Replaced front brake pads, now smoke coming from front wheel....help?

[caspergotaz28]

Replaced all four pads. I did not turn or replace the rotor. I lightly sanded front and back with 220 grit in a swirling motion. They had some tiny "gouges" on the surface, but I didn't think they were too bad. For the most part they were flat across.

The rotors are original with 96K miles on them. I know this because they have those funky washers on the studs that hold the rotor on for the trip down the assembly line.

I did a 10 mile test run and they seem to be "grabbing" the rotor lightly. The car will slow to a stop faster while in neutral and the engine is running at a slightly higher rpm to maintain speed. I did very light braking throughout the test drive. Mainly 45-20 slowdowns.

When I stopped, there was some thin smoke coming from one of the wheels, the other didn't seem to have this smoke. I could also obviously detect a burning smell.

I didn't replace/turn the rotors in the interest of saving money. I will if it is needed though.

-Should I drive another few dozen "break-in" miles and see if the condition improves?
-Should I replace the rotors or turn them? They are original and never been removed from the car.
-Should I replace the wheel bearings if I'm gonna pull the rotor?
-If I turn/replace the rotor, should I start over with new pads or try to use these ones with a few dozen miles?


I have done one other brake job on a mustang and I turned one of the rotors and replaced the other. I had no problem like this happen.

 

[jeepinandy]

Replaced all four pads. I did not turn or replace the rotor. I lightly sanded front and back with 220 grit in a swirling motion. They had some tiny "gouges" on the surface, but I didn't think they were too bad. For the most part they were flat across.

The rotors are original with 96K miles on them. I know this because they have those funky washers on the studs that hold the rotor on for the trip down the assembly line.

I did a 10 mile test run and they seem to be "grabbing" the rotor lightly. The car will slow to a stop faster while in neutral and the engine is running at a slightly higher rpm to maintain speed. I did very light braking throughout the test drive. Mainly 45-20 slowdowns.

When I stopped, there was some thin smoke coming from one of the wheels, the other didn't seem to have this smoke. I could also obviously detect a burning smell.

I didn't replace/turn the rotors in the interest of saving money. I will if it is needed though.

-Should I drive another few dozen "break-in" miles and see if the condition improves?
-Should I replace the rotors or turn them? They are original and never been removed from the car.
-Should I replace the wheel bearings if I'm gonna pull the rotor?
-If I turn/replace the rotor, should I start over with new pads or try to use these ones with a few dozen miles?


I have done one other brake job on a mustang and I turned one of the rotors and replaced the other. I had no problem like this happen.

1-I personally would give a few more miles on them. not likely the calipers would start sticking all the sudden... possible grease on rotors making smoke?
2-if your not experiencing any shaking or pulsating brake pedal i wouldnt replace or turn the rotors
3-the rotors will come off without doing anything to the bearings, but if bearings are bad now would be the time to replace since your already there.
4-inspect the pads if they look fine use them with the new or turned rotors

 

[caspergotaz28]

I think the problem has to do with the slide pins. I may have overtorqued them or not applied enough grease on them.

Keep the ideas coming everyone and thanks.

 

[junkxj]

That sounds like a caliper sticking to me. I have had to replace several calipers that worked fine with wore out pads, and then they begin to stick after new pads were installed. Just my opinion though.

 

[caspergotaz28]

That sounds like a caliper sticking to me. I have had to replace several calipers that worked fine with wore out pads, and then they begin to stick after new pads were installed. Just my opinion though.

How do you replace a caliper? This is my 2nd brake job.

 

[jeepinandy]

How do you replace a caliper? This is my 2nd brake job.

all steps as replacing pads. pretty straight forward... remove line from old caliper replace on new one.. bleed the brakes (need a buddy to help in that step) gravity bleed first.. remove cap from master cylinder keep full of fluid loosen up bleeder on caliper watch it til fluid runs out tighten bleeder... then have friend pump brakes until good pedal.. holding pressure on it loosen bleeder til pedal goes to floor tighten bleeder before releasing pedal back up.. repeat if air comes out.. make sure to bleed both sides.. make sure when u put on new clipers that the bleeder is up above where the brake line goes in... it's possible to put on wrong side..

 

[Ron Hyslop]

Did you remove fluid from the master cylinder that would be displaced by the new pad thickness?

 

[caspergotaz28]

No I didn't remove any fluid from the master cylinder. Do I need to bleed off a little?

 

[Wayne Sihler]

No I didn't remove any fluid from the master cylinder. Do I need to bleed off a little?

Yes! IF you did not open the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back.
Is there a pull to one side now? When you push the piston back into the caliper body there is a chance that the piston will sieze in a rough/rusted area.
You already had the caliper off,only step further is removing the brake line.Check that the pad will move on the "ear"sometimes a notch will wear there.
Wayne

 

[Ron Hyslop]

When you pressed those caliper cylinders back into their bore to make room for your new brake pads, you also pushed the displaced brake fluid back into the master cylinder. Possibly there is to much fluid in the master cylinder and maybe some residual pressure holding the pads tight to the rotor. Try removing about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a suction devise(I use a turkey baseter). Then use a c-clamp pressed on the brake pad on out side, and the back of the caliper on the other side to push the caliper cylinder back in the bore a little bit,maybe a quarter inch or so to break the pad away from the rotor. Now top off the master cylinder and go for a test drive. When you start your test drive, remember that on the first couple of brake applications the pedal will go all most to the floor until you get those caliper cylinders pumped full of fluid. Do this while your still sitting in the driveway. If the above does not solve your problem, then the brake that is smoking probably has the caliper cylinder XXXXeyed in the bore and you'll have to replace the calipers. Good luck. When you do this kind of work and your not a pro, it's probably best to have a shop manual at your side and follow it like a cook book, so you don't miss any steps(at least thats what I do).

 

[caspergotaz28]

I bled about 1/2 qt of fluid out and the wheel turned freely while jacked up. BUT, the level in the reservoir was at the bottom. There was about 1/16" worth of fluid. I filled the reservoir back up about halfway and the problem returned.

When I pushed the piston back into the bore, I might have been a little c0ckeyed with the
block of wood and c-clamp. I will replace both calipers and give an update.

 

[caspergotaz28]

closure post,

Replaced, rotors, calipers, and new pads. All is well. I think I screwed up the caliper pushing the piston back in crooked. Onlly cost me $100 at Oreillys for everything.

I was driving around with the front brakes dragging and one of the pads actually caught fire! The rotor was glowing red. That was a scary moment. Thought the whole jeep was gonna go up. Luckily I had a few gallons of water with me and dumped it on the wheel. Let it sit for about 45 minutes and drove it about 3 miles home using the parking brake and downshifting at stop signs.

 

[RichP]

What happens is the brake fluid being hydroscopic absorbs moisture, as you use the brakes the moisture starts to corrode the parts in the system. As long as you keep wearing them there is no problem. When you put new parts on and push the cylinder back in the corrosion on the pistons can either stick or tear seals. Thats why it is a good idea to keep an eye on the fluid in the master cylinder and once it starts to go dark completely bleed the system, back to front till you get all new fluid. Thats also a reason for not keeping open cans of brake fluid around, the fluid absorbs moisture from the air like a sponge. How fast is absorbs moisture is dependent on where you live too, in a high dry climate it is not so bad as a low humid climate where you should do it every 12-18 months. Here it seems to be about every 30-36 months till it turns black.