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rock krawler 3 link....reviews

I am pretty good friends with Jeremy and Heather. I have been with them pretty much from "their" start (after they bought the company) and they are not part of RC in any way, shape, or form.

I have never had a problem getting through to someone there. I do know they have cut their staff back a good bit so that may have something to do with trying to get ahold of them.
 
Ya I just talked to Jeremy, he had several thoughts on how that idea started.

RK is in NO WAY the same company as RC!

To the guy with the issues, PM your info and some pictures and I'll have Jeremy get ahold of you!!
 
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The reson they are on the RC site, is because (and this is word for word from my email from Jeremy at RK), This is from back when Rough Country or Heckethorn Products wanted to try to go head to head with 4 Wheel Parts and start carrying everything under the sun. 4 Wheel Parts (Pro Comp) make their own lifts, but also sell MANY other company's lifts. Thats just how it happened.

RK and RC are NOT in any way shape or form the same company.
 
Ok all out there thanks very much for the help I spent some time today talking to jeremy and trying to iron my situation out his thoughts are simple after covering all my componets and looking at the angles of the arms... He said my height was good the arm angles are good it came down to shocks, Im currently running bilstein 5100s for the front they are for the tj or xj longarm lift 5-6" kits we figured out that RK shocks have internal bumpstops and they use the shocks to limit the uptravel... RK specs out the uptravel for their kit as being only 4" of up travel with the 4.5 kit and about the same for the 6" kit basically I have too much uptravel with my setup and just have to limit it by 1" more..As my stock bumpstops no longer make contact due to the axle rotating as it cycles my idea was to take hockey puck and a 1.5" hole saw and drill out the center and put the part I drilled out on top of the shaft just underneath the upper mount and use that to limit uptravel...
any other ideas ?? Jeremy suggested his bumpstops but my idea is cheaper to start with..

thanks all
themud
 
themud said:
Ok all out there thanks very much for the help I spent some time today talking to jeremy and trying to iron my situation out his thoughts are simple after covering all my componets and looking at the angles of the arms... He said my height was good the arm angles are good it came down to shocks, Im currently running bilstein 5100s for the front they are for the tj or xj longarm lift 5-6" kits we figured out that RK shocks have internal bumpstops and they use the shocks to limit the uptravel... RK specs out the uptravel for their kit as being only 4" of up travel with the 4.5 kit and about the same for the 6" kit basically I have too much uptravel with my setup and just have to limit it by 1" more..As my stock bumpstops no longer make contact due to the axle rotating as it cycles my idea was to take hockey puck and a 1.5" hole saw and drill out the center and put the part I drilled out on top of the shaft just underneath the upper mount and use that to limit uptravel...
any other ideas ?? Jeremy suggested his bumpstops but my idea is cheaper to start with..

thanks all
themud
Click to expand...

Sorry man but to me that still doesnt sound right... Back when I was running my HP30, RK 3link, RE ZJ 3.5" springs and 0.75" spacers I had around 5.5-6" of up travel and ZERO problems...

If you want to limit your uptravel here's a very simple way ... Either put some longer bumpstops on the axle... OR order some from RE or Daystary for the Upper post. I believe DC4wd.com sells them for like 25.00 shipped and they're 2" longer than the stock upper bumps.
 
themud said:
Ok all out there thanks very much for the help I spent some time today talking to jeremy and trying to iron my situation out his thoughts are simple after covering all my componets and looking at the angles of the arms... He said my height was good the arm angles are good it came down to shocks, Im currently running bilstein 5100s for the front they are for the tj or xj longarm lift 5-6" kits we figured out that RK shocks have internal bumpstops and they use the shocks to limit the uptravel... RK specs out the uptravel for their kit as being only 4" of up travel with the 4.5 kit and about the same for the 6" kit basically I have too much uptravel with my setup and just have to limit it by 1" more..As my stock bumpstops no longer make contact due to the axle rotating as it cycles my idea was to take hockey puck and a 1.5" hole saw and drill out the center and put the part I drilled out on top of the shaft just underneath the upper mount and use that to limit uptravel...
any other ideas ?? Jeremy suggested his bumpstops but my idea is cheaper to start with..

thanks all
themud
Click to expand...

Your way is a better solution than what jeremy suggested. You shouldn't use shocks as your primary bumpstop. I have their shocks...and they work great but I wouldn't rely on them 100% to stop the axle from uptravel.
 
sorry to bring this thread back up, but it is only 6 weeks old, so forgive me.

