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steering upgrade needed....

Do you have any interference issues with your lower passenger side sway bar link, or is the Currie designed to work around that problem? My stock drag link knuckle hits it at full right lock when the passenger side droops. I was going to modify the lower sway bar mounts, but if the Currie eliminates the problem I'll just hold off until I upgrade my steering.


Hey Gang. Not to drag up an old thread but I've got the exact same problem and am wondering if the currie setup bends out more than stock to clear that passanger sway bar mount. Right now, the joint on the drag link scrapes my JKS and will bind on it occasionally.

I do not want to install a drop pittman arm. Rig is a DD/weeked wheeler. I drive 30mi at 70mph+ one way to work so I don't want to try OTK right now.

Have RE SF 4.5" with DB's and adjustable lowers. Will be installing shakle relocation brackets this summer then lifting front additional 1.5" with spacers to level out a little.

Thanks in advance for your help.
-Wall
 
I never did get a reply to my question about this but have seen a few Currie systems in person since this time. It looked like they caused even more interference than the OEM steering due to the beefy size of the tie rod. The one guy I talked to told me he relocated his sway bar links using the write-up on gojeep's site as a guide. Here's the link if you're interested.

Not the easy answer I was hoping for either. Looks like the clearances are just too tight to do much with all the factory parts in place. The other option I'm considering is referred to as the "pie cut" method. You just cut a wedge out of the back of your stock links, bend them back toward the coil buckets, and then reweld them in the proper position.
 
Might also want to consider a RHD drag link,I bought it new for about 75$ a couple yrs back!You still need to relocate the trackbar though.
 
I never did get a reply to my question about this but have seen a few Currie systems in person since this time. It looked like they caused even more interference than the OEM steering due to the beefy size of the tie rod. The one guy I talked to told me he relocated his sway bar links using the write-up on gojeep's site as a guide. Here's the link if you're interested.

Not the easy answer I was hoping for either. Looks like the clearances are just too tight to do much with all the factory parts in place. The other option I'm considering is referred to as the "pie cut" method. You just cut a wedge out of the back of your stock links, bend them back toward the coil buckets, and then reweld them in the proper position.

Yeah, I spent some time searching and couldn't find an answer. I saw your post where you fab'd up those brackets and a couple of other ones. The pictures I saw of the currie setup via that one Dana 30 thread made it look straighter than the stock. I'm probably going to just get these JKS parts I saw in still another thread:

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAB_910_915&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

Not bad for $30. Thing is that I can't weld so I'll bribe a friend of mine from work to do it. No biggie. Just thought I could get away with it since I'll still probably end up getting the currie setup anyway, just for the HD aspect. Thanks for your quick reply.
 
Never came across those before. Looks pretty much identical to what gojeep fabbed up in his write up. Recalling how long it took me to make the little brackets you referenced from the other thread, I think the $23 is well worth the time saved and hassle avoided.

The brackets I made did help out, however they didn't eliminate my problem. Even with the lower links totally removed, my draglink knuckle still hits the factory bracketry just before I hit the steering stop. It seems moving it out of the way is the only good solution. I just can't figure out why some folks are better off than us (no contact) while others are worse off (contact with the sway bar link and the steering stabilizer bolt). I guess it's the ol' every XJ is different explanation.
 
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