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SYE Install

Just another note: I used the Sears lock-ring pliers that cost about $15 or so (they weren't 'top of the line' or anything but they did the job at the right price). http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947386000P?keyword=lock+ring+pliers

You'll also need a pair of internal snap-ring pliers...the ones with the two pins.... during the disassembly phase (I think there was one internal snap ring that had to be removed on mine).
 
As everyone has said, you definately need the snap ring pliers. I did mine witht the t-case in the Jeep. The biggest thing you need to be careful of is the oil pump on the rear of the output shaft. there is a little tube that seats into the aluminum and if you pull it out too far without removing that tube, the neck will break. I found out the hard way and had to run over to a friend's where he had a Grand Cherokee he was parting out. Luckily it had the 231 so I pulled the pump from that. Otherwise that would be a difficult part to track down. Other than that it is a fairly straight forward install and I was very pleased with the results.
 
I'm not sure I'd trust that front DS - it's even rustier than mine and that is saying a LOT.

xcm - easy way is to throw it in 4wd parttime to immobilize the driveshaft and use a 5/16 ratcheting box wrench - Sears sells em as "GearWrench"es. The bolts at the cv shaft end are in there pretty tight as I'm sure you know but with a ratcheting box wrench you can make pretty fast work of them. Another trick is to put the ratcheting wrench on the bolt (spin the driveshaft so the wrench is at about 10 o'clock looking from the back of the jeep), then use both hands to spin the driveshaft counterclockwise (have it in rwd for this of course) so the wrench smacks into the transfer case crossmember and breaks the bolt loose. Do that for each bolt on the CV yoke till they're all started. After that it's a walk in the park - you can get the thing out twice as fast if you use the driveshaft as another wrench, ie turn it back and forth while you're turning the ratchet wrench back and forth. Do this all without removing the straps on the u-bolt at the axle end, of course.
 
SCORE!!!

I spoke with a very nice lady at the junk yard about the DS they send me. She had me send it back and I got this just about brand new one a few days later!

PA300215.jpg


Compared to

PA140186.jpg
 
XJJeepNewb said:
I just did this about a month ago (AA SYE, Tom Woods shaft).

Before this I had never opened anything with fluid in it before but I have put on a lift kit, lots of body repair/replacement/suspension type work when I was younger and am reasonably handy with repair/replace type stuff but I wouldn't be comfortable opening an engine or setting up gears.

My suggestions:
1- the printed instructions they send with the AA/Tomwoods kit are absolutely FANTASTIC. Easily the best I've ever seen outside of contract manufacturing. This document will be your bible and contains all that you need. It's very detailed which makes it seem complex but just because every step is well documented.

2- I didn't bother to remove the transfer case, I have a 4.5" lift and I had enough room with the rear driveshaft removed to sit under the truck (slightly hunched over). Not the most comfortable but taking it all out looked like even more trouble. The biggest advantage of removing it would be to thoroughly clean and rebuild it and it would also be easier to apply the RTV gasket maker material. You decide which you'd rather do. (Side note: with all the CFC stuff out there now I might consider buying a junkyard transfer case and building it on a bench then remove/replace.)

3- In addition to the basic hand tools (plus LOCK ring pliers and a 12 pt, 10mm socket) you'll need an ~8 inch extension for your socket to go on the front output shaft, also a breaker bar would be helpful along with a torque wrench.

4- You might want to go ahead and buy a new chain and shift fork pads (or that front aluminum shift fork with the molded plastic glides) as well as a new o-ring for the speedo gear so that you can replace them while you have it open. Otherwise you'll have to order them and wait...which sucks big time with the truck disabled in pieces in your garage.I speak from experience here. ;)

5- I forgot to put the oil pickup tube back in the first time I sealed the case...even got the tailcone fully installed....big time F*CK ME!?!?!! moment there......and cleaning fresh RTV off is MUCH worse than cleaning off the original rtv gasket. So don't do that. Lol.

I ended up opening my case twice due to forgetfulness but I was still pretty pleased with myself when I finished. It's not something I'd do for the fun of it but the hardest part is just all the bolts you have to undo and the general messiness of dealing with ATF fluid.
Aside from the lock-rings nothing is really difficult or needs any 'forcing' or special tools/skills.

It's also one of those things that once you start it, you're definitely "all in" since the truck is disabled. But I find this gives me the motivation needed to see it through to completion. ymmv.

-Keith
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great post. I'm just about to do this myself.

Much appreciated.

:guitar::cheers:
 
stumpXJ said:
On the AA install, you do NOT have to remove the front yoke or driveshaft. All you need to do is remove one more snap ring on the left (front output) gear, and the main shaft, chain, and left gear will slide right out as an assembly. Just re-install the same way.
Click to expand...


YOu wouldnt happen to have a picture of the ring that needs to be removed would you?
I'm gonna try and do it today
 
You see where this guys left thumb is? thats where the other snap ring is. If you remove the snap ring, the gear will come off without taking off the front yoke or front output shaft. Very easy, once you get in there, you should see it.

~James

131_0806_08_z+jeep_tansfer_case_sye_install+front_output_yoke.jpg
 
stumpXJ said:
You see where this guys left thumb is? thats where the other snap ring is. If you remove the snap ring, the gear will come off without taking off the front yoke or front output shaft. Very easy, once you get in there, you should see it.

~James

131_0806_08_z+jeep_tansfer_case_sye_install+front_output_yoke.jpg
Click to expand...

His left or my left? I have my TC open and I don't see a snap ring to his left I'll check the other side
 
Glad you got it done. :thumbup:

I'm in the middle of this and have a small problem.

I got the tail housing off (lock rings and all), and have all the bolts from the case out, except for the top stud. (The 12 point). The case is cracked open, but that bolt will only back out to being almost out and then gets really hard to turn.

I don't want to force it too much, the treads being aluminum.

Anybody else come across this? What do you do?


Thanks.

:helpme:
 
I split two apart to swap my SYE into around 1:00pm ans finished it up at about 4:30pm.
Snap ring pliers are your friend for sure!!!!!!
Stukboy
 
Khary23 said:
It came right out on mine. I would try puting it back in as well as a few other bolts to hold the back of the case on. Then try and slowly back it out tmaking sure its coming out straght.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.

I ended up forcing it out. Since it's the only spot on the case where the bolt goes all the way through, I figured that if the treads gets damaged, I could tap the hole bigger and put a bolt and nut on it.
 
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