Shock question for the jeepspeed guys...

[ECKSJAY]

Did you ever figure out what was in that pack?

Started as XJ heavy pack with the overload...and some additional full length leaf. The paint was worn off the leaves from a combination of Moab dirt and Baja salt, so I wasn't able to get them deciphered.

 

[Ba-Riedo]

One of the issues with my T&T's is the holes on the belly pan are all ovaled out where the links attach, I don't know if this is common or just a freak accident but it makes some awful sounds. I need to drop the pan and weld on new mounts or at least weld some 1/4inch to the sides of the old mounts. Then I will deal with the shocks.

-Alex

 

[ktm racer 419]

Thanks, so currently my shocks are hitting my DPG plates and bending the body of the shock, I guess I need to move my mounts inward a bit?

-Alex

i had that issue. looked fine when mounted, but axle wrap toasted them. good thing i ran cheapo shocks then.

i couldn't run the travel shock I needed using the factory body side mounts and keeping the bottom of the shock alove the bottom of the axle tube. so I came up with this:

im expecting an improved, more stable ride over the fast stuff, but havent had a chance to test it out yet. shocks closest to the spring/tire= good

 

[builder]

Dan,
I'm not sure what you're talking about -

I was suggesting that Alex pull one 'upper' link off his radius arm style front suspension - leaving one 'radius arm' and one just really long lower.

I have a good friend running this in his rig, and it drives and works just like mine with the 3 link mid arm setup. Works great, no un-even brake dive or things like that - though he has a d30, so not the best brakes in the world anyhow.
He still drives his to the trails, so it sees time at 75mph as well as crawling at 1 mph...



With the OEM mounts on an XJ, I'd not recommend that anyone remove an upper link.


edit:

Alex - make sure that in no way does the 7100 EVER limit your compression travel... I blew the bottom caps off mine from bottoming out once. They never stopped working, but it never looked right. the 7100's dont have the nice bottom pad on them like the Fox's do, so you cant run shaft bump stops either.
Make sure to set your bump stops for both straight compression, AND articulation compression.

HTH

Currie sells that axle end JJ with a 1/2" bolt if strength is what your worried about.

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

i had that issue. looked fine when mounted, but axle wrap toasted them. good thing i ran cheapo shocks then.

i couldn't run the travel shock I needed using the factory body side mounts and keeping the bottom of the shock alove the bottom of the axle tube. so I came up with this:

im expecting an improved, more stable ride over the fast stuff, but havent had a chance to test it out yet. shocks closest to the spring/tire= good

What are you doing on the other side and do you have a build thread?

 

[Ba-Riedo]

Do you have a shot of the upper mount?

-Alex

 

[ktm racer 419]

Do you have a shot of the upper mount?

-Alex

it's simply some 2x6 channel. I can't get pics of it without pulling up my floor. (fit the shock mounts under my gas tank tuck)

I must say it rode amazing this weekend on the trails. The shocks are simply edelbrock ias (the cheap ones that were on sale for like 20 bucks a few months ago) they are only an 8" shock but the length is perfect for me (4" lift with 36's and plenty of bumpstopping) I was pretty amazed at how smooth it was floating over the rocks on the access trails. usually it feels like my jeep is going to fall apart. less body roll as well.

 

[mjd99xjC]

Hey KTM, This looks like exactly what Ive been searching hours for. Trying to redo my rear shock mounting situation for a good mix of go quick (i cant say fast after seeing these guys nice rigs) and crawling. Can you describe the top mount a little better? And maybe a pic of that lower mount from the inside? Im wondering how they handle some flex? Are you using a standard bushing at the top?

 

[ktm racer 419]

Hey KTM, This looks like exactly what Ive been searching hours for. Trying to redo my rear shock mounting situation for a good mix of go quick (i cant say fast after seeing these guys nice rigs) and crawling. Can you describe the top mount a little better? And maybe a pic of that lower mount from the inside? Im wondering how they handle some flex? Are you using a standard bushing at the top?

both are just poly bushings with a metal sleeve. they are mounted parralel to the axle tube. I havent seen this type of shock mount done before on an xj, but it felt like it would be a really good option for me.

