running 37s on a DD?

[cracker]

thanks for the link it helped alot...

also in all of the threads that i have read. people say that one axle is good for tires from 35-36" tires and then they say that you need a whole different axle to run 37s.. would i be better to stick with a 36" tire? its right in the middle of 35 and 37? and i was considering running TSLs and they dont come in 37s. would i have to do the same amount of work to run the 36s? i want a capable rig that is reliable..

Stick with the 36 if you must go that big. If you want a capable rig that is reliable....YES


I know there are PLENTY of people that use the stock axles to run this stuff but IMO I don't think it is reliable. I broke my Dana 30 axle 4 times with 33s. It is obvious to me that the driver has a large part to play in how a rig is handled. You said you only have been doing light to moderate trails for one and a half years. It is the ones with LESS experience (you and I) that need the better equipment to make up for our lack of experience.

 

[2000Cherokee]

now the brackets that you mentioned in one of your posts do you have a link the them on the Rubicon or claytons site? i looked and i couldnt find anything..

and in your opinion would a D44 and an 8.8 in the rear be the best "low cost" set up for me to run?

 

[sgtmack]

http://www.rockcontrol.com/Fabrication/fabrication.htm This will give you an idea of what the axle brackets are. Rear spring perches and are easy to get also.

I think you'll find most people here will recommend a waggy d44 front and 8.8 rear for up to 35" tires. You could probably get away with 37's, but you run the risk of breaking more often. But if you want the least expensive, easiest route, that would be it.

 

[cracker]

now the brackets that you mentioned in one of your posts do you have a link the them on the Rubicon or claytons site? i looked and i couldnt find anything..

and in your opinion would a D44 and an 8.8 in the rear be the best "low cost" set up for me to run?

Another rear option would be to get a D44 out of a earlier XJ that had the tow package and thay would be a direct bolt in. (I am going to hear total shit about this one but..) I think a 8.8 is a tad stronger than the 44 in the rear. The splines and shafts are bigger. Someone is going to chime in and say 'the 8.8 is a c-clip axle' but you will have no trouble with the c-clip. The only possible trouble with the 8.8" is the housing needs to be welded to the diff and you don't want to run a traction bar on it. It has been known to fail a few times with a traction bar attached. I love my 8.8 and it has been real good to me so far.

Claytons does not show any brackets on his site. His site is http://www.claytonoffroad.com You have to call him to get the brackets. They come with Currie Johnny Joints and seem to work well. I used a Claytons Brackets and the Rubicon Express bridge to complete my project. Read http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57304 for more info on what I did.

The Rubicon Express site is a little vague but you can have your local dealer call them to get what you need. Try
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=218

Good Luck.

-Cracker

 

[XJ_ranger]

look

buying a lift kit wont do you a damn thing if you are going to swap axles in the front...

at the same time you will probably want to re-design the suspension, and axle mounts and the front ends of the kits are designed for the stock axle mounts...

best bang for your buck:

buy a 1974-1979 f-150 parts truck (f-250/f-100 works as well)
this will get you a front suspension with longarms (in a manner of speaking) complete with a stonger axle

running mud? full width is fine...

then the rear end comes from the same truck -the ford 9" and would be the arguably the strongest centersection on the market... and the stock
31 spline shafts found in the f-150's will hold 37's and if you blow a shaft, might as well spend $3k on that axle and run a truehi9 with a 35? spline ARB and some Superior shafts and new gears.
the f-250's would have the d60 in the rear which is a very strong rear end...

then you need leaf springs
coils
shackles
bumpstops
slip yoke eliminator
new rear drivesahft
custom long ass brake lines
might want to re-gear the t-case or buy a new one in leu of SYE
skid plates
bumpers
winch
rocker protection
engine/tranny skid
gas tank armor
tow points frnt and rear
steering linkage (track bar, drag link, tie rod, TRE's, knuckles, hi-steer arms, jamn nuts, misalignment bushings)

if you have gone this far - the next step is a cage to protect yourself

and dont forget all the misc costs that come up -
like 100 for new ball joints in the front end
or new bushings for your radius arms
or a new set of e-brake cables because the stock ones are too short.

this is something that will nickle and dime you to death

and dont forget about all the tools that you will end up picking up along the way because you need them or that tool would make your job really easy...

sticking with 33's would eliminate all that....
stock frnt axle and a chrysler 8.25 with 29 splin e shafts would hold you fine

say that you do all of this and it turns out really cheap - somewhere in the 8000 range - you slap your 37's on and measure your new diff height from the ground and find that you have the same diff clearance as your buddy with a RE 3.5" lift kit and 33's with stock axles, stock driveshafts, stock steering, and probably 3000 total (including purchase price) into his rig and you think to yourself - why?

the bigger stronger axles also have bigger center sections... a d30 had more clearance than a d44...

just keep in mind that running 37's vs 33's only raises the centerline of your axle 2"

is it worth that to you?

to me it is....

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

If you want reliable do 33s on your stock axles, 35s are the limit but ok for dd or in the mud.
d44 front and ford 9in full width would be great for 37s or up to 39s if the axles are upgraded gives you better steering options over your stock front.

d60front, d70 rear, 14bolt rear 38-44s, i am worried of breaking my stock d60 with 42s in the rocks behiond a v8 and dual cases but the 4.0 with stock case didnt have the power to brake any thing before.

if i was you id run the stock axles 35s and get some t-case gears 4:1 and 4.88 geaers in the axles and detroits front and rear, 6-8in lift long arm and be done with it.

