• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

RENIX lower rad electric fan switch

you sure you don't have some weird radiator cross flow problem or maybe air trapped in the system that turns to steam at the temp gauge sensor causing the gauge to read hot although the motor isn't?Did you verify its operation in a pan of water like before?Also I wonder if your gauge is giving you accurate info.
Sounds like it's really time to do the vette switch mod.....
 
Last edited:
One last thought, at least with the Renix closed system there is a small chance of getting a trapped air bubble in the thermostat housing especially if turtle bottle runs out of coolant due to a leak, but the middle of the radiator exit is always likely to be flooded with coolant. By the time the middle of the radiator saw air you would need a new engine anyway.
 
mattbred said:
Put in the replacement switch and it works, but it only turns on once it gets to the mark right before the red zone. Turns off right before straight up and down too.

Well, that's a waste of $40. I'm guessing the company mistook it for being a radiator entry location..
Click to expand...

Could be, or the gauge sensor-sender is bad, or the radiator crossfow is bypassing the switch??? Man you really need that IR Thermo gauge right now!

You did say they warrantied it right?
 
Ecomike said:
Could be, or the gauge sensor-sender is bad, or the radiator crossfow is bypassing the switch??? Man you really need that IR Thermo gauge right now!

You did say they warrantied it right?
Click to expand...

I should buy an IR gauge and spot the temperature. After I had run it for awhile, the fan switch was burning hot. You could not hold on to it, and the rad around it was even hotter.

Yes they warrantied it, but they won't give me a refund. If I had any qualms, it'd be with the company itself I guess.
 
Echomike's explanationis right on the mark. The renix switch is placed in the coolest side of the radiator. It was put there on purpose. I emulated that setup; well kind of for my dual electric fans and love it. The '96 XJ radiator do not have the socket for the temperature switch so I used a piece of pipe between the radiator and the water pump, welded a fitting in it for the renix radiator switch going on four years and no problem. When the water returning to the engine reach 185* the switch closes, the fans run until the temps drop to 170* then the fans turn off. I verify the switch is operating pproperly by placing it in water on the stove with a walmart turkey temperature probe (no not that! The type you would use when baking your thanksgiving turkey).
The dash guage never get above 112* when stopped or moving slow. At highway speed the fans never come on.
I wish I had a renix type radiator with the socket for the switch and the filler neck like the late model XJ's have.
 
It would seem like a good setup when it works properly. My dilema is:

Is this particular aftermarket switch a faulty design in that it waits for too high a temperature?
Is my radiator somehow blocking correct coolant going to the switch? (I doubt it)
Is my temperature gauge faulty? (I doubt it)

I suppose what I need to do is take it out, put it in a pot of water with a temperature gauge, and see when it closes. Does anyone know what size bolt will fill the hole? Because even with everything tight, water still pours out of the hole like a son of a gun.
 
I'm going to buy a cheap thermometer and put it, and the switch, in a pot of water and see when it closes exactly.

So you say that the switch itself should close no later than 180f? And open no earlier than 170f?

If it turns out the switch is a faulty design, what brand should I buy? OEM for $53? Maybe a junkyard!

Yeah, I never thought of that. I'm totally going to a junkyard and buying one.
 
Put in the replacement (under warranty) switch and it works, but it only turns on once it gets to the mark right before the red zone. Turns off right before straight up and down too.

Well, that's a waste of $40. I'm guessing the company mistook it for being a radiator entry location..
Click to expand...
Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the radiator switch was to correct an overheat condition. It is the mechanical fan that maintains the temperature and the auxillery fan is for A\C and overheat. It sounds to me like the switch is working appropriately.
 
I bought one of those adjustable temp sensor kits when I did my dual electric fan setup, but that was also because I converted my radiator over to a later model.
 
88 Wagonman said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the radiator switch was to correct an overheat condition. It is the mechanical fan that maintains the temperature and the auxillery fan is for A\C and overheat. It sounds to me like the switch is working appropriately.
Click to expand...

Depends on how you define overheat condition. My E fan never runs if the ambient outdooor temp is at or below 75 F. The AC turns it on all the time, part of the AC logic. At 85 F outdoor, once fully wamed up and when stuck in 0-10 mph traffic or a long slow line a Burger King the Efan will cycle once every few minutes.

Sorry but I bought mine about 3 years ago, before I started keeping records so I am not even sure which one I got it from. Pretty sure it was O'Reilys or Autozone. Paid about $35 to $40 for it.

Get yourself some temperature measurment equipment somehow and find out what is really going on.

On the test, I would say the turkey thermometer might be off a few degrees so give yourself some wigle room. He siad below his came on at 185 with the turkey thermometer. I would say on at 180 to 185 F is OK. The span between on and off was 10 F, so it should turn off at 10 F colder than the turn on temp.
 
mattbred said:
I'm going to buy a cheap thermometer and put it, and the switch, in a pot of water and see when it closes exactly.

