If you're just lifting the front to work on front end stuff, block one of the rear wheels by chocking it fore and aft - so it can't roll around on you (get a few sets of those folding wheel chocks you can find at Sears for five bucks a pair. I keep three or four sets in the bottom drawer of my toolbox, a pair in my truck, and I even keep a pair in the spare tyre well in her car. Safety first, last, and always...)
If it's a positive "clunk" when turning, and just one of them, I'd actually check the track bar first. The track bar locates your axle to prevent side-to-side movement - it runs from the driver's side framerail to the passenger side of the axle, as I recall. The TRE (Tie Rod End) at the framerail may be starting to show wear, the bushing at the axle end may be showing wear, or the bolt may be loose at the axle.
Before you just "throw parts at it," why not check to see what parts need throwing? You could save yourself quite a few bucks and a few hours' work if you just spend a half-hour troubleshooting...
Lift the front of the vehicle, chocking the rear wheel(s). Let the axle droop, support the vehicle at the frame.
Using a pair of Channel-lock pliers, compress each TRE and watch for rebound. Each TRE should compress about 1/16" or so (the ball studs in them are spring-loaded,) and should rebound fully after pressure is released. This makes sure the spring hasn't collapsed, and is allowing free play. Test each TRE you can reach - from the Pitman arm on the steering box to both wheels, and try to compress/rebound the TRE at the frame rail on the track bar as well. If a TRE doesn't compress or doesn't fully rebound, replace it.
Having done that, take hold of each component of the steering linkage in your hands, with one hand on each side of the TRE you're checking. Try to wiggle the joint. You should get it to pivot around the ball stud fairly easily, but it shouldn't "clunk" when you move it - if it does, it's likely worn. Grease and repeat on any joints found to be loose - replace any that are still loose after greasing (grease is cheap, TREs aren't. But, check before you grease, so you can see if any are "on the way out.")
Check to make sure your bushings aren't going soft - the upper control arms (both ends,) the lower control arms (both ends,) the track bar (at the axle,) and the antiroll bar (links to the axle and the bushings to the frame.) A good probe is actually a knitting needle - they're blunt enough to not damage anything, but still sharp enough to press into the rubber. Get the knitting needles that are about 1/4" through the shank. You shouldn't be able to press more than the very point of the needle (3/32" or so) into the rubber - if you can get more than that in there, the bushing is going soft. Replace it.
The universal joints (all seven of them - both front wheels and both driveshafts) can be tested easily - grab the driveshaft in both hands, with one hand on each side of the universal joint being tested. Wiggle and shake the shaft, feeling for any free play in the universal joint. Grease and repeat - if a joint "tightens up" after greasing, make a note to replace it in the next few weeks. Replace straight away any that don't tighten up with greasing.
Recall that the "shotgun" approach to finding worn parts can be spendy - and many tests are rather cheap, and don't take very much time! I'd rather spend a half-hour positively identifying parts that want replacing than just replacing them all and finding out I spent $300 more than I had to... A pair of knitting needles is a few bucks (get the aluminum ones, not the plastic ones,) and you should have largish Channel-Lock pliers around anyhow (damned useful, those.) Since you're planning front end work, I'm sure you already have jackstands and a floor jack - so you've got just about everything you need as far as tools, you have the knowledge that you need (now,) so spend a half-hour or so testing and save yerself a few bucks or so.
"U-joint straps" are the metal bits that attach the driveshaft universal joints to the pinion yokes. They should always be replaced when removed, especially when replacing the universal joint as well. I do find socket head capscrews to work better than the reduced hex head screws - get 1/4"-28x1" screws, and be sure to apply LocTite #242 (or equivalent) to the screw threads! Thrown driveshafts are no fun.
I also like to paint the universal joint caps with never-seez - both the ones that get pressed into the driveshaft yokes, and the ones that get strapped into the pinion yokes. Makes future disassembly easier...