shimmy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- seattle, WA
does anyone run a 3" lift block in the rear? can you stack a 1.5 and 1.5 lift block? where does one find such a 3" lift block?
shimmy said:does anyone run a 3" lift block in the rear? can you stack a 1.5 and 1.5 lift block? where does one find such a 3" lift block?
shimