• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Stock 4.10 gears ????

I know this has been asked a million times and yes i have researched the question but i still havent came up with a definitive answer. What years did they stop using stock 4.10 gears? So far all ive been able to find is "older 4bangers" basically i plan on pullin an 8.8 with 4.10 from a explorer and dont want to spend 600-1000 to regear the dana 30. Its a 93 and i dont really want the crappy older dana 30s. What should i be lookin for and is it worth it to pull a axle or just regear?

As Tim said, nothing wrong with 'older' (non-CAD) D30s.

We all have our opinions, the 8.8 is a POS, in my opinion.......but people do it.
 
Whats so bad about the 8.8? I understand the whole spinning the tube issue but with a decent truss is there still some major problems? I plan on running 32s with 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 inches of lift and dont plan on going through any boulder fields or anything crazy. Basically this is my daily driver that im tryin to build on a small budget. 200 bucks for a 8.8 with the gears i need sounds pretty good to me. Lol
 
Whats so bad about the 8.8? I understand the whole spinning the tube issue but with a decent truss is there still some major problems? I plan on running 32s with 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 inches of lift and dont plan on going through any boulder fields or anything crazy. Basically this is my daily driver that im tryin to build on a small budget. 200 bucks for a 8.8 with the gears i need sounds pretty good to me. Lol
If you find an 8.8 with 4.10 gears, you still have some cutting and welding to do, not to mention money spent on brackets.

If you find an XJ with 4.10 gears in the front, it should have 4.10 gears in the back. If that rear axle just happens to be an 8.25" axle, you found a bolt on upgrade. At that point, you can spend extra money on wear parts, like, new bearings and seals.

If you really want disc brakes, look for a Liberty with an 8.25 axle, swap the disc brake hardware onto your XJ axle. Around here (at the self serve yards), you can get out the door for around $125.

103115%2003.jpg


The elusive KZXJ 8.25" axle.

103115%2004.jpg
 
If it has an 8.25 then id take it but i figured it's gonna be hard enough to get a dana 30 with 4.10s. The exploders are a dime a dozen around here and seen a couple with 4.10s at the local part yard. Disc brakes arent a big concern at all just figured if i could get a stronger axle with the right gears and the added bonus of disc brakes why not? Brackets are kinda cheap and the labors free.... minus the beer. Looking to do 4.10s and a stronger rear axle for 500 or under. Thanx for all the input im new to just about everything and google has only given me enough info to be dangerous. Lol
 
That's basically exactly what I did. 4.10 8.8. the discs are much nicer. Did ruff stuff install kit, solid diff cover, new brakes and seals. Reused one hard line, made one new one. Cost was right about $500 including the axle. There is nothing wrong with the 8.8. weld the tubes and run it.
 
Thanx trippled i was just lookin at the ruff stuff kit last night. So i found a dana 30 out of a 88 xj 4banger manual with 4.10 gears. My only concern is the cad system. Is this a major weakpoint? How will it affect running a arb locker?
 
Last edited:
It won't affect the ARB at all. But man, I used to rave about how cool the CAD is. It's been a pain to keep working right, even with a cable, and seems to be not worth the effort anymore. You could get a shaft and cad delete kit for stronger u joints and not have to regear, though.
 
Yeah kinda stuck between the two. I can get a deal on diff. Labor but parts are still more expensive than to pull an axle with the gears. Just hate the thought of fighting that cad system. Budget kinda dictates my build plus its my dd so cant spend the time without it. Looks like im off to see if its still there ablnd if i can pull it myself b4 work
 
Finally got that damn axle out. Thats about the extent of my know how when it comes to axles and diffs so i apologize in advance for what im sure will be a dumb question but can i just swap the diffs between axles and get rid of the cad system? Or how hard would it be to pull the internals and swap em and is it worth it?
 
Finally got that damn axle out. Thats about the extent of my know how when it comes to axles and diffs so i apologize in advance for what im sure will be a dumb question but can i just swap the diffs between axles and get rid of the cad system? Or how hard would it be to pull the internals and swap em and is it worth it?

Yes. Find someone with the know-how to come over and swap......or.........take both axles to a competent shop and pay them the $250 to swap and set up in the non-CAD axle.
 
If you were going to go through the hassle of regearing your current axle, you should just get new gears instead of trying to put used gears in your housing.
You may want to start a new thread since this one is going down a rabbit hole that has little to do with the original post. There you can tell us what you already have and what your intentions are so you can be better served. As it stands, you probably want to throw the new axle under your jeep and run it.
 
So it wouldnt be a matter of just pulling and swapping carriers, shims, etc?

The pricey part of gears isn't the parts, it's the labor to get them properly set up. You can't just pull them out of one and slap them in the other and expect them to fit and engage properly. Each case has slight variations.

If you're going to swap them into a different housing anyway just buy new gears.
 
Back
Top