So you say that the switch itself should close no later than 180f? And open no earlier than 170f?

If it turns out the switch is a faulty design, what brand should I buy? OEM for $53? Maybe a junkyard!

Yeah, I never thought of that. I'm totally going to a junkyard and buying one.
Click to expand...

found this for you today while I was searching for a thermo switch for mine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP...an-Switch_W0QQitemZ380018542668QQcmdZViewItem
Don't know if they'll ship to Canada.

Any one know what size the renix switch is??
 
Last edited:
Rare find indeed, LOL!

But for that price (and I need one for my daughters 89 soon, after the head job is done) I will buy it. Let me know if one of you is going to bid on it, if so I will pass on it, if not I will take a shot at it for under $20. If goes over $20 I would rather buy it locally so I can return it if it's defective out of the box.
 
I'm not going to buy it, I'm gonna get one from pick n pull for 3 bucks on my next run in. Thanks for the heads up tho.
 
Hayden Automotive makes 4 different ones. Found them at Advanced Auto.

The amp rating and temperature range varies between the 4 models. Part # 226204, has a 30 amp relay, 160 to 210 F adjustable range and includes a wiring harness. Cost about $35.

Part #226203 is 15 amp, no relay, but the adjustable range goes from 32 to 248 F. Cost about $18. I bought one of these for my Diesel AC condenser fan to cut the load on my 50 amp alternator. Planning to strap the sensor (bulb) to the hot side of the AC condenser on mine, then experiment with finding the best on & off temperature for the E-Condenser fan. Planning to run it independent of the AC clutch for now.

Anyway, these could be used on Renix or HO jeeps for those that get board with stock temperature control of E fans.
 
outlander said:
Sorry but I have to call BS on this one....
I don't know how you got that to work? The 91+ sensor only works in conjunction with the 91+ ecm and cannot be used to trip a relay.It sends the ecm a variable resistance value depending on coolant temp and the ecm determines when to turn the fan on based on those numbers.
If it was possible I would have done it along time ago.
Click to expand...

That is informative. I have had a side issue where the fan would not run on occasion - until I tapped the relay. I just assumed - oops - that it worked the same. If it's a variable volt output it could easily have too little to pull in the winding, but jouncing it would cause engagement. Apparently, the roads around here jounce it pretty often - but not often enough.

Apparently the 'Vette sensor goes full on - which is what is needed. I'm definitely in a position to take advantage of that.
 
outlander said:
I'm going to say screw it and pony up for the 83 vette switch that mounts in the 91+ thermo housing.Mattbred I'd recommend that you go to the J/Y and get yourself a 91+ thermostat housing.....I think I paid around $5 for mine,and buy a 83 corvette switch for $20 to trigger your fan(s).It would be cheaper than buying another renix switch.
Click to expand...

Just curious where the idea of the 83 vette switch came from, since there was no 83 corvette. Unless the switch comes from an 83 CHEvette? :)
 
Ecomike said:
Hayden Automotive makes 4 different ones. Found them at Advanced Auto.

The amp rating and temperature range varies between the 4 models. Part # 226204, has a 30 amp relay, 160 to 210 F adjustable range and includes a wiring harness. Cost about $35.

Part #226203 is 15 amp, no relay, but the adjustable range goes from 32 to 248 F. Cost about $18. I bought one of these for my Diesel AC condenser fan to cut the load on my 50 amp alternator. Planning to strap the sensor (bulb) to the hot side of the AC condenser on mine, then experiment with finding the best on & off temperature for the E-Condenser fan. Planning to run it independent of the AC clutch for now.

Anyway, these could be used on Renix or HO jeeps for those that get board with stock temperature control of E fans.
Click to expand...

Will these screw in to the same rad hole that the RENIX one uses?

I also got two switches from the junkyard, and I got a cheap thermometer too.

The thermometer registed about 190f for the quickest sensor to turn on, then off again at 170f.

I installed it into the jeep, and the fans now kick on in between the top middle mark, and the one right beside it. Still a little hot to turn on in my opinion, but it'll do. It's not overheating anymore :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

V
High temp woes
2
Replies
28
Views
526
Vitzaa
V
S
Issues flushing dirty coolant
2
Replies
29
Views
4K
fenns7
F
D
Cooling Fan Switch And Temp Sensor Recommendations
Replies
7
Views
118
Unclewolverine
U
R
Fan not turning on when hot- fan works!
Replies
2
Views
2K
JMA_2001XJ
J
ShoeterMcgav
Dont touch the petcock... whoops!
Replies
7
Views
104
tjmotter
tjmotter
Back
Top