thats no help to me.
 
Thats nice... but you didnt answer the question.. :laugh2:

On the VIC, the parts shaded black on both sides of the vehicle diagram.... does anything illuminate in there...ever? If it's blank i'll use the real estate but dont want to cover any indicators. My wifes earlier ZJ is different so thats no help to me.

Man getting all E-thug on me, Ill double check when i get home haha
 
Man getting all E-thug on me, Ill double check when i get home haha

LOL.. didnt intend to come across like that, but if it works.. :D Thanks dood..


So i did some searching at Pirate, found this post in a thread discussing adhering races into a bore. Looks like Loctite660 would be the product to use and have around for other jobs as well. Also read using a green loctite adhesive would almost be equal to welding it in, i want to option of replacing the race again if i have to. Thanks for the guidance Bill..

......................................................................................................

Just for anyone interested....

I talked to Loc-Tite technical today.

They said, that 609 Loc-tite is for .005" or less slop.

680 is for .015" or less

660 is for .020" or less.

For my situation....it seems the 609 is best.

For most differentials, and activator or primer such as Loctite N or T aren't really necessary as long as it is clean and oil free when you install the part.

HTH,
Sean

***EDIT*** In case anyone needs the info for future reference.....the loc-tite is part of the "retaining compound" line.
 
so much mis-information on the D44a..

Mine is Trussed with alloy shafts, 4.56 gears (nitro has 4.88s) and a spartan Locker.. Once they are trussed, they are actually much stronger then standard Iron Dana 44 due to the Dana 60 Pinion size. While they do have C-clips, they are not known to be problematic. and they are still 30 spline

2011-03-22154555.jpg

2011-03-22154849.jpg

2011-03-22183648.jpg



No problems so far.. If your interested, search for Mountain valley customs D44a Truss.. Alot of info on Jeepforum
 
You're right. The two I bent on a dd Zj used Offroad only for camping were nothing like the rest. Only people who like em are too stubborn to accept that they dumped all kinds of money in a toilet bowl axle.
 
You're right. The two I bent on a dd Zj used Offroad only for camping were nothing like the rest. Only people who like em are too stubborn to accept that they dumped all kinds of money in a toilet bowl axle.
find a post that shows a trussed 44a having problems..

Bet i can find more threads on a trussed 44a supporting 37s for 2 years first :yap:
 
Awe, come on guys just as we started having some good tech (Thanks John for the Loc-tite response). :)

Scott, I'm sure that axle is just fine for you, not something to be repeated or used on the east coast to much with the amount of rocks and such we have that would be a mighty big anchor even on an Expedition style rig. It is also a lot of money and fab work to fix the issues. That being said, I do have a buddy the cracked a center section of a stock un-modded D44a coming off a curb at a mall, no joke. I'll see if I can dig up some pictures. He promptly replaced it with a locked D35, eek. But it worked for awhile till he scrapped the whole thing.

Back on topic, I think John's best options for a low budget are probably the already mentioned 8.8 or 8.25.
 
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You are right. That would be super hard since no one wastes money building em nlet alone admitting to it.

The 44a's go bad on people frequently in stock rigs. If you would ever consider using it in a non stock way, I'd upgrade. Why risk safety on something that "might" work or fail.

The 44a is the Disco-30 version of a 44. You can build the shit out of the cad 30 with a lot of time and money. In the end it's still the crappy disco 30 with expensive parts. The 44a, to be reliable, would need money tossed at it. And ya still have a 44a. :doh:
 
You are right. That would be super hard since no one wastes money building em nlet alone admitting to it.

The 44a's go bad on people frequently in stock rigs. If you would ever consider using it in a non stock way, I'd upgrade. Why risk safety on something that "might" work or fail.

The 44a is the Disco-30 version of a 44. You can build the shit out of the cad 30 with a lot of time and money. In the end it's still the crappy disco 30 with expensive parts. The 44a, to be reliable, would need money tossed at it. And ya still have a 44a. :doh:

have any of you guys ever researched this axle? Obviously not.. spend some time on Mallcrawlin.. the 44a is much stronger then a standard 44.. and in alot of areas much stronger then an 8.8 so you heard of people having problems with them in stock form? funny.. i watch XJ guys snap 44 shafts on 33s all the time..


How can you bash something you have no real experience with? Build what you want, but dont bash something ignorantly.. Advising someone to swap an 8.25 in place of a d44a is pretty redundant..

And the statement of East coast vs west coast is also VOID.. I live in a mountainous region.. you play in mud

The 44a's go bad on people frequently in stock rigs. If you would ever consider using it in a non stock way, I'd upgrade. Why risk safety on something that "might" work or fail.
arnt you on 35s with a 27 spline axle? LOL


edit: What i find funny is, I have double the power, my rig weighs 6k lbs and I'm the one saying the 44a is a better choice..
 
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You are right. That would be super hard since no one wastes money building em nlet alone admitting to it.
Kinda like those guys that build D35s... they all figure it out sooner or later.
How can you bash something you have no real experience with? Build what you want, but dont bash something ignorantly.. Advising someone to swap an 8.25 in place of a d44a is pretty redundant..
It probably goes along those same lines with the D35 on 35s and the lift kits out there using a single 10mm bolt. I don't want experience with them. :)
How did you truss solve the issue with the bearings spinning in the alum section?
And the statement of East coast vs west coast is also VOID.. I live in a mountainous region.. you play in mud
That's Florida folks, but nice try. :D




This will go round and round all day, so horse beaten and back on topic before this ends in a thread that has no point? Thanks.
John's been around awhile, I'm sure he'll make the right choice.
 
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I've owned 4 ZJ's. I wheeled 2 and DD'd 2. I'm not ignorant to the axles.
(funny. Axle ignorance comment from a guy who didnt think there were clips on axle shaft ujoint :rolleyes: )

I've seen welded d35's hold up to 35's on hard trails with all stock components and no truss. Doesn't make it a good axle. Those people are just idiots.

Snapping a 44 on 33's make you an ass that needs to learn how to wheel. But Ive seen 60's break on 35's.

I wheel entirely in rocks. Entirely.

Look up 'redundant'. It doesn't mean what you think it means.
 
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