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synthetic motor oil- bad idea?

bcmaxx

NAXJA Forum User
So since my full rebuild, I have been running rotella 15w40 motor oil and adding zinc additive just in case. I have about 20,000 miles on the new motor and a buddy just got rid of his truck and gave me 8 jugs of mobil 1 full synthetic 0w40 delvac. Can this be used in my engine? or bad idea all together? it would last me years if it works
 
short answer; it will work fine.

The only "real" reason to run a "full" synthetic is for better flow rates at cold startup, it's ability to hold a cst rating for longer at high temp and longer oil change intervals.
Full syn will expose weak spots in seals by defualt, thats becuase it's cleaning the gunk that is plugging the leak !
You just having rebuilt your engine should not have this to worry about. Being that it is "DELVAC" I'm pretty certain that is a CJ or CI rated oil so it will also have your "added zinc" or ZDDP.

Especially with you being in Canada, I would say the 0w would be a good thing vs 15w, a little overkill maybe but I would do it !
And thank your freind for saving ya over a hundred bucks, I would take that guy out for a drink :kissyou:!!
 
While I am not a fan 0W oils, it sounds like a good candidate for your situation. If I was going to try such an oil, Mobil 1 is the only one I would try.

What are the API (or other) ratings on the bottles?

I would check the mobil 1 web site for the actual zinc content.
 
While I am not a fan 0W oils, it sounds like a good candidate for your situation. If I was going to try such an oil, Mobil 1 is the only one I would try.

What are the API (or other) ratings on the bottles?

I would check the mobil 1 web site for the actual zinc content.

Maybe I'll use it then :) the api #'s are cj-4 ci-4 ch-4/s4 , delvac 1 esp
and it can't hurt to run the additive anyways right?
 
I have a VOA of DELVAC 5-40 here and it has a zinc level of 1153 and phosphorus @ 1059.......

IIRC, Rotella was 1059 and 1200... I see no reason for ANY kind of additives to oil.

being that it is 0-40 it will not have a limit of Z or P only a min of 800 IIRC.
 
I personally refuse to run Mobil1, but since your motors is basically just broken in, you will be fine. For the retail price there is by far better. At cheap and/or free can't complain. I mostly run Amsoil AMO, which is 10w-40 with added ZDDP.
 
I personally refuse to run Mobil1, but since your motors is basically just broken in, you will be fine. For the retail price there is by far better. At cheap and/or free can't complain. I mostly run Amsoil AMO, which is 10w-40 with added ZDDP.

X2...........
I won't buy mobil products, You can plainly see by checking into some VOA's and UOA's that there are many oils with the same or similar add pak as any mobil oil for HALF the price, that maintane there TBN for as long or longer.

I run AMSOIL everything EXCEPT motor oil...for that I run Rotella T5.

In our WJ I mix in some pnzl HM 5W for the winter.
 
something wrong with it??
Up until the early 2000s Porsche used to use Mobil1 from the factory, until they found out that they were blowing seals. They switched to Pennzoil Platinum and problem solved. I won't run Pennz either except for their Platinum/Ultra full syn.
The formula may have changed in the more recent years, especially with the extended performance, and high-mile full syn. But, there are much better, other oils, that cost less.
 
I will not run syn in the 4.0, you really need some ZDDP in your oil to keep the camshaft alive.

I switched my Hemi Commander over to Mobil1 5-20w and dropped my mileage by 1mpg, I switched it back to Castrol GTX 5-20w and picked that 1mpg back up. For some reason the MDS/VVT does not like synthetic oil. I was only getting 4cyl mode for a few seconds here and there on light throttle whereas the dino oil holds the 4cyl mode in longer, for minutes at a time sometimes on the same stretches of road.

I'm not convinced syn is all that economical in the long run.
 
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