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Replaced wires, cap, rotor, no start! Help!

Flash said:
I just pulled out my service manual(89) and i thing you need to rotate the wire back(counter clockwise) one position!@!!!!!

Flash.

Back on it. Just repositioned the wires one position CCW (1->4 etc.).....still won't start! Actually the other position (in the pic) sounded slightly better (cranking sound).

I am really at a loss here! I re-installed all the old stuff (wires, cap, rotor) and the truck still won't fire up (and it was running before). If anyone has suggestions on the firing order (see picture) or otherwise please let me know!

Can I somehow align the rotor position with a position on the engine (firing position Cyl 1)??

On my new cap there is a nr. 1 stamped in the plastic. That seems to indicate that my wire ordering is ok. But then I really have no clue what could be wrong! The car cranks pretty strong. But could it be the battery nonetheless?

Thanks for any further input!

Tim
 
when you rotate them back look on the cap its self. Some times they put a little #1 next to a post........Your old cap might have it on it. but eater way i would move each wire back one position....

Thanks for the simple answer nekocopter, some time i get to involve it the theory of it all, and get people confused.;)


Flash!
 
So you are getting spark out off the spark plug, all six cables.


Flash.
 
I can only think of 2 diff problem... 1 your spark plugs are fuel foul(plugs are gas soaked) and can't fire............if this is the case remove the inj wires form the jeep hold the throttle to the floor, until it starts!

the rotor aligning tab is broke and it is in the wrong spot on the distributer shaft!


Flash.
 
The aligning tab is fine (checked). Will try the soaked-plug-idea. I did try yesterday and today with no difference and would expect that any soaking would have been evaporated by now. Will get back on that.

What about the ignition coil? I cranked the engine a couple of times with the wire between the coil and the cap disconnected (when I was flushing the PS fluid, see first post). Could that have caused damage to the coil? In retrospect I should have disconnected the other side of the coil to prevent high-charge build-up inside.

Although I got spark everywhere, they were yellowish, not blue. I thought a strong, powerful spark should be blue, right? That's why I think I might have fried the ignition coil.
 
Hmmm I thought that you were running the eng when you flushed the power steering fluid! Hmmm Makes me thing that the plugs are fouled.

If removing the inj wire makes no diff, remove the plugs and see if they or dry or wet. if wet crank the eng.... a lot with the plugs out and the inj wires still remove.

Clean and dry spark plugs. If there was a lot of fuel that came out the spark plug hole, when cranking........you will need to add couple squirts of oil into each syl so that it can bring the compression back up from the fuel washing all the oil off from the cylinder walls.

You wouldn't have damage a thing with the coil being unhooked!

Flash.

Sorry,:rtm: just when and reread your first post. cranked (with coil remove):twak: :D
 
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Just taken out the plugs. They all smelled after gas pretty bad. Three were visually wet, they are not very dirty. Will dry and clean them, put them back and give it a go. Haven't tried starting without the injectors yet (already got the plugs out), will try cleaning drying first and then retry.

Are you sure starting the engine without the plugs is ok (with the injectors disconnected of course)? No change of sucking dirt in the cylinders?
 
dutchjeep said:
Just taken out the plugs. They all smelled after gas pretty bad. Three were visually wet, they are not very dirty. Will dry and clean them, put them back and give it a go. Haven't tried starting without the injectors yet (already got the plugs out), will try cleaning drying first and then retry.

Are you sure starting the engine without the plugs is ok (with the injectors disconnected of course)? No change of sucking dirt in the cylinders?

YES, it will be fine.....unless your eng is really dirty(muddy) under the hood then you might want to put the plugs in and blow all the dirt a way form the spark plug first.

after you have started it w/out the inj wires on......and you restart it with the inj plugged in. DON'T turn it off until you have got i warmed up and drive it for 10 minutes or so(tell it drive and acts normal)before you shut it off or you will have to start all over!
Look like you have found the problem and the solution!;)

Flash.

