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The $6M XJ--Gentlemen, we can rebuild him...

plinkerneil

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
"...we have the technology."

This is sort of a re-build thread.

So, in 1994 I walked into the local Dodge dealership looking to buy the most car I could get for $15000. Turned out the way to do that was to order a 2-door, 5-speed Cherokee SE from the factory with only the options that were important to me. I wound up adding the 4.0L, ABS brakes, roof rack, A/C, rear wiper, and 4WD. I talked the dealer into attempting to order full-time 4WD (the NP242 t/c) along with the AX-15 transmission, but the computer system barfed it back up. My XJ came off the line during the last week of '94 model year production and cost me $16K all told.

This Cherokee has been my daily driver for 17 years and 150K miles. It's been at different times: my commuter through snow and ice, my work truck, my baby-mobile, my camper, and my tow rig. I've kept it maintained to a fault, had it fixed up after a couple of fender-benders. I had to have the transmission partially rebuilt under warranty when the local quickie-lube screwed up the fluids and the synchros disintegrated (from which I learned my lesson about quickie-lubes).

The weirdest thing that ever happened to it was when I took it to the dealership in 1999 at 69,990 miles and told them to look it over with a fine-toothed comb before the warranty expired at 70K. They found cracks in the engine block, weeping oil. So, Chrysler bought me a new crate engine block including the crankshaft, pistons, and everything, and the dealership put it in and had the 1994 head milled flat to mate perfectly with the block.

That's right, it's got the 1994 free-flowing head sitting on top of the 98+ block and lightweight pistons. I can tell you for a fact that is a fantastic combo. It revs a lot quicker than the old block, and when I put a CAI on it, it really took to the change. It has much more power and better mileage at highway speeds with the new filter. I get 18+ around town and 23+ on the highway.

I've clung to my XJ with a death grip because it's hands-down the best small SUV design ever for my needs. You can get more powerful vehicles, or bigger ones, or higher-MPG ones. But I love towing a 3500-lbs. trailer with wife and kids riding along (or hauling a bunch of camping gear down a dirt road to the campsite), then dropping the trailer and heading into the city and parking in an economy-car parking space. Anything else I can buy that would do that wouldn't have as much power and would get worse fuel economy. This is partly due to the body design--the XJ has much less frontal area than most vehicles with its ground clearance--and it's partly because of all the safety, emissions, and CAFE rules they've imposed on newer vehicles. The new vehicles are bigger and heavier and the new engines are gasping for breath.
 
Now the bad part. We met a crazy lady who can't tell the difference between a green arrow and a green light:

wreckdamage.jpg


Me, the wife, and the kids are all just fine. The XJ shouldered aside that lady's Liberty KJ like a linebacker, and left it sitting there with its driveshaft on the ground. And when my auto-body guy came to get it, he drove the XJ onto his flatbed under its own power.

Fortunately, the front unibody rails and the passenger-side door are OK. The damage:

-Bent front D30 axle
-obliterated quarter panel
-trashed hood
-bashed radiator
-bent mechanical fan
-front clip, grill, bumper, fender, headlight, marker lights and signal.

It's $4K to straighten everything out so I went looking for another vehicle, but found it'd cost me much more than that to get anything as capable in as good of a condition. I can get cheap Cherokees, but either the body's not clean or the drivetrain is thrashed. So I'm going to have it fixed up. My body guy's a genius, and says it'll be good as new when he's done. And since I'm replacing, may as well upgrade.

The plans:

-Upgrade the radiator with a full performance radiator and electric fan kit from FF Dynamics

-I'm sick to death of buying the stupid plastic bumper corners every time somebody loses control of a shopping cart. I'm getting one of these: http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1491, a Warrior Rock Crawler (sans guard).

-I'm going to upgrade the brakes. I had a discussion with mrblaine from Black Magic brakes, and I'm going to give his rotors and pads a try. With the ABS I've already got a larger booster, but I want sports-car-like stopping power for the next time somebody tries jumping in front of me
like that. My objective is to be able to activate the ABS on dry pavement. If the Black magic parts don't work, I'll try something a little more radical, like a Vanco kit or rear disk brakes.

-Which leads me to mention, I'M KEEPING THE ABS! It's really helpful on patchy ice and oil slicks like we get around here after a rain. So don't tell me to ditch the Dana 35 unless you've got a bolt-on ABS tone ring for a Chrysler 8.25.

-Right now, I'm not sure whether to change the gearing. I'm not finding a Dana 30 with factory 3.07 gearing, so I'll be re-gearing either the new front axle or my existing Dana 35. If I re-gear the Dana 35 to 3.55 to match all the Dana 30's I can pull from automatics, I've got to change the carrier, so I'll probably put in a Detroit Truetrac. But, like I said, I'm getting 23+ MPG on the freeway with my 3.07 gears, so I'm not sure I want to change anything.

