Okay. I'm just gonna chime in because some of these procedures listed are incorrect. Old style rubber gasket rear----- as stated, put gasket on glass, then feed quarter inch rope (clothesline, not that shitty blue nylon from Harbor Freight) into pinchweld opening of gasket, with 2-3 inch overlap. Start at bottom center of gasket, all the way around, tape excess to inside of glass. Liberally spray foaming glass cleaner (SprayAway is good, blue and white can, sold at WalMart) or water with some dish detergent around tailgate pinchweld and gasket/glass assembly perimeter. Set gasket/glass assembly into pinchweld opening. Pull rope around one bottom corner and halfway up one side, then do same to other side. Then back to other side, pull rope up side, around top corner, to top center. Then same to other side, finishing at top center. All the while putting pressure on glass (I prefer the spread open handed smack). Starting the rope in the corner is not recommended. Pulling rope in one circular direction is also not recommended. Alternate from side to side, basically pulling rope as 4 seperate sections. If you have a chrome insert in the gasket, make sure that goes in first, before glass/gasket assembly goes in vehicle.------------------
Newer style urethaned in back glass- First and foremost, DO NOT use any chemicals, solvents, Goo Gone, etc. to clean off all of the old urethane. Urethane adhesive sticks best to urethane adhesive. Very bad idea to remove all of the old urethane. If glass is intact and you are saving it, cut off the old moulding, and use a cold knife to remove. If glass is broken, knock as much broken tempered glass off as possible. Use long knife or utility knife to start trimming broken tempered, keeping the tool parallel to pinchweld itself. Once you get it started, pull on the glued broken tempered. This makes it cut MUCH easier. You are trying to leave flat, smooth, thin layer of old urethane on pinchweld. Also, keep in mind any scratches on pinchweld WILL RUST. Very important to cover scratches with pinchweld primer. Also, use same maufacturer adhesives and primers. i.e., don't use Sika Aktivator and 206G+P pinchweld primer with Essex urethane. Stick to Sika or Essex. They're the best ones. 3M, Titan, CR Laurence, - all shit. Urethane is gas permeable, and scratches will rust if left untreated. Use urethane! No silicone, Liquid Nails, mastic, butyl tape, or any other of the myriad of shit I've come across over the years. Mostly attributed to being un-informed. You guys can send me any glass questions you might have. JB ...... NGA, Sika, Essex, and Dow certified 14 year auto glass veteran