rod bearing knock? would like some opinions please

[85xjwoody]

For a motor replacement, how about a '95 YJ 2.5L with 5 speed and the EFI harness? Had about 70,000 miles when pulled (they put 36" tires on with 3.54 gears an "didn't have enough power" so they pulled it and are putting in a Chev V8) Oil pan has a dent (from being slid around the back of the truck while moving it)

No fuel injection for me. Staying with the carb. Thanks for the offer though. As far as the oil filter goes I use Baldwin filters. I quit using fram a long time ago. So I know the filter was not the problem. Thanks for the help. Any other ideas out there?

Kim.

 

[carnuck]

Motor is the same from carb to EFI except there is no hole for the fuel pump and the intake ports in the head were raised up along with a more powerful factory cam added.

 

[5-90]

Take a piece of fairly stiff copper wire and run it gently into the oiling hole for that journal - see if it goes in easily.

If the trouble is just on a single bearing, I'd suspect blockage of the oiling holes (PLEASE tell me you don't use Pennzoil or Quaker State!) and you'd have to at least clean out the crankshaft before you can put on the new bearings.

I find AR-15 "Gas Tube Mops" quite useful for this - think "foot-long pipe cleaner."

Also, you'll want to pull the crank if you're going to do this - it just makes the job so much easier when you can turn the work about at will, and have it on a nice workbench instead of dropping stuff in your face while you're working. Good time to change the front & rear mains as well...

5-90

 

[old_man]

I originally had the 2.5L carb engine. I changed over to the tbi injection and it made a world of difference. Mileage went up to 28mpg with a lifted rig. II later went to a 4.7L stroker in the rig. I know both engines well, so if you get ready to do a swap and have any questions, scream.

Like everybody has said, it really depends on the crank journals. With the amount of miles, I can guarantee that the .001 oversized bearings will not be too tight, the question is will they be tight enough. Cleaning up any minor scuffing on the journals and doing the bearings will get you a rig that will run. It may not last for 100k but one way or another, it should last for a trail rig. Just make sure that the crank hasn't been turned before.

 

[85xjwoody]

Take a piece of fairly stiff copper wire and run it gently into the oiling hole for that journal - see if it goes in easily.

If the trouble is just on a single bearing, I'd suspect blockage of the oiling holes (PLEASE tell me you don't use Pennzoil or Quaker State!) and you'd have to at least clean out the crankshaft before you can put on the new bearings.

I find AR-15 "Gas Tube Mops" quite useful for this - think "foot-long pipe cleaner."

Also, you'll want to pull the crank if you're going to do this - it just makes the job so much easier when you can turn the work about at will, and have it on a nice workbench instead of dropping stuff in your face while you're working. Good time to change the front & rear mains as well...

5-90

5-90, you have been alot of help to me today and I thank you very much. I try to search as much as I can and come up with alot just not all questions answered.
I will try to get some copper wire and clean out the journals and also clean up everything as much as I can from underneath. I won't be taking anything else out so no changing anything else. I don't want to mess with something that still works good. This engine had all seals along with front and rear bearings replaced before I put the engine in earlier this spring. I will have enough work ahead of me with the rebuild I want to do this engine will get the one rod bearing replacement with a good cleanup. Not much else going to be done to it. Just need to get a three day trail ride out of it and I think that it will last that with only the one bearing replacement. If not, than oh well.
For oil I have been using mobil and mobil 5000 for awhile now with baldwin filter. Again thank you for the help.

Kim.

 

[85xjwoody]

I originally had the 2.5L carb engine. I changed over to the tbi injection and it made a world of difference. Mileage went up to 28mpg with a lifted rig. II later went to a 4.7L stroker in the rig. I know both engines well, so if you get ready to do a swap and have any questions, scream.

Like everybody has said, it really depends on the crank journals. With the amount of miles, I can guarantee that the .001 oversized bearings will not be too tight, the question is will they be tight enough. Cleaning up any minor scuffing on the journals and doing the bearings will get you a rig that will run. It may not last for 100k but one way or another, it should last for a trail rig. Just make sure that the crank hasn't been turned before.

Thanks old man for the help. I will be staying with the carb. Simple for me to work on and I like it for some odd reason. I have given this engine hell and it just takes it. I only have a couple of vac lines running everything and it runs great! I don't think that I would want to put myself through a 4.0 swap. I would get alot more gray hair than I want and already have. I will be getting the .001 bearing and plastiguage it to see what I need. I would like the engine to last awhile after I replace the bearing but I only need it for one or two weekends so this engine don't matter to me. Have alot of things to put on over the winter so it can sit.
Any suggestions on a rebuild for the 2.5? Eagle mentioned to me that a .030 on the rebuild would be a good start. Anything else come to mind? I have over two grand to stick into this if I want to so let me know what you think. I want to do something different with this motor than what has been done to others. Thanks again for the help.

Kim.

 

[the_bandit87]

Well, for starters, some one mentioned that the Fuel Injected 2.5 uses a hotter cam. I can't think why it wouldn't work in your motor. You could go .30 over like you said, maybe port the head, somebody has to make headers for the 2.5, and maybe get a nice exhaust. Just wondering old man, but what's wrong with penzoil and Quaker state. I don't know what kind of oil has been in it before, but my Rig has had Quaker state for about 4 years now (Its had maybe 6 klicks put on it in that time, but has been run regularly). Sorry to hijack your thread woody.

 

[85xjwoody]

Well, for starters, some one mentioned that the Fuel Injected 2.5 uses a hotter cam. I can't think why it wouldn't work in your motor. You could go .30 over like you said, maybe port the head, somebody has to make headers for the 2.5, and maybe get a nice exhaust. Just wondering old man, but what's wrong with penzoil and Quaker state. I don't know what kind of oil has been in it before, but my Rig has had Quaker state for about 4 years now (Its had maybe 6 klicks put on it in that time, but has been run regularly). Sorry to hijack your thread woody.

Thanks for the info. A couple of things to look into. As far as Penzoil and Quaker State go, they all around are not good. I have heard nothing but bad things about them.

Kim.