-I've also got a small leak in the gasket between the AX-15 and the NP231. A neighbor is going to help me drop the T/C and fix that, so I bought an NP242 and I'll be swapping that in. I'm getting a rebuild kit and a new short-shaft 23-spline input gear from Novak for the 242. This'll be a nice upgrade for bad weather, especially if I do decide to put a Truetrac in the rear.

-A few other small things: Re-cover the driver's seat ('cause it's ripped up), new headliner, Hella H3 headlights. I'm going to put a pair of BMW headrests on the rear seat and install rear tether anchors for the kids' seats while I've got the cover off the seat back.

-I've collected the parts to put in the full instrument with gauges. It's probably time to do that.

Stay tuned to see how we come out, and please feel free to leave comments and suggestions. Do keep in mind though, it's a heavy-duty grocery-getter and road trip machine. Not off-road.
 
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3.55s with 31" tires and an AX-15 was basically factory ratio for me.

drove stock, still got 23+ on the highway in my MJ. The speedo even read correctly.

So I say go with 3.55's, just upsize your tires and do a mild budget boost to clear.

as you're finding out, 3.07 geared axles are not plentiful, they only came in 4.0 5sp XJs, and there just weren't too many made.
 
No, I'm not lifting it.

One of the reasons I like the XJ so much is its relatively low center of gravity. My wife and her lead foot drive it just fine, and she doesn't complain much about rolling through the corners. If I lift it, I'll worry about her rolling it.

I'm just about convinced to go with 3.55s anyway--I'll just have to remember to go easy on the skinny pedal.
 
31's will fit on a stock suspension, provided it's not sagged.
30's will fit no sweat, and be a good comprimise. That's like splitting your gear ratios and ending up at 3.20

and you also have to remember that there was the upcountry option from the factory, which sat 1" higher anyway. The handling will not change with another inch or two of suspension.
 
I'm just about convinced to go with 3.55s anyway--I'll just have to remember to go easy on the skinny pedal.

Whats the fun in that! :D That looks like a 1000 or so in parts and paint to have it in tip top shape again. A 2" lift and 31's will be great and still keep it low and stable. I'm at 3" with 32's and it handles better than stock.
 
-Right now, I'm not sure whether to change the gearing. I'm not finding a Dana 30 with factory 3.07 gearing, so I'll be re-gearing either the new front axle or my existing Dana 35. If I re-gear the Dana 35 to 3.55 to match all the Dana 30's I can pull from automatics, I've got to change the carrier, so I'll probably put in a Detroit Truetrac. But, like I said, I'm getting 23+ MPG on the freeway with my 3.07 gears, so I'm not sure I want to change anything.

-I've also got a small leak in the gasket between the AX-15 and the NP231. A neighbor is going to help me drop the T/C and fix that, so I bought an NP242 and I'll be swapping that in. I'm getting a rebuild kit and a new short-shaft 23-spline input gear from Novak for the 242. This'll be a nice upgrade for bad weather, especially if I do decide to put a Truetrac in the rear.


My DD is a 95 with 4.0/AX15/242 with 8.8/30 3.55's. After I swapped in the t-case and axles, I went for awhile on stock 225/75/15's. RPM's did jump up a little on the top end, off the line hauled ass, and mileage wasnt affected too much (if I kept my foot outta it and stayed at highway speed limits). I got 26 mpg on a section on highway coming back from Rocktoberfest in PA once. I now have 31's, its like factory-ish. Moves just fine and I can still get low 20's on the highway.


My 242 was out of a later XJ, 98 or 99 IIRC, and it bolted up to the AX15 no problemo. No need to change to input. Theres was enough room on the tranny output to except the input shaft without bottoming out. I absolutely LOVE having fulltime now. It poor road conditions the jeep used to suck, now I just pull the lever back and enjoy. Mighta done an AWD launch or two also, it hooks up and goes with those stock tires I was talking about ;)
 
87manche sez:
30's will fit no sweat, and be a good comprimise. That's like splitting your gear ratios and ending up at 3.20

Good idea. I'll think about that, or a little lift, if I decide I don't like the higher gear ratio.

foxwar71
My 242 was out of a later XJ, 98 or 99 IIRC, and it bolted up to the AX15 no problemo.

All I've been able to find around here was one out of a '89. Not a big deal, I'm rebuilding it anyway. I'm really looking forward to having that in. Like I said, I tried hard to convince them to give me one from the factory. Now I'm going to fix it.
 
