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Regear with 32s?

codyyy said:
Right now my tires are 235s and it seems fine. I was thinking 4.10s would be perfect for 32s, I don't expect to go much higher as far as tires.

Man, where have I heard that one before. Go to 4.56's and be done with it.
3.55's SUCK with any change in tire.
 
im at 33's with 3:55's not great but it works,, have 4:10 gears i just have to get the time to put them in... On the road i just run 3rd gear and its fine. at 55mph it runs 2500 rpms or so..
 
Heres the nums;

32" tires (real 32") and 4.11 gears, running about 2% undergeared from stock (speedo reads low). Assumptions; my 35 tooth gear was correct on stock tires (ie. the speedo read correct).

The 4.56 would be about 10% more, so approx 8% overgeared. Fast and fancy cyphering gives the 32" tires and 3.55 about 16% undergeared. I'm thinking 2% is a whole lot closer to livable than 8%.
 
I was running 32s on my 3.07s and personally I didnt think it was that bad. Just it sucked more gas than my liking. I am now at 4.56 and 33s. 4.56 is alittle deep than im used too, but its nice to have accelaration again.

btw. my jeep has a 5 spd.
 
I have another question, I guess it could be called "simple" since I hardly know anything about axles. I have the Dana 35 with ABS. Would it be cheaper just to regear my axles or find a new rear axle with the gears and just regear the front axle to match? I'm asking because I was told it would be cheaper just to get a stronger axle such as an 8.8 or D44 with the gearing correct, however I don't know how the ABS would work, as much as it sucks, I'd rather leave it on. Thanks.
 
Shogun said:
I'm thinking 2% is a whole lot closer to livable than 8%.

youre forgetting the added wind resistance a lift and bigger tires cause, it may be right on paper but the power you feel under your foot (on the highway at speeds)wont be as good as stock which is what youre comparing to.
 
codyyy said:
I have another question, I guess it could be called "simple" since I hardly know anything about axles. I have the Dana 35 with ABS. Would it be cheaper just to regear my axles or find a new rear axle with the gears and just regear the front axle to match? I'm asking because I was told it would be cheaper just to get a stronger axle such as an 8.8 or D44 with the gearing correct, however I don't know how the ABS would work, as much as it sucks, I'd rather leave it on. Thanks.
Regear a better axle...don't throw any money at the D35. Find a 29-spline C8.25 from a mid-year 96+ XJ and regear that or build an 8.8, but spending money to regear a D35 is..."simple" !!!1

edited t oadd:
FWIW I ran 3.55 with 32s on my XJ after my 4.5" lift. While I thought I wa doing okay with that setup, I noticed the torque converter rarely stayed locked while cruising, and I often dropped out of OD when confronted with the smallest hills. After regearing to 4.56 with 32s, the TQ stayed locked at 75mph and I was reminded that I could accelerate from a dead stop again!

Currently running 33x10.50 BFG MTs and the 4.56 gears and it's an excellent match. Of course the Cherokee was never really an aerodynamic vehicle to start with, and the frontal drag area at 4.5" lift is escessive so don't expect to get stock mileage.

Don't forget to change your speedometer gear after changing gearing or tire size, otherwise your reported mileage claims are pointless.

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
Last edited:
xtimmax said:
I was running 32s on my 3.07s and personally I didnt think it was that bad. Just it sucked more gas than my liking. I am now at 4.56 and 33s. 4.56 is alittle deep than im used too, but its nice to have accelaration again.

btw. my jeep has a 5 spd.

Hey would you reccomend 4.56 on the 5 speed or is it too much shifting? Im stock 3.07 now and going to pick up some 33s. Does 4.56 seem like overkill? 5th gear on the freeway how is the rpm around 70? Bet it feels lot better then stock out of the hole tho! Im gonna put the gears and lockers in first, so I will be running 4.56s on stock tires for a week or 2. That will be interesting! no freeways for me:doh:
 
Hmm, I bought my Jeep with 32" BFG A/T's and stock 3.55's, so I don't know what stock gearing feels like. I definitely need a gear swap because its pretty much my DD and I'm on the highway a lot at over 75mph (I drive fast, DD was a blown mustang for 2+ years). I'm trying to decide between 4.10's and 4.56's and everyone seems to like one or the other. I will do very mild wheeling and a lot of street driving, so I'm leaning towards 4.10's just to get better gas mileage and a bit more pick up from a stop. I'll be towing a wave runner around a bunch over the summer as well, so I'll have to take that into consideration. Any idea where the best place is to buy gears/install kits? Plus where do I get the different carrier needed for shorter gears in the HP D30 front axle?
 
justin_502 said:
Hey would you reccomend 4.56 on the 5 speed or is it too much shifting? Im stock 3.07 now and going to pick up some 33s. Does 4.56 seem like overkill? 5th gear on the freeway how is the rpm around 70? Bet it feels lot better then stock out of the hole tho! Im gonna put the gears and lockers in first, so I will be running 4.56s on stock tires for a week or 2. That will be interesting! no freeways for me:doh:

I've got 4.56 with 32's on my '98 with a 5 spd. RPM's at 70 mph are about 2700.

