SFR PREMIUM 1-Ton Steering Kits

[StinkyFab]

I've been talking about this kit over on my Lab Rat build thread, but wanted to officially announce it here. We are now proud to introduce our new Premium 1-Ton Steering kits. We're also offering special introductory pricing while we ramp up production!

So what makes it "Premium"?

• 1.5" diameter solid 7075 aluminum drag link and tie rod can flex without permanently bending.
• We supply only MOOG Problem Solver Tie rod ends, not the no-name cheap stuff like everyone else.
• Higher quality Tie Rod ends include bushing style boots to reduce tie-rod roll
• Strategically placed wrench flats to add track bar bolt clearance.
• Available UTK or OTK

Here's a quick video showing the features of our new kit.


For those who want to do a different style steering setup we also offer custom made tie rods and drag links with a variety of thread options for heims or TRE's. Head over to www.stinkyfab.com for all the details.

 

[StinkyFab]

We get a lot of questions about the Aluminum links, as many are not familiar with aluminum being used in this way. 7075 is a high grade structural aluminum that allows it to be used in this application, and actually be far more durable in terms of impact than the typical .250 wall DOM steel. 7075 has a lot of elasticity, meaning it can bend really far before permanently deforming. For your tie-rod this means when you run into a rock, it'll flex, then straighten back out. It also means if you're running one of those extra thick diff covers that creates a clearance issue, it's not a big deal. The tie rod just flexes, then flexes back.

In addition the aluminum requires no paint, will not rust, is lighter than steel, and just plain looks cool. If you drag it on rocks it will scratch, but so does steel. We've been running aluminum suspension and steering links in competition for over a decade and they have proven to be a great choice in terms of durability. Both 4643 and 4696 KOH stock class XJs are now running our Aluminum steering parts as well.

Here's the video of me demonstrating how much flex these things can take without bending.

 

[Luke95]

Please forgive my ignorance but how does this compare to 375 wall tubing? And is it able to be permanently bent (to clear the massive diff/ cover on a ub Dana sixty?)

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[StinkyFab]

A lot of that depends on the diameter of the tubing and the alloy. Since that's not really a common size I can't say I have a direct comparison, but I can tell you for sure the Aluminum is a crap load lighter. I can also say that the tie rod we replaced on the StinkBug was 1.5"x.250 wall DOM and it was bent in half a trail. The aluminum one in the video has been on there for the 6 years since with no troubles. As for bending for clearance, that's not something we can do with the aluminum, and I'm not sure if it would be a good idea or not. I've never seen a 60 that didn't have long enough steering arms to clear the cover, but have seen the issue on a 30 and 44. In a lot of those cases we have just let it rub and flex a little at full lock, as it doesn't do any damage and you can't even feel it in the wheel. 4696 is like this at full turn.

 

[Luke95]

Well currently my 1.75 rubs at 1 turn either way mounted over the knuckle. Under it barely and I mean like .075 clearance.

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[cal]

On my 44, the aluminium steering hits the diff cover when I turn.

It just bends around it, and straitens back out when I go strait again. Has never been a problem.

 

[StinkyFab]

Well currently my 1.75 rubs at 1 turn either way mounted over the knuckle. Under it barely and I mean like .075 clearance.

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1.75 is huge. on a stock front axle even 1.25 will just barely touch the track bar bolt if you haven't adjusted the right steering stop any, and that's UTK. This is why we put the wrench flats in that area and make them a little longer than normal, it gives you a bit more turn. I'm also planning to include a button head track bar bolt in the UTK kits to give a little more clearance there as well.

OTK is another ball game. Jeep never intended to have steering in that space, so they put all sorts of things in the way. There are a lot of advantages of going OTK, but you kind of have to accept that there is going to be modification necessary. The biggest thing is that you'll need to relocate the track bar for proper geometry. Clearance with spring buckets becomes an issue and the stock sway bar mounts are most likely going to have to come off.

If you're running a non-stock axle then everything fitment wise is kinda up in the air. We have a kit for custom applications where we'll cut the drag link and tie rod to whatever length you need, but since there are dozens of possible axles, and hundreds of different setups, that's really a kit for someone who knows how they want things to fit and isn't expecting an instruction sheet.

 

[Luke95]

I mean I am not expecting step by step. And I won't be able to run it then, just do to clearance issues.

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[StinkyFab]

A couple weekends ago I headed out to the Hammers for some testing and got some video of me abusing the aluminum tie rod on the StinkBug. This is the first tie rod we ever built, roughly 6 years ago. I have a tendency to drive by braille so it has seen a lot of this kinda action.

 

[GordoSmasho]

Is this kit able to be run as an inverted y kit similar to the currie kit.

 

[StinkyFab]

No, it's not. I would have preferred to do it that way, but there isn't a commonly available TRE with enough rotation in it to work.

 

[StinkyFab]

Bringing this back up as I decided to continue the special intro pricing a while longer! Order now while the savings lasts!