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rockkrawler updates

Matt98XJ said:
What is the spring rate on the 6.5" and 8" coils? I like the RE coils because they are pretty stiff. If they are softer, I'll probably just stick with the RE coils.
softer
 
kid4lyf said:

In the market for new front springs myself.

Do they give more than the advertised lift like the REs?
 
Rustys also has a pretty soft spring rate for their coils... or at least they used to. I have some 3 year old coils, and they are great.
 
Dirk Pitt said:
In the market for new front springs myself.

Do they give more than the advertised lift like the REs?
Couldn't tell you.
There are so many suspension and chassis changes on my rig I couldn't begin to guess how much lift I have.
 
RK coils are soft, but they are made to give advertised lift with a winch and winch bumper attached. There for if you do not have these items then your lift will be higher.

I had thier Gen I kit first..don't ask :wierd:

A short time later I upgraded to the Gen II kit....MUCHO GRANDE better :clap: The Gen III kit is suppose to be the same design, only with bigger tube dia., and bigger joints. Now the X-Factor kits, I'm on the bench about those.
 
the x factor i believe is the lastest kit which i have and he is absolutely correct its bigger dia piping and its bigger joints. The kit is heavy duty. each lower control arm weighs around 23lbs i put it on a scale but i don't remember exactly so just to give you an idea its heavy duty. I can comfirm that you can bolt them in place and then have someone weld it in place then go home and finish the install. Thats exactly what i had joe do made my life a whole lot easier. I do not recommend you put the kit together then drive somewhere and have them weld it in place not a good idea. But like everyone says there new kits are amazing.

If you have any questions call rk they really are great people.

Matt

ps if you want any pictures just ask ill be more than glad to take some for you.

on another note to the person asking about lift and if he can do it or not. I had the re 4.5 super flex so i rode at about 5 inches. I hated the fact that they gave you non adjustable lowers and uppers so my springs would get all bent outta shape when i flexed. So i bought the kit. Its tight with my lift at 5 i practically have the arms all the way closed. but im almost a thousand percent positive if you have 4 inches of lift you can run it with setting the lca's all the way tight and then adjusting with the upper arm. Once again if you wanna know for sure, call rk they will tell you but i believe it says right on there site 4 inches and up this kit will work with.
 
Hasta ....has anyone seen the TnTcustoms.com Y-arms? they are a little more in price...but better clearance... nothing to drag on... just curious about first hand knowledge...im going to be ordering one of these two kits in the next week....to go with the 8"s of lift im running now.... but everything up until this very thread....has been negative for the RK line...so i'm just wondering if the bad words came from GEN I products...not the newer stuff...

suggestions ideas....??? :wave:
 
come to think of it...would someone please send me a couple pics of their rides with this kit on it... i'd honestly like to see side pics on the street to seehow the arms looks while "resting"... i've seen plenty of flex shots... Thanks all..


[email protected]
 
matt6669 said:
I do not recommend you put the kit together then drive somewhere and have them weld it in place not a good idea. But like everyone says there new kits are amazing.

DO NOT just bolt it up with the arms and stuff and drive on it!! I did this to just pull the Jeep in and out of the shop before they were welded(one time, like 15 feet) and I bent on the brackets from the torque of the brakes!!

Mrburns said:
but everything up until this very thread....has been negative for the RK line...so i'm just wondering if the bad words came from GEN I products...not the newer stuff...

Yes all the negative comments were from the Gen1 stuff!! I know 2 diffrent people who were almost injured when they Gen1 stuff came apart on the High-way!!
 
Are for ground clearance, I didn't have any problems with it at Paragon last weekend running Black 2s and 3s!!!

Here are acouple side shots of the arms(My upper is mounted on the passanger side if your looking for it). The first is right after I got them installed, before I addressed the rear ride height(it sits level now)

3%20Untitled-3.jpg


RK2.jpg


RK1.jpg


As you can see, they dont really hang down that low, I only came down on them really hard once, and that was off a straight vertical ledge, and I just came down and drove straight off while sliding on the arms!
 
How come you put the torque arm on the passenger side?

Edit: Sorry about the double post. Crazy computer.
 
Yea, I thought the kit only came with one upper arm on the driver side... please explain, and anyone who has pictures of this kit, please post as much as you can.
 
I have the rockkrawler long arms and steering.I have about a 4.5 inch lift and 33, the suspension flexes like crazy. My brake lines are my limiting factor for now. Even with little lift I can drop out the front coils. I had to cut off my lower stock mounts before I could bolt up the long lowers. They work well, take the time on the install to do it right. My complaints are the first time I played on the rocks with long arms I blew apart the driverside heim on the lower arm front.(literaly blew apart) I called rk and they replaced it for free and said that is very strange, must have been a defect in the joint. with the lower lift my upper arm hits on my driveshaft. need longer bumpstops.
 
I run the upper arm on the passanger side because that axle I got was only setup to run an upper on the passanger side. It was setup for an XJ only running one arm. And since the lower mounts were 1-2in higher then normal mounts, when I flipped the upper mount I gained that extra 1-2in to keep the arms at the same angles to each other like they were normaly.

I didn't see any negative's to running the upper on the passanger side, and it seemed like the logical solution, rather then completely fabing an upper mount on the drivers side when the passanger side mount was already there.
 
I'm in the middle of my install now. Were you guys with the front long arms able to torque the torque arm bracket bolts to the specified 70-80 ft-lbs? When I tried to do that, it seemed like my uni-rails were crushing before I could get to the right torque. That's when I started to understand why some people recommend sleeving the rails before putting on this kit.
 
I have RE drop brackets now, and it looks like I'll have more clearance with the long arms. The frame just needs to be sleeved where the upper arm mounts, correct? That shouldn't be to much of a problem. I think I could use a 2x4 plate on each side just to distribute the pressure.
 
xjj33p3r said:
As far as the frame crushing in on itself, does it really affect anything in the end?

Probably not. It's just not the most fun thing to do. Even though I can't torque the bolts to spec, the uni-rails pushing out after being crushed a little should keep the nuts in place, plus the nuts they give you are nylock nuts.
 
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