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Swap out D44 for D35?

nosigma

NAXJA Member # 1371
NAXJA Member
Location
McLean Va
I am working on adding ground clearance to my XJ but I dont want to lift it above 4.5" for stability. The D44 I have now hangs down a lot lower than a D35 would. I figure that if I get stuck less using a D35 I will use the throttle less so the D35 would be a much better rear axle since I wouldnt get stuck, use it hard and break it.

Anyone out there running a Dana 35 who really likes it?

John
 
Well Ive never heard anybody twist it that way!"Just say NO to D35's".
 
I wouldnt really worry about it hanging down all that much. 4.5 inchs of lift is plenty for a dual duty XJ, just get some bigger tires to get your diffs away from the ground.
 
I am surprised by these answers. I did a lot of searching on D35 and there seem to be a lot of guys that run them on 33's or 35's and think they are just fine. After all if you dont get stuck you dont need to use the throttle right?

John
 
those who claim the run 35's on a D35 must have driveway queens, all around the 35 is weak, theres no point to swap one in its just not worth it
 
My buddy runs a 35 with the super-35 kit in it on 35's. He semi-trussed it with an ARB and has done every major trail in CA, Dusy, Rubi, Forydice. He also runs the front 30, trussed with 30spline shafts and a true-track. Wicked set-up.
the 35 is kinda like the 30. You make a choice, beef it up for $$ or get a bigger diff for $$. soooo....its your choice.
 
Have you thought about an 8.25? Plenty stronger than the d35.. haven't checked to compare ground clearances. When I swing by for the brake petal we can throw a tape on mine if you want.
 
The D35 gets a bad rap. If it was that horrible an axle AMC or Chrysler would have gone out of business from lawsuits over it.

Throttle jockeys blow up D60's all the time. If I sleeve the axle tube to stop it from flexing, truss it and run a limited slip why wouldnt it last a long time on 35's? Heck I could even add a super 35 kit and make it bullet proof on 35 tires (thats why its called a super 35 kit) right?

John
 
for a stock axle it does its job, but when ya add bigger tires and wheel it it breaks, speanding ove a grand on beffing it up is just stupid, your spending all this money and time just to save a little ground clearance
 
for a stock axle it does its job, but when ya add bigger tires and wheel it it breaks, speanding ove a grand on beffing it up is just stupid, your spending all this money and time just to save a little ground clearance

I'm not sure how it would be stupid. You are going to spend money on any axle you build. If these axles were so totally worthless, companies wouldn't make anything for them, forcing you to upgrade.

I think this is a fun discussion. A lot of us have D35 axles. They built amost 3 million XJ's and not all of the have the beloved D44 or 29 spline 8.25.

A lot of what we believe to be the gospel was fed to us by magazines or others that read it somewhere else. Component failure has a lot to do with where and how you wheel your machinery.

I ran a heavy Scout II with D44 axles, lockers, and 36" swampers. If I believed everything everyone said, I should have been running D60's. Guess what? The D44's did just fine.
 
dont go with the d35 get the d44 and if your worried about the shock mounts hanging down so low then buy some pre fabbed ones from damn near any 4x4 shop and weld them on higher op the axle tube. d44 is a WAY better axle
 
I know your trying to fight against the grain, but this is something you really need to do your research on. Im not going to be arrogant. i understand completely where you're coming from. but the dana 35 was just not designed for the abuse of anything bigger then 31"s. The axle shafts are weak. most d35's are C-clip, witch makes it worse. and the axle tubes are thin.

You have the most common "Upgrade" axle wise, already. enjoy it. there's more aftermarket for that axle then any dana35

And your arguement for "If it was a bad axle they wouldnt of used it" is invalid for one reason, the XJ was designed for street use.
The dana44 is stock front and rear on Wrangler rubicons, why? cause it was intended for offroad trail use.

Chrysler gets it. (heh..kinda)
 
dont go with the d35 get the d44 and if your worried about the shock mounts hanging down so low then buy some pre fabbed ones from damn near any 4x4 shop and weld them on higher op the axle tube. d44 is a WAY better axle


I already have a D44 with raised shock mounts. I was thinking of swapping it for a D35 so the diff wouldnt get hung up so much (D44 hangs lower). Of course I would raise the shock mounts on the D35, and I might even sleeve and truss it to keep it the tubes from bending and wrecking the R&P.

John
 
I already have a D44 with raised shock mounts. I was thinking of swapping it for a D35 so the diff wouldnt get hung up so much (D44 hangs lower). Of course I would raise the shock mounts on the D35, and I might even sleeve and truss it to keep it the tubes from bending and wrecking the R&P.

John

oh i see what your saying now. i personally think that you would be better off with the d44 even if it hangs a little lower. i have never heard one bit of good about a d35 with anything bigger than 30 inch tires.
 
I already have a D44 with raised shock mounts. I was thinking of swapping it for a D35 so the diff wouldnt get hung up so much (D44 hangs lower). Of course I would raise the shock mounts on the D35, and I might even sleeve and truss it to keep it the tubes from bending and wrecking the R&P.

John



I struggle with this thread. I think you're joking. But, it doesn't bother me entirely.

Take the D44 out. Remove the ring gear and carrier. Take it to a decent machine shop. Instruct them to remove about .250 off of the OD. Re-assemble into axle. Take a straight edge and mark the lowest point of the gear accross the housing... Remove ring/carrier. Put housing in bandsaw, cut at the mark you made or about 1/16 below it. Take a peice of .375 plate, put over hole. Mark plate to cut to size of hole. Cut plate. Make a notch in it to give the ring gear a little more clearance (angle grinder). Weld plate on. Smooth welds with grinder. Hack up diff cover to fit.

Now your D44 is only slightly weaker than it was, but has way better clearance... Or you could hack it without shaving the ring gear any.
 
Interesting sig considering he wants to bolt in a D35 :roll:

I shaved my 8.25 for just the reason in the original post, pumpkin clearance. What a friend of mine was clearing with 235s and a D35, I was getting hung on with 31s and my 8.25.

I run 33s on the stock D35 on the Wrangler.
 
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