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I don't see that you've listed which Tstat you used, but I would recommend the Stant Superstat over the basic Tstat. I haven't drilled any of mine, and it seems to burp quickly and without trouble, although at this point, the only original parts of the cooling system are the heater and overflow hoses.
45359 is the part number btw. I haven't been able to get a ScanGauge on it to check, but it does run cooler- maybe 5-10 degrees by the dash gauge (which varies by that much, but it's consistently lower than it has been).
You said you are doing this on Tuesday at the base shop? The one on Correy Station? I may be able to help if you are interested, depending on the time. I got my promotion and a few warmup events so we can get back to flying in the AM but the rest of the day is free so far.
Yea I have two of those thermostats. One without holes and one with. What size o-ring should I grab. I'm just hoping the shop I'm going to work on it at has the quick disconnect tool. I don't even know what the tool looks like.
The Dorman/Help! replacement O rings are part number 800-013. Contains 2 5/16" (fuel line size) and 2 3/8" (trans cooler size). Replacement clips are 800-016 (same sizes as the O rings), or you could just cut and clamp it instead. It's not a bad job at all, either way.
You said you are doing this on Tuesday at the base shop? The one on Correy Station? I may be able to help if you are interested, depending on the time. I got my promotion and a few warmup events so we can get back to flying in the AM but the rest of the day is free so far.
Yea I have two of those thermostats. One without holes and one with. What size o-ring should I grab. I'm just hoping the shop I'm going to work on it at has the quick disconnect tool. I don't even know what the tool looks like.
Job is done thanks to some help for wolfpackjeeper. Harness was stupid easy to put in after pulling the rad. It could be done without doing it though looking back. Overall not too bad. Having done it once it shouldn't be hard to do it again if ever needed. Hopefully the lights work out well at night. I'm going to go test them when it gets dark.
Before you install the new thermostat, put it on your workbench. Get out your drill motor, chuck up a 1/8" or so drill bit, and drill two holes in the flange. They need to be 180* apart, and fairly close to the poppet valve (so inward on the flange, not toward the outside edge.) Install with one hole at 12:00 and the other at 6:00 - this makes your system able to purge air from behind the thermostat on its own.
All good stuff but I'm going to question the practice drilling holes on the newer systems. Mines a '94. I drilled holes in the thermostat and all I did was freeze my A__ off during the winter as it took forever to warm up. Can't imagine what running a cold engine for extended periods in sub-zero weather did in terms of engine wear. I went back to a stock thermostat without holes and the world is fine again.
All good stuff but I'm going to question the practice drilling holes on the newer systems. Mines a '94. I drilled holes in the thermostat and all I did was freeze my A__ off during the winter as it took forever to warm up. Can't imagine what running a cold engine for extended periods in sub-zero weather did in terms of engine wear. I went back to a stock thermostat without holes and the world is fine again.
Just kidding. Drilling the holes helps a lot with the closed systems--87 to 90--as they won't "self-burp". Shouldn't be necessary with the 91+ open systems.
The Stant SuperStat Premium thermostats I posted about earlier doesn't require drilling.
All good stuff but I'm going to question the practice drilling holes on the newer systems. Mines a '94. I drilled holes in the thermostat and all I did was freeze my A__ off during the winter as it took forever to warm up. Can't imagine what running a cold engine for extended periods in sub-zero weather did in terms of engine wear. I went back to a stock thermostat without holes and the world is fine again.
Even on the newer systems, the OEM thermostat has a single hole at the 12 o'clock position. However, it also has a ball bearing check valve built into it so it only passes air/fluid one direction. They're relatively cheap (~$7 at the stealership) and I prefer them over drilling holes in an aftermarket one just to save a couple of bucks. I haven't tried the Stant that Joe is always suggesting.
I've got a couple Stants that I need to install at some point... but both my regularly driven jeeps are doing fine with their current Duralast (MJ) and unknown (96 XJ, came with the jeep) thermostats so I haven't seen fit to mess with them.
And yeah, every thermostat I have ever seen has a little half-squashed rivet going through a too-large hole, appears to be set up as a check valve.
I agree on the drilling thing. I did this once on my '88 and ended up having it take forever to heat up and it had trouble maintaining temp on below zero days. It did burp easier, but I went back to the Mopar T-stat. Only one I could find that actually had the jiggle pin in it.
I'd flush the system with some cleaner first. You can buy it at any parts store or wally world. Even though you're replacing the radiator, junk can still build up in the engine.
X2 on the thermostat, stock 195F temp. Drill a tiny hole in the top of the flange for air to pass through, if it doesn't already have one. Buy TWO tstat housing gaskets, they're cheap, and you'll probably mess one up. And put some RTV or gasket dressing or something on it to help it seal.
X2 on the water wetter or equivalent, that stuff is amazing.
I buy the cheap green stuff and mix my own in a 5 gallon bucket. Use only distilled water.
Sounds like you already got new upper and lower radiator hoses. Might as well replace your heater hoses while you're at it.
Any concerns about your water pump?
It's also easier to change the serpentine belt with all that junk out of the way.
question, is the hole absolutely necessary? I just replaced mine with a Stant 195 "superstat". There is a hole on the old stat, not sure if there was one on the stant. REALLY dont feel like tearing it apart again. been driving it for a week with zero problems.
