I had a SBC 355 on a stand for over a year with no issues. Held on with Grade 8 bolts.
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Replacing a Blown Engine - Documenting with Pics / Share Advice
- Thread starter Tony_SS
- Start date
I had a SBC 355 on a stand for over a year with no issues. Held on with Grade 8 bolts.
notamos
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins, CO
Mine, 2. 4 total.
I've had 4.0 I6s on stands for a long time also w/ grade 8s. Inlines are so long - think this causes the issue. I flipped this engine a million times while I was working on it, never an issue. May have been a casting issue. Who knows.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
At first I though the stand tipped over... but the block just broke in that area?
notamos
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins, CO
Correct. The block broke (it had 4 grade 8 bolts connected to it - very solid). Luckily, I had just attached the chains so it didn't get hurt further. When the block broke, the entire engine rotated toward that side but stopped when the chains tightened.
lazyxj
NAXJA Member #1310
- Location
- Los Angeles
That makes me feel good, having an engine on a stand, waiting for when I have a few spare days to install it.
In over 40 years of rebuilding engines, I have never heard of this happening.
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
Pulling the engine.. I took out the mounts all the way to get it off the transmission.
I took of the oil pick up and flywheel while it was on the hoist.
A creeper worked great to strap it down and strip off the rest of the parts.
Parts cleaning
This stuff works amazing..full strength.
Empty bay. I used a bottle jack and 2x4 to support the trans.
New block on the stand
New oil pump and pickup
All assembled and ready to drop in. You can see the studs I put in place on the HB so I could put a prybar in there while I cranked down the flywheel bolts. That was a 2 man job. It kept it on TDC.
And it is finally in place and bolted to the trans with the lower bolts. Later I will do the upper housing bolts. Replacing them with a standard head ones of course.
Now the fun part, putting everything back together. I did forget to drop the lifters in so I'll do that next.
I took of the oil pick up and flywheel while it was on the hoist.
A creeper worked great to strap it down and strip off the rest of the parts.
Parts cleaning
This stuff works amazing..full strength.
Empty bay. I used a bottle jack and 2x4 to support the trans.
New block on the stand
New oil pump and pickup
All assembled and ready to drop in. You can see the studs I put in place on the HB so I could put a prybar in there while I cranked down the flywheel bolts. That was a 2 man job. It kept it on TDC.
And it is finally in place and bolted to the trans with the lower bolts. Later I will do the upper housing bolts. Replacing them with a standard head ones of course.
Now the fun part, putting everything back together. I did forget to drop the lifters in so I'll do that next.
CharlesS
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Quezon Province, Philippines
Definitely enjoying the progress and other members comments....
Replaced a few engines over the years and know that the time will come on the present Jeep.
Nice Job.....
Replaced a few engines over the years and know that the time will come on the present Jeep.
Nice Job.....
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
I don't know if you did, but you should have checked oil pump pickup to oil pan clearance.
Personally I would not lift using the head bolt holes and would have you the head, intake and exhaust manifolds on before I dropped it on.
Personally I would not lift using the head bolt holes and would have you the head, intake and exhaust manifolds on before I dropped it on.
lazyxj
NAXJA Member #1310
- Location
- Los Angeles
I found this to be useful when installing the oil pickup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOIhaI3eEog
I got my engine back in a few days ago, good to have it done and running again.
I would like to have a long talk with the engineer who insisted on using inverted torx bolts on the top engine to trans mounting.
A lot of fun to get them out. Removing the engine mounts and then dropping the transmission crossmemeber 2" made all the difference.
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
No I did not do that... I hope it will be ok.
I installed w/o the head for several reason. One being so I could get to the bolts behind the head for housing. And the other is because its nearly impossible to get to the manifold to pipe for the exhaust. I'm on a 2000. I was tight in there. So I am installing the reverse of assembly.
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
I didn't have any problem at all removing those bolts. Once I took the head off I could easily get to them using a 12 point wrench. I used a prybar to move the wrench on one side and a block of wood and hammer to move the wrench on the other and they both came loose and out easily.
lazyxj
NAXJA Member #1310
- Location
- Los Angeles
Now that I have done it both ways, I would rather assemble the engine on a stand and deal with the two upper bolts, now knowing how to get at them.
Installing the head, valve train, manifolds and engine brackets, with the block already installed, is more than what my back wants to be subjected to.
With the 2001's mini-cats, access to the lower manifold bolts is just about impossible after the engine is installed.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
I tried that. Didn't work. I had to go but a set of the correct sockets to remove those two stupid bolts. Then I threw them as far as I could and replaced them with real bolts.
x2. I'd rather deal with the manifolds outside of the vehicle. Even removing a head I will pull the head and manifolds as a unit just so I don't have to deal with those bolts when in the vehicle. Its also easier on my back to use a lift for that.
BoBDoG2o02
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
Thats what she said!!!!
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
What do you all think of "break in oil" ... a racing buddy suggested Valvoline VR1... thoughts?
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
Funny thing is I bought an E12 wrench and broke it trying to undo those dumb things...its only after did the 12 point one work. Maybe I loosened it with the broke wrench.
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
I have a set of homemade wheel cribs out of 2x4's. I'm been using them as a step this whole time.. they are a big help when working in there. And mine isn't even lifted yet... I can't imagine working in that bay with a 3" lift on the jeep.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
VR1 is not a bad oil to run, but I wouldn't use it for a cam breakin. If you do I would put some kind of ZDDP cam breakin additive. However, I like oils with the stuff already in it.
Tony_SS
NAXJA Supporting Vendor
- Location
- Washington MO
VR1 is supposed to have the zinc already in it.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6