The upper mount is simply a 2" x 1/4"thick channel (1.5" inside width) that the shock eye slides into. this is welded to a piece of 3/16" angle that comes down behind the shock mount and is welded to the frame where i plated it with some 1/8" im planning on plating the whole area but i needed a shock option quick and used what i had.

i wasn't aiming for the big flex this time around. I wanted something that would keep my axle under more control and was able to take hard hits with ease. but much to my surprise i have the same flex even with the re 3.5" leaf pack with a couple re 4.5" leaves thrown in. My thinking was the axle wrap put more stress on the bushings than the flex so thats why i mounted the bushing eyes the way I did.

a couple "issues" i noticed with this deisgn:

1- the shock body does "kiss" the frame at full droop. but my front shocks mounted in the factory locations actually bend at full droop from hitting the body, so i'm not worried about it in back.

2- i thought i would bottom out the shock body on the lower mount i made. but much to my surprise it fits perfect. you can't bring them in anymore than i did or the body will hit the frame too much for my liking. if you run more lift than me or a shorter shock you could probably get away with mounting the shock higher up on the spring plates.

also since those pics were taken my leaf packs are a little shorter and i added some 2" hitch tubing to the factory bumpstop location and i wouldn't change a thing back there now

 

[Ba-Riedo]

I still haven't decided on what shocks I am going to get, now I am going to be running a HP 44 front and my 8.8 out back. My jeep will probably see some desert/ dune time this year and I would like be able to go fast and jump it without major issues. I am considering air shocks up front, but haven't really decided yet. How are they for speed and jumping? Is there anything I should know about using them on a DD?

-Alex

 

[Goatman]

I still haven't decided on what shocks I am going to get, now I am going to be running a HP 44 front and my 8.8 out back. My jeep will probably see some desert/ dune time this year and I would like be able to go fast and jump it without major issues. I am considering air shocks up front, but haven't really decided yet. How are they for speed and jumping? Is there anything I should know about using them on a DD?

-Alex

If you're really considering air shocks, think about the ORI's. They are proven on DD's, proven on sand buggies, proven in the rocks, proven in XRRA competition, and a handful of rigs ran them in KOH. We don't yet know how they will hold up for a much longer desert race, but they will certainly hold up for any prerunning, trail running, and daily driving. Much more stable than air shocks which helps a lot at speed and on the street.

 

[northwestxj]

I kind of like this idea but want to clarify on a couple of things. First, you're saying that you cut out the floor for the shock to come through and mount to the 2x6 box on the inside of the XJ right? Then you tied the box tubing into the frame by welding a piece down from the box tubing, to the plate on the frame? Did you weld the box tubing to the floor as well?

Lastly, I just went out and looked at my rig and it seems like the shocks will be mounted at a pretty noticeable angle due to the lower mount placement. I have always heard its bad to have the shocks mount at this ( \ ) angle as the shocks will bind throughout their travel. What do you think about this? Is it just not enough angle that it doesn't matter?

 

[Ba-Riedo]

If you're really considering air shocks, think about the ORI's. They are proven on DD's, proven on sand buggies, proven in the rocks, proven in XRRA competition, and a handful of rigs ran them in KOH. We don't yet know how they will hold up for a much longer desert race, but they will certainly hold up for any prerunning, trail running, and daily driving. Much more stable than air shocks which helps a lot at speed and on the street.

Wow, 1 of those costs nearly twice as much as a set of 2.5 air shocks from what I just found...

-Alex

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

Is matt selling his axles?

 

[Ba-Riedo]

Is matt selling his axles?

Different 44 with CTMS, alloys, dedenbear knuckles...

-Alex

 

[WaXJ_Skier]

Different 44 with CTMS, alloys, dedenbear knuckles...

-Alex

what gearing?

 

[Ba-Riedo]

what gearing?

Everything will be 5.13's by the end of it.

-Alex

 

[DieselSJ]

i had that issue. looked fine when mounted, but axle wrap toasted them. good thing i ran cheapo shocks then.

i couldn't run the travel shock I needed using the factory body side mounts and keeping the bottom of the shock alove the bottom of the axle tube. so I came up with this:

im expecting an improved, more stable ride over the fast stuff, but havent had a chance to test it out yet. shocks closest to the spring/tire= good

Those bumps aren't going to last very long. A couple hits and that plate is gonna fold. Cool concept though.

 

[ktm racer 419]

Those bumps aren't going to last very long. A couple hits and that plate is gonna fold. Cool concept though.

-sigh-

i have had those in there for 3 years and they are as straight as the day they were put in.

and they have been landed on HARD. and when i say hard, i mean airbag poppin in yo face hard.

 

[HeavyMetal]

guess im another guy with more than a "couple hits" on the same setup, and good to go