stealth908
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sheppard AFB, TX
rockjockphatts said:ok, so I'm not really going to screw anything up...I've read, in different posts here, that the increased levels of phosphorus and zinc accelerate the wear of the catalytic converter, however, I like the idea of 1) a thicker oil, 2) an oil that protects my engine better, unlike modern SM grade oil, and 3) I want an oil with some detergent to help clean the engine (I know diesel oil has more detergent in it)
Bad idea?
No, not a bad idea. Run it. I am not just a bottle reader. I have built a couple dozen engines in my 31 years on the planet. I always do the same thing to them. Lightly lube the bearings with 5w30 moly lube the cam, pre-lube with 5w30, drain, breakin with 5w30, and 2 cans of GM EOS for 20 minutes, drain, 500 miles on Rotella, drain, 2000 miles on Rotella. Same ritual every time since my first engine back in 96. It is still running great in my dad's 69 C10. My race car engines get this treatment, as well as engines built for friends. I never have any problems... period. If the engine is a roller cam, I use Mobil1 10w30.
This article refers to a cam lobe wiping p[roblem that most turbo buick folks have. The #3 exhaust lobe is at a different angle than the others. This wiping problem has not been an issue until recently. Most believe it's because of the reduction in oil additives.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/176385-article-cam-failures-car-craft.html
This article is very good. It explains everything you need to know about oil, cams, additives, etc.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/oil_summary.html