Personally, I love this set up for it's offroad low end grunt. I also don't feel it's too low for a daily driver.
 
youre forgetting the added wind resistance a lift and bigger tires cause, it may be right on paper but the power you feel under your foot (on the highway at speeds)wont be as good as stock which is what youre comparing to.
********

No, I am not forgetting that. Mathematically the more correct gear is 4.10, but as was pointed out to me months ago on the subject, other mods can inhibit performance vs. "stock", and I agree. The problem is How Much? Everyone has different mods, so all you can do is acknowledge it, not make blanket conclusions as to what is better. My 4.11 is fine but there is a noticable difference at 80 in a headwind. Lift, roofrack, pioneer kit all increase drag. How much time do you spend at 80+?

Alot has to do with the intended driving and the condition/age of the vehicle. High milage motor, high temp environment, high speed driving, I dont want lots of RPMs. City driving with stop-light drag racing, maybe I want to overgear it. I still hold to my conclusion that off-road gearing will come from the xfer case and not the trans. That way I dont pay the penalty every day for an occaisional off-road trip that my 4lo gearing can handle anyway.

Find an 8.8 with 4.11 gears already in it, drive that for a while to decide if its acceptable, the regear the front to match or spend the money you would have on 4.56. That pretty much covers all the bases, test drive 4.11, stronger axle, rear disc brakes.
 
Yucca-Man said:
Regear a better axle...don't throw any money at the D35. Find a 29-spline C8.25 from a mid-year 96+ XJ and regear that or build an 8.8, but spending money to regear a D35 is..."simple" !!!1

edited t oadd:
FWIW I ran 3.55 with 32s on my XJ after my 4.5" lift. While I thought I wa doing okay with that setup, I noticed the torque converter rarely stayed locked while cruising, and I often dropped out of OD when confronted with the smallest hills. After regearing to 4.56 with 32s, the TQ stayed locked at 75mph and I was reminded that I could accelerate from a dead stop again!

Currently running 33x10.50 BFG MTs and the 4.56 gears and it's an excellent match. Of course the Cherokee was never really an aerodynamic vehicle to start with, and the frontal drag area at 4.5" lift is escessive so don't expect to get stock mileage.

Don't forget to change your speedometer gear after changing gearing or tire size, otherwise your reported mileage claims are pointless.

Jim www.yuccaman.com

Could I still use my ABS with the 8.25? I really don't know much about the ABS as far as transferring it over to another axle. I know that I could just remove the fuse but I'd rather keep it on.
 
justin_502 said:
Hey would you reccomend 4.56 on the 5 speed or is it too much shifting? Im stock 3.07 now and going to pick up some 33s. Does 4.56 seem like overkill? 5th gear on the freeway how is the rpm around 70? Bet it feels lot better then stock out of the hole tho! Im gonna put the gears and lockers in first, so I will be running 4.56s on stock tires for a week or 2. That will be interesting! no freeways for me:doh:

FWIW, i have 4.10 gearing with 31's on my 89 5speed. i think its perfect and if i were to go with 33's, i would want 4.56. but, my brother in law thinks my 89 is geared too low, so for him he would think 33's and 4.10 would be ok.

so i depends on how you like to be geared. for 4x4xj, i would rather be geared too low than not deep enough. if you drive in an area that has a lot of hills/inclines/mountains, 4.10's and 33's would not be deep enough.

with my current set up, 5th gear at 65mph the rpms are 2500.
 
I currently run 31's with an AW4 and 3:55's and can't wait to install my 4:10's, my mileage sucks balls (maybe 16ish??).

My question is....I picked up a D35 with 4:10's, a lockrite, and yukon axles for a couple hundy, but it is out of a YJ. Should I swap everything into my axle, or weld some perches and shock mounts on the YJ axle?? It also got new bearing and brakes on the donor one, the guy I bought it from has about a grand into this axle (including labour, etc..)


ps, my tach still don't work after upgrading to a dis motor from a renix motor, any thoughts????

Paul
 
Shogun said:
youre forgetting the added wind resistance a lift and bigger tires cause, it may be right on paper but the power you feel under your foot (on the highway at speeds)wont be as good as stock which is what youre comparing to.
********

No, I am not forgetting that. Mathematically the more correct gear is 4.10, but as was pointed out to me months ago on the subject, other mods can inhibit performance vs. "stock", and I agree. The problem is How Much? Everyone has different mods, so all you can do is acknowledge it, not make blanket conclusions as to what is better. My 4.11 is fine but there is a noticable difference at 80 in a headwind. Lift, roofrack, pioneer kit all increase drag. How much time do you spend at 80+?

Alot has to do with the intended driving and the condition/age of the vehicle. High milage motor, high temp environment, high speed driving, I dont want lots of RPMs. City driving with stop-light drag racing, maybe I want to overgear it. I still hold to my conclusion that off-road gearing will come from the xfer case and not the trans. That way I dont pay the penalty every day for an occaisional off-road trip that my 4lo gearing can handle anyway.

Find an 8.8 with 4.11 gears already in it, drive that for a while to decide if its acceptable, the regear the front to match or spend the money you would have on 4.56. That pretty much covers all the bases, test drive 4.11, stronger axle, rear disc brakes.

8.8 rears come with 4.10 gears, not 4.11's. I believe Ford 9-inch rears have 4.11 gears, and unless you have one, I'm willing to bet you have 4.10's as well.
 
you can run a difference of 2% between gears on axles. any more and the t-case goes kaboom. I know my new chevy 5500 has 411 gears in the back and 410's in the front..
 
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