JeepFreak21
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cameron Park, CA
Last edited:
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SYE Install...In or out of Jeep?
- Thread starter 94CountryXJ
- Start date
stumpXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Atlanta, Georgia
Actually, you need good external snap ring pliers.
~James
~James
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
I did the SYE install in my 231 with the tcase in place. It was easy. Certainly beat the hell out of fumbling around with the crossmember bolts, tcase to trans bolts, and the tcase shift linkage. Remove the front shaft and yoke. I can't even see how it would be possible to reinstall everything without removing the front yoke so you could seat the chain correctly.
Plus most of the kits come with new rubber gaskets for the new rear yoke AND the front yoke that goes under the yoke on the shaft. So disassembly is required.
Plus most of the kits come with new rubber gaskets for the new rear yoke AND the front yoke that goes under the yoke on the shaft. So disassembly is required.
stumpXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Atlanta, Georgia
Removing the yoke is simply not needed. I posted a link that explains how to do it and never touch the front drive shaft. All it requires is removing an extra snap ring, and the rear output shaft and chain will slide out together along with the lower shaft gear. It makes life much easier than screwing with the front driveshaft and removing the yoke.
Bottom line is, you can do it either way.
~James
Bottom line is, you can do it either way.
~James
ECKSJAY
Water is dirty
- Location
- Covington, WA
Most of the ones I did involved changing seals, too. Might as well since it's apart. Also a good opportunity to check that front output bearing.
rooneypower
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodinville, WA
Most of the ones I did involved changing seals, too. Might as well since it's apart. Also a good opportunity to check that front output bearing.
X2
Take it out and do it on the bench, not hard at all.
Keil
JeepFreak21
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cameron Park, CA
fyrfytr1717
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Turlock, CA
The Tom Wood 242 SYE kit doesn't include a front output yoke seal, only the rear output yoke seal which is already pressed into the re-manufactured rear retainer provided with the kit. If you want to screw around with removing the crossmember, shift linkage, TC to trans bolts, front drive shaft, front output yoke, etc... by all means go ahead and spend the extra time. It's just not necessary on the 242. The drive sprocket for the front output yoke can be removed by simply removing a snap ring. It will just slide right off the shaft as you pull the chain and mainshaft out. For those who still can't visualize how it works, here's a picture of mine still in the vehicle. You'll notice I even have a small spacer installed between my transmission mount and crossmember (further reducing the amount of working room between the case and the tunnel) and I still had plenty of room to work.
The only cautions I would offer someone doing this in the vehicle are:
1. Make sure you pay attention to your sealant pattern as the case halves are shaped differently in the area of the magnet and oil pump pick-up screen
2. Gravity will cause residual oil from your remaining internal parts to drip down onto your sealing surface, so make absolutely sure the surface is clean immediately before applying sealant.
The only cautions I would offer someone doing this in the vehicle are:
1. Make sure you pay attention to your sealant pattern as the case halves are shaped differently in the area of the magnet and oil pump pick-up screen
2. Gravity will cause residual oil from your remaining internal parts to drip down onto your sealing surface, so make absolutely sure the surface is clean immediately before applying sealant.
Ralph
NAXJA Member #149
- Location
- Lubbock, Texas
A very straight forward job. No need to pull the t-case.
ECKSJAY
Water is dirty
- Location
- Covington, WA
Good reason to take it out and stand it on the bench. :roll:
JeepFreak21
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cameron Park, CA
Or just leave the back half off for weeks as you start countless other projects like I did
Billy
ECKSJAY
Water is dirty
- Location
- Covington, WA
Or just leave the back half off for weeks as you start countless other projects like I did
Billy
:jester:
OverlandZJ
NAXJA Member # 101
- Location
- Bristol,PA
If there is considerable mileage on the transfer case i'd suggest grabbing a set of shift fork pads from Q-Tech or elsewhere. Every high mileage transfer i worked on had worn or missing pads.
Think they list around 8 bucks plus shipping.
Think they list around 8 bucks plus shipping.
whatevah
It's Yellah!
- Location
- Wilmington, DE
I installed an SYE in a 231 3 weeks ago, that was already removed from the Jeep, and did one on Thursday that was in the Jeep (but on a lift). The hardest part is getting the dust shield off of the output shaft. That's easiest with the tcase removed, but I got it down without too much trouble with the XJ on the lift, too. If you have a lift available, just leave it in. It takes as much time to remove the tcase as you'd save removing the output seal shield. If you don't have access to a lift, it might be a bit faster to pull the tcase.
The most important tool you'll need is the external snap ring plier. Get the biggest one you can get (at least 1 1/4" travel). You'll also need a set of internal lock ring pliers as well, but you don't need anything special for that, it's just for one ring inside the stock output housing.
The most important tool you'll need is the external snap ring plier. Get the biggest one you can get (at least 1 1/4" travel). You'll also need a set of internal lock ring pliers as well, but you don't need anything special for that, it's just for one ring inside the stock output housing.
Sorry to bump the old post, but currently doing my 231 SYE in the Jeep while attempting to keep the front DS and yoke installed. I have the case split in half, but I'm just not seeing the snap ring I need to remove from the input shaft to allow it to slide out of the TC.
Boostwerks.com
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
You'll need to undo the F DS and yoke in order to pull the F output, chain and main shaft as an assembly. Check out YouTube for video's if needed.
Yes, I have watched a couple videos that show removing the F DS and yoke, however reading this thread there are multiple mentions and a link showing its possible w/out removing the F DS and yoke. I figured I would give it a shot since it is so much less to do. However, I'm not having much luck finding the snap ring they're referring to. I guess I will be removing the F DS and yoke after all.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
There is a lock ring holding the bearing in place, under the output shaft. You must remove the yoke to remove the output shaft.