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Shock valving on heavy rigs.

why not get a rebuildable shock you can tune yourself? f.o.a. makes a lower priced rebuildable shock.. or fox too. could always get a bypass shock swayaway are a cheaper option too.
 
what do you mean they come with no valving? I have bought plenty of kings and fox and sway away and they all come with valving.. not sure what you are saying?
 
I think something I said got lost.
I already put my shocks through the floor because that's the only way to get a long enough shock for my travel. I'd just be installing a second set temporarily into the stock location, to get a feel for what numbers I'll need. If I throw in another set of 255/75 at a 45, I can just cut those numbers in half and add them to my existing shocks, for a total of around 382/112. It'll take me all of 10 minutes to bolt up and test, cost me nothing, and I'll know from this, roughly what 380/110 valving would feel like. From there, I buy real shocks and set them up a little stiffer or softer depending on how it rode. Just takes a lot of the guess work out by having two sets of numbers to work from.
 
That said though, and I'm not sure about this, but this may be a moot point right now. Some fool hammered on his brakes in front of me on the way home from wheeling today, to avoid two other fools who were stopped in the middle of the road, at night, in a massive downpour, to argue about who scratched who's car. I managed to avoid hitting the guy in front of me, but my roomie didn't miss me :). My spare tire carrier took out my hatch, and destroyed the front end of his truck. Damage didn't seem too bad so the cop let us just drive away (despite roomies front end being caved in), but on the way home, I started getting some real bad grinding/rattling from the driveline. Suspect my frame got a bit tweaked (despite tonnes of plating). Not enough to see visually, but enough to cause my t-case linkage to be the wrong length (that's my first suspicion anyway). May be time for a new build :p.
 
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