 

[snacob14]

you can also upgrade your shafts in your 30 to yukon chromolys and upgrade your ujoints. my buddy and axleboy enterprises in stl runs this setup in his 98 grand with the 5.2 on 35's and hasn't broken them yet. He has had many wheelie bombs also. the 30 can be strong you just have to drop some cash to make it that way. my 98 is getting an 8.8 and 30 setup right now with 35" tires and 4.88 gears. it looks big and is very capable. i wanted to keep it streetable but still be able to pack in the wife camping gear and go out on a weekend trip to the trails and it works great for that as well as driving back and forth to work and school everyday. my bud runs 36" sx's with a set of 4.88's and he loves it. good luck bro. and if you have any Q's just keep on asking.

 

[Ramsey]

then just get a rock ring or some other diff protection, it'll be hell of a lot cheaper

.. and alot of the trails around me are mud with alot of smaller rock scattered here and there that you cannot see. and i dont want to catch one on my diff and screw it up..

 

[BrettM]

a lot of good advice here.

my 2 cents, for 37s, use a 44 front with alloy shafts if you want to lock it, and stock shafts if no locker. in the big, dry west coast rocks 37s will break a built 44, but you'll be just fine in mud. full-width or not, depends on how tight your trails are, backspacing can do a lot also. for the rear a 31 spline 9" will do just fine.

Get the axles out of a late 70s F150 (hp44 and 9"), modify and use the radius arms and go from there. It's been done and documented dozens of times.

gear it LOW, 5.13s or better. you may also want a stroker (as Goatman eluded to) to help push around those big meats.

then start considering things like unibody reinforcements, etc

 

[Matt S.]

listen to the XJ Gods (Goatman, Okie Teri, BrettM, Jes, Crash and the other Moderators).

-Cracker

Bwahahahahaha :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


Sorry.. couldn't resist!!!

 

[2000Cherokee]

now in one of the first posts someone had mentioned using a TJ D44 in the front as it is a direct swap in. would this not be a good idea? even if i beefed it up as much as a d44 in the rear(ie.alloy shafts,gears and such)?

 

[Ramsey]

i would go for a xj 44 front that way you dont have to redo brackets

 

[2000Cherokee]

i didnt know that XJs came with D44 in the front.. i thought they only had them in the rear...

also where is the best place to buy parts for upgrading axles?

 

[XJ_ranger]

i didnt know that XJs came with D44 in the front.. i thought they only had them in the rear...

also where is the best place to buy parts for upgrading axles?

the front XJ 44's were sold in brazil and other south american countries in TJ's...

give Currie a call and talk to them about your plans:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/

the best place to buy parts is up to you...
the cheapest parts are not the best
buying directly from manufacturers is sometimes more expensive than you can get them somewhere else...

you need to become very fermiliar with this:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?
and make your own decisions on vendors, products, and how you want to set your rig up.

i suguest reading up on all the things that i listed off in my first post in this thread and learning what each one is, the proper setup, different products out there for each, and who/how it has been custom made before...

remember that if you swap axles, you will be looking at custom:
front axle bracketry
steering
trackbar
driveshaft geometry

as well as most everything else on your rig...

so buying a U0turn steering kit for a d30 will not work with a full width d44 or d60 or toy 8" steering axle....


good luck

 

[OT]

Bwahahahahaha :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:


Sorry.. couldn't resist!!!

I know, right?

 

[2000Cherokee]

i have an email out to the people at currie. as of right now i am looking at a D60 in the rear and a 9" in the front. would the D60 and 9" be a good solid combo to run? and what would the best steering for the front be? i searched on there site and i couldnt find any steering kit ..

Any one know roughly how much it would cost to buy a whole axle from them with everything? cant find any prices on a front axle.. id rather buy the whole axle from them and pay the extra and have them assemble it than try and find a reputable shop around me to do it. since there are no offorad or performance shops that i could find..

i found a price on the D60 but it doesnt say if it comes with gears

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1006

 

[OT]

i have an email out to the people at currie. as of right now i am looking at a D60 in the rear and a 9" in the front. would the D60 and 9" be a good solid combo to run? and what would the best steering for the front be? i searched on there site and i couldnt find any steering kit ..

Any one know roughly how much it would cost to buy a whole axle from them with everything? cant find any prices on a front axle.. id rather buy the whole axle from them and pay the extra and have them assemble it than try and find a reputable shop around me to do it. since there are no offorad or performance shops that i could find..

i found a price on the D60 but it doesnt say if it comes with gears

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1006

That's a good strong rearend.
No the gears don't come with.
A 9" is a good front end as well.
That would be an ideal setup for 37"s.

 

[David Taylor]

i have an email out to the people at currie. as of right now i am looking at a D60 in the rear and a 9" in the front. would the D60 and 9" be a good solid combo to run? and what would the best steering for the front be? i searched on there site and i couldnt find any steering kit ..

Any one know roughly how much it would cost to buy a whole axle from them with everything? cant find any prices on a front axle.. id rather buy the whole axle from them and pay the extra and have them assemble it than try and find a reputable shop around me to do it. since there are no offorad or performance shops that i could find..

i found a price on the D60 but it doesnt say if it comes with gears

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1006

Don't forget brakes and a locker ,plus set up

 

[ImGonnaSnap]

10" of lift and you think you're actually gonna have to cut?

As far as the height goes, no, but the tires will still be too wide.
Edit: to clarify, those in that picture are only 33 inch tires.

 

[2000Cherokee]

now i just have to wait for them to email me back.. i want to make sure that i get every part that i need.. not that ill be ordering soon but hopefully by the spring ill have them