Just thought I'd give an update on the AA SYE install and answer my own questions now that it’s all (well, mostly) done.
Trimming the shift rail: Didn't need to do it. On the old out-put cone it was covered by the cone with no access to it without removing the cone. No reason too access it, as far as I can tell. Now the new cone, as supplied with the kit, the end of this rail is accessible under a bolt-head. Why this is, I hope I never need to find out. I did not need to remove the transfer case skid plate (this is the Mopar one). Nor did I need to remove the range selector as discussed in the AA directions. BTW, I did this all while the case was still attached to my XJ.
I also checked out the FSM for the 2000 XJ seeing that is available on line (Search over at JU for it). I also had access to an impact wrench and an air driven socket-ratchet. The only standard fitting was the drain and fill plugs on the transfer case; this was 1/2" indent hex. Everything else (as expected) was metric. Additionally I had two friends come to help: Gus the Dog and XtraJ from
and JU respectively. They helped greatly. From helping to diagnose issues to keeping me calm to trading off when trying to get the f'ing snap rings out.
Now that I've done the install on this kit, I think my fears were way over blown. It took us about 6 hours to do the work with about a 45-minute lunch break.
However, I did discover that I mis-measured the u-joint at the differential when ordering my drive shaft. I was told that the 8 -1/4" axles come with two sizes of differential yokes: 3 1/4" or 3 5/8". I guess I didn't understand the instructions from the Tom Wood's customer service on how to measure but I measured 3 5/8". That’s the size U-joint I got. It should have been 3 1/4" as the 3 5/8" that I measured was the size of the differential yoke when I should have measured the u-joint in the yoke.. Opps... Turns out Spicer has an adaptor u-joint (Spicer # 5-134x) to attach my 3-5/8” drive shaft to my 3-1/4” yoke. NAPA carries them and I'll pick mine up tonight.
So, maybe you’re wondering how did I drive home with no rear drive shaft? Well, one of the reasons to do this conversion is you can remove the drive shaft and drive it in 4Hi like it’s a front wheel drive. Apparently doing that on the stock slip-yoke causes t-case fluid to leak out.
Hope this help others thinking of doing this conversion.