Can the new bolt-on RK brackets be installed over frame-stiffeners? I've got the TNT stiffeners, which are 3/16" thick. Since the new brackets bolt on, they look like they are formed to fit tightly around the framerail. Is there enough play in them to allow for the 3/16" plate to fit in on one side? I'd be bolting and welding these brackets on.

kenny
 
any pics? I'm not fully understanding what you mean by trimming the lip on the framerail. i assume you mean the unibody rail, not the stiffener? Also, why would I have to cut down the crush sleeves? If I'm essentially adding 3/16" thickness to the framerails, why wouldn't I need a longer crush sleeve?

FWIW, i've never seen the kit in person, and it's too late (and the weekend) to call RK, so I figured i'd ask. thanks for the response
 
my bad. Never saw you had a question, a little late but ill answer it anyways. You would have to cut down the inner crush sleaves on the inside of the frame rail, You would also have to trim the seam because with the fram stifiners would push the bracket out and it wouldnt clear the seam. Not really a big deal, it would only take a few mins with the sawzall. For the inner crush sleave you would need to cut it down 3/16" if your frame stifiners are that thickness...sorry again for the late reply.
 
xalexjx said:
my bad. Never saw you had a question, a little late but ill answer it anyways. You would have to cut down the inner crush sleaves on the inside of the frame rail, You would also have to trim the seam because with the fram stifiners would push the bracket out and it wouldnt clear the seam. Not really a big deal, it would only take a few mins with the sawzall. For the inner crush sleave you would need to cut it down 3/16" if your frame stifiners are that thickness...sorry again for the late reply.
Click to expand...


Yeah, after I got the brackets, I understood what you were talking about. I didn't know they had those spacers between the UCA mount and the frame. Anyhow, I had to trim the seam like you said, but not bad. I didn't have to cut past any spot welds. Also, I had to trim the spacers in two dimensions. Obviously, they were 3/16" too wide after I put on the frame stiffeners from TNT. The bolt holes were also moved down 3/16", which meant the diamter would have been 3/16" too big. So I just ground down one side of them flat, and the slid on nice and easy. The other issue was that I needed to get some longer bolts for going through the frame in order to get proper threading on the nuts. Since I had a longer bolt, I had to turn the forward driver's side bolt around, inserting it from inside-to-out. Otherwise, the threaded portion would have interfered with the UCA in the UCA mount. No problems now though.
 
you shouldnt need longer bolts. The braket is still the same width correct?

edit: Oh, were you talking about the cross member bolts? I thought you were talking about the ones that go trough the unibody.
 
xalexjx said:
you shouldnt need longer bolts. The braket is still the same width correct?

edit: Oh, were you talking about the cross member bolts? I thought you were talking about the ones that go trough the unibody.
Click to expand...


Actually, no, I was talking about the ones that go through the frame. You are correct, in that the bracket is the same width, so it doesn't affect bolt length, so you are right, in that I shouldn't need a longer bolt. However, I did need some longer bolts for all 4 of them, because no matter how hard I cranked them down with 2 breaker bars, I couldn't get any threads to get past the actual nylock nut. I read somewhere that proper engagement requires at least one full thread past the end of the nut.

Thus, I was right for the wrong reason! It wasn't cus the frame stiffeners, but for whatever reason, I they were just about 1/4" - 1/2" too short.

What about the UCA mount on the drivers' side bracket. Did you experience the same thing I did, where you had to run the bolt backwards, so that the nut/threads wouldn't interfere with the UCA when it was bolted up? Even with the shorter bolts that came with it, the krawler joint was making contact with the nut (with no threads poking through), so I had to turn it around, because the bolt head is more shallow than the depth of the nut.
 
NCCherokee said:
What about the UCA mount on the drivers' side bracket. Did you experience the same thing I did, where you had to run the bolt backwards, so that the nut/threads wouldn't interfere with the UCA when it was bolted up? Even with the shorter bolts that came with it, the krawler joint was making contact with the nut (with no threads poking through), so I had to turn it around, because the bolt head is more shallow than the depth of the nut.
Click to expand...

Yep, you got it! run the bolt through backwards!
 
Bringin it back from the dead!

Where's the best place to buy this kit now that DC4wd has closed shop?
TIA
 
selarep said:
Where's the best place to buy this kit now that DC4wd has closed shop?
TIA
Click to expand...

That SUCKS!! He was by far the cheapest on many products......... maybe thats why he had to close.:dunno:
 
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