You can swap any 91-95 242 into your XJ without an issue AFAIK. I've even heard you can swap the input gear from 242s and 231s back and forth but you have to stay on the same side of the 94.5 split (they changed the helical gear cut and cross-split won't mesh right) and so that 89 case probably won't work for you, since yours is a late 94.
 
Yeah, I thought about swapping the input gear out of my 231, but I don't want to mess around with guessing what pitch I've got currently. It's my DD, so I want this to be a weekend swap, not a project.

AFAIK, if I get a new early-pitch input gear for it, and swap my stock speedo assembly into the '89, it should work. If anybody knows otherwise, chime in.
 
If youre swapping in a 242, youll also need a shifter from a 242 equpped XJ, as the rods and stuff are different from the 231.... just in case you didnt know. Good luck!
 
I've got the linkage for the 242, but my understanding was that the shifter and shift gate are the same. Was I wrong about that?
 
The linkage and all that jazz is the same, the only difference is the notches in the shifter gate are slightly different. On a normal 242 gate, pulling straight all the way back it Fulltime. With a 242 shifted on a 231 gate, you have to move the lever right and back a little bit before Neutral. My 95 still has all the 231 shifter stuff. In fact, you cant use the 242 linkage on a manual transmission. The rods have different lengths between auto and manual XJ's, and since 242 only came behind autos, they're too long.
 
So you're running the linkage, shifter, and shift gate from the stock 231, and it's working alright?

Correct, everything is 231 parts except for the t-case itself. It works and shifts fine, it did take some adjusting to get the shifter throw proper. Like I said, the only difference is I have to bump the shifter over and go a little bit towards N/4L to get FT. Ive got a 97+ console and matching 242 bezel in it, the shifter lines up with the marks on it. I never bothered to swap the indictor light stuff over, it was corroded and broke when removing it.
 
Ive got a 97+ console and matching 242 bezel in it

Nice. I was thinking about doing that. Cupholders! But I've also got an idea for a MOLLE panel for the doors, to hang water bottle carriers from.

I do still need to find a 242 bezel.
 
That crash pic reminded me of my accident about a year back, mine was on the driver side tho. A lady in Dodge caliber on her phone shifted into my lane, she lucky she didn't die her car was totaled and she went into an amby in stretcher, I drove away under my own power home. Aside from the point sorry. I know you want to keep it low but look into Old Man Emu suspensions, you can get a 1.5 inch lift that handles better then stock and gives you a bit more clearance, its all military grade and really firm. If you go that route grab some bushings and new motor mounts. Just throwin it out there
 
Thanks, I'll check into that. I really don't know diddly about lift kits--never been an off-roader, just wanted a solid truck that seats five. But "handles better than stock" has a nice ring to it. And I have to admit, the XJ's looks really improve with a couple inches of lift. Heck, it looked a lot better when I went to 75R15's from the 70R15's.
 
Update!

Dropped by Warrior Products today and picked up a new front bumper. Their #561, w/out brush guard, but with D-ring tabs. I got that one rather than the clean-front one because the 561 comes with the unibody tie-ins. I think it's a mistake to get an "off-road" bumper that isn't fully tied in to the frame. I just know some jerk-off would try towing it from the bumper, and rip the bumper right out of its mount.

Anyway, I threw it in the U-Haul trailer (had to borrow my wife's Mustang GT for tow duty) and swung by the body shop to drop off the bumper. My body guy is extremely picky, but he was very impressed with the fit and finish on the bumper. It's going to look really good, and the stupid plastic corners will be gone for good.

We got to looking at the jeep, which is waiting its turn at the shop, and realized that the damage would have been a lot worse if the impact had been just a little closer to the centerline. As it is, the rim and axle took up the impact and saved the engine compartment from getting instantaneously re-arranged. I've got spare rims, and axles are pretty cheap. I might still have the damaged rim straightened, for a spare. I keep kicking around this idea to build up a utility trailer that uses the same rims and tires as the jeep--redundancy is good.

I took the driver's seat and the back of the rear seat with me. The driver's seat got dropped off at an upholstery shop, and they're going to re-cover the fabric part. That turned out to be the cheapest way to fix the rips. The other seats are in really good condition, so no fixing required.

The rear seat back came home with me. Hopefully this weekend, I'll be fitting a pair of BMW E30 rear headrests I got on fleabay. I'm going to drill and tap for three top tether anchors on the back of the seat as well. I'm going to use marine-grade folding cargo tie-downs, so they'll double as (duh) cargo tie-downs when the seat is folded flat.

I'll post some pictures when I get to actually fitting stuff...
 
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