Shock questions for the go fast guys

[CRASH]

It's not that bad :laugh3:

I found a shop near my house that will straighten it for $100.

Paul

Look at the bright side, a little negative camber can help the tires dig on those fast turns.......

 

[JeepFreak21]

I thought this would fit well in here, so I moved it over.
Billy

 

[dgrigorenko]

Yeah just read the whole thing. Good stuff

 

[Goatman]

Interesting. To update this thread since it's here, I ended up going with the Bilstein 7100 12" short body in the front with 275/78 valving and the 10" 5150's in the rear with 255/70 valving. The front springs are 8" Skyjacker with one coil removed (which are pretty stiff) and the Prothane poly coil inserts for bumpstops. Rear springs are mostly 1/2 Chevy with an MJ main leaf, 5" longer than stock XJ, with liners, and poly bumpstops.

It's not perfect in the fast stuff, but it's pretty good. And not a very expensive setup.

 

[dgrigorenko]

Interesting. To update this thread since it's here, I ended up going with the Bilstein 7100 12" short body in the front with 275/78 valving and the 10" 5150's in the rear with 255/70 valving. The front springs are 8" Skyjacker with one coil removed (which are pretty stiff) and the Prothane poly coil inserts for bumpstops. Rear springs are mostly 1/2 Chevy with an MJ main leaf, 5" longer than stock XJ, with liners, and poly bumpstops.

It's not perfect in the fast stuff, but it's pretty good. And not a very expensive setup.

lol nice work updating in 3 years! (yeah i know it had probably dissapeared from sight and memory)

 

[karstic]

Interesting. To update this thread since it's here, I ended up going with the Bilstein 7100 12" short body in the front with 275/78 valving and the 10" 5150's in the rear with 255/70 valving. The front springs are 8" Skyjacker with one coil removed (which are pretty stiff) and the Prothane poly coil inserts for bumpstops. Rear springs are mostly 1/2 Chevy with an MJ main leaf, 5" longer than stock XJ, with liners, and poly bumpstops.

It's not perfect in the fast stuff, but it's pretty good. And not a very expensive setup.

This was on the bobtail, correct?

 

[Mike1331]

goatman, how did those front upper shock mounts work with the foxes. You said you gained 1.5" of travel using the stock mounting location/design but the main reason to lower it is two spread the load over a larger portion of where the shocks mount. Did you ever crack the upper mounting locations when you were running the shock like this?

What would be supper trick is if somebody would make some rounded out plate to weld to the top of the shock mounting location that we could just drill a hole into to put the threaded rod of the shock through. That's probably just entail a shitload of hammering out some plate steel. This way we'd gain the travel and strength of that mounting spot.

 

[Goatman]

This was on the bobtail, correct?

Yes, this is on the yellow XJ, not the buggy.

goatman, how did those front upper shock mounts work with the foxes. You said you gained 1.5" of travel using the stock mounting location/design but the main reason to lower it is two spread the load over a larger portion of where the shocks mount. Did you ever crack the upper mounting locations when you were running the shock like this?

What would be supper trick is if somebody would make some rounded out plate to weld to the top of the shock mounting location that we could just drill a hole into to put the threaded rod of the shock through. That's probably just entail a shitload of hammering out some plate steel. This way we'd gain the travel and strength of that mounting spot.

I never ended up getting the Fox's, I went with the 7100's instead. The 7100's are a bar mount, so I used the JKS shock adapters. I made the lower shock mounts where they needed to be to work right.

All the years that I ran a post top I never cracked the steel of the inner fender. I did tear up a few bushings.