EDIT
You should change the oil after you get it running, to get the gas out of the oil.
 
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Ok, here's what I did. Cleaned the plugs, back in started....almost.

Disconnected injectors.....run, very slowly somewhat irregular... but running (a little like a car that has self-ignition due to carbon build-up and keeps running after you turned it off)

Reconnected injectors....nothing.

Disconnected again.....same thing...slow running.

By this time I figured the plugs were dirty again.

Right now, took them out again and they look pretty bad. Will crank a couple of times without the plugs in them then (thanks for your previous post, just wanted to check whether that's ok). Will clean and try again. This time with the injectors in it.

If it runs, believe me, I won't turn it off until I run out of fuel:)!

Will get back on results.
 
start it with the injectors unplug, and keep starting it till it will not even try to start or will just spin with no atempt to run! then put the injector wires back on, start it and hold it at a high idle for atleast 30 sec before seeing weather it will idle.
 
The firing order is in correct sequence but is usually listed clockwise as
1-5-3-6-2-4 (which counter clockwise would be 1-4-2-6-3-5). So it's in the right order but may not be in the correct starting position.
 
ParadiseXJ said:
The firing order is in correct sequence but is usually listed clockwise as
1-5-3-6-2-4 (which counter clockwise would be 1-4-2-6-3-5). So it's in the right order but may not be in the correct starting position.


After pulling out my service manual, again........you are RIGHT, the rotor turns in a clockwise position.

Pulled my service manual out to prove you wrong! but.........:worship: :D

Flash.
 
Guys..........she runs!!

Did like we discussed. Even used my wife's blowdryer to dry the cylinders, just to get that extra edge:). She's back! Man, I learned never to break the good old rule of not changing two things at the same time (PS fluid hoses & the spark wires). It simply turned out I drowned the car when cranking to flush the fluid. I never ran it after that but went ahead and changed the wires etc. Then I thought I goofed up there (because that was the obvious). Valuable lesson learned!

Also for all you out there wanting to flush the PS fluid. Just short the starter, don't disconnect the coil. Or -- if you do -- disconnect the injectors also. Another valuable lesson learned for me. The rest of the world probably already knew this:).

Thank you guys for all your patience with me! This is really great the way you guys talked me through this. The advice, ideas and moral support was much appreciated!!

I love my jeep again!

Tim
 
Removing the ASD or fuel pump relay would would also work!

Glad the see you have made it to the end......with a smile:cheers:

Flash.
 
Flash,

Thanks for all the help man! Just for future reference, where do I find the ASD (what does it stand for) or the fuel pump relay. Those little clamps on the injectors are a pain so if there is an easier way to do the same thing I'm interested!

Thanks again!

Tim
 
ASD stand for "Auto Shut Down" relay witch is what you have this relay when activated allowed the......ground, i thing.

anyway the computer uses this relay to turn on the inj and fuel pump. or more importantly turn them of when the key is turned off.

my jeep is a Renix and it is a fuel pump relay that is part of 4 relay on the passenger fender.

Sorry your's in a 92+ and i'm not shore were they put them. Hmmmm maybe i can see them in your pic.!......nope can't see the fender.

they are little black boxes about 3/4" by 3/4 square!

Flash
 
I believe after 1990 they started putting all the relays in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) located on the passenger wheel well in the engine compartment. It's a black box about 8"x4". There should be a "map" of where everything goes. It's either on the outside of the box or on the inside after you pop it open.

My 1990 4.0 only has a "relay center". A picture of the relay center might narrow that search down. I don't have a pic of the PDC, but you should be able to search and find one. I think the manual should mention it.

The power latch relay only applies, well, if you have a power latch (rear hatch)

2426393_12_full.jpg
 
thats exactly how mine looks but dutchjeep pic. shows the coil on the block so i fig it was diff on his:dunno:

Flash.
 
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