Rugged ridge adj. track bar

[Demonoid369]

So I've had the RR track bar for a couple of years. I'm on a 3.5" short arm lift.
This is what it looks like.

But upon installing some nitro tubes the other day I noticed that my suspension wasn't drooping to the maximum it could

My shocks are long enough to drop more and I have space everywhere else to allow to drop and articulate more till I noticed the frame side of my track bar

It's binding. A lot lol I know on long arms your suspension is able to drop down in a more straight line than a short arm which drops in a arc. So the main question leading to this is has anyone swapped out the upper adjustable end for a flex joint like a JJ? If so what is the thread and shank size to look up a flex joint? Or maybe a heim joint? Thoughts?

 

[Tim_MN]

I don't see how a double shear track bar can bind at the frame mount. What signs or symptoms lead you to conclude that you are not getting good flex ?

What do you have for upper control arms ?

Here is my 00 at 3.5" of lift, IRO double shear track bar, and some decent flex.


.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Uppers or drag link . Disconnect drag link and see if it keeps drooping. Then try uppers next.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Is the trackbar binding on anything ?

 

[Demonoid369]

Hopefully this pic works. But if you look the track bar itself, it is tilted compared to the frame side track bar mount.

Which is what leaves me to believe there is binding going on. As my suspension drops, the axle is arcing backwards and not allowing the track bar to move up and down with the frame mount but down and backwards.
Anyone understand what I'm saying? Lol I know I've said it before but I suck at explaining clearly.

Also I have stock uppers but they show also having room to drop more, I'll try and disconnect the track bar and see if it drops more. But if you look at my drag link, the pitman tre isn't even maxed and the drag link end is just like all the other gm/Chevy style t-steering

 

[xcm]

Your asking in mod tech, the home of "bah you don't need bumpstops!" ... The double shear tracbars don't bind comment was particularly lol inducing... lol


Yes, bushings have less miss alignment than heims or cartridge joints.... Yes this will limit your travel at the ends of the spectrum...

I can't help you with the specific thread sizes though..... Sorry,
But yes, some of us understand.

 

[WB9YZU]

Seems to me the symptom is due to the use of poly bushings.
Poly bushings do not allow for angular deflection of the joint, which makes for a stiff race suspension, but one which will not allow any "give" in the alignment of parts.

 

[Tim_MN]

... The double shear tracbars don't bind comment was particularly lol inducing... lol

If you are such a suspension wizard, calculate the arc of the suspension so Demonoid can measure how far the track bar should travel. A simple poly bushing is not going to bind up several hundred pounds of axle. Poly bushing are available in different levels of hardness, so if the bushing is practically solid, a softer bushing could be installed.


Upper Control Arms with some sort of flex joint will surely allow for more flex than the stock control arms.

 

[xcm]

I don't claim to be a wizard, just someone who's spent time cycling an xj 4 link with panhard... Not rocket science, sorry if your offended.


I angle my bolts when fabricating tracbar brackets to allow more down travel, and this is just to keep the heim in the middle of it's misalignment at ride height... On a bushing I see this being even more important.... But on jeeps like that, heims are your friend.

 

[WB9YZU]

If you are such a suspension wizard, calculate the arc of the suspension so Demonoid can measure how far the track bar should travel. A simple poly bushing is not going to bind up several hundred pounds of axle. Poly bushing are available in different levels of hardness, so if the bushing is practically solid, a softer bushing could be installed.


Upper Control Arms with some sort of flex joint will surely allow for more flex than the stock control arms.

Tim, the OP isn't looking for Flex, but Droop.

A number of trackbar manufactures, including OEM make a trackbar with a flex joint at the frame end. It does make a difference.

As you mentioned, Flexjoints at one end or the other on the arms will allow more free movement of the suspension up and down. Flex Joints on both ends will allow twisting that will increase flex and reduce metal fatigue at the axle and frame mounts.

Unfortunately OP, I do not have a part number for a joint which will screw on to the bar you have. You could sell the bar you have to someone who isn't looking for as much droop, and get one that does

Then upgrade the rest of the arms with ones with flex joint ends.

It will droop and flex like crazy.

Or get a long arm setup, get the droop, get the flex, and get a better ride

... You may require bumpstops :doh:

 

[md21722]

I don't see how a double shear track bar can bind at the frame mount. What signs or symptoms lead you to conclude that you are not getting good flex ?

What do you have for upper control arms ?

Here is my 00 at 3.5" of lift, IRO double shear track bar, and some decent flex.


.

What front bumper is that?

 

[Demonoid369]

Tim, the OP isn't looking for Flex, but Droop.

A number of trackbar manufactures, including OEM make a trackbar with a flex joint at the frame end. It does make a difference.

As you mentioned, Flexjoints at one end or the other on the arms will allow more free movement of the suspension up and down. Flex Joints on both ends will allow twisting that will increase flex and reduce metal fatigue at the axle and frame mounts.

Unfortunately OP, I do not have a part number for a joint which will screw on to the bar you have. You could sell the bar you have to someone who isn't looking for as much droop, and get one that does

Then upgrade the rest of the arms with ones with flex joint ends.

It will droop and flex like crazy.

Or get a long arm setup, get the droop, get the flex, and get a better ride

... You may require bumpstops :doh:

Lol ya I already do have bumpstops front and rear, the LCA are the rubicon express 3.5" lift fix length with a flex joint on one end. And I'd go long arm but I plan to go mid arm instead later(way later lol) I just want to make sure my suspension is properly moving and with not much bind. I'm not looking for max flex I just want my suspension to articulate properly. Hopefully if given a day off I can try and see what the thread size is and make go heim as I don't know if there is such a smaller size flex joint for the frame side.

 

[Tim_MN]

Don't expect the world from a 3.5" short arm lift. You can, as suggested, install a flex joint on the track bar and should get some upper control arms with flex joints for added droop/flex. No single part of the suspension, is the whole solution. Drop brackets for the short arms, or better yet a mid/long arm suspension is the way to go.

 

[Demonoid369]

Update and some knowledge.
Well I got a email back from rugged ridge. The adjustable piece is m22 1.5 thread. Does Johnny joints or heims come in metric sizes!?!?!

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Update and some knowledge.
Well I got a email back from rugged ridge. The adjustable piece is m22 1.5 thread. Does Johnny joints or heims come in metric sizes!?!?!

I know that heim joints come in metric sizes, but I do not know how LARGE they go. m22 is very close to 7/8" You could always run a tap to the TB and run a 7/8 heim/other joint. Maybe cut/sleeve and mod the TB for a 7/8 or 3/4 weld in bung. Or, ditch the RR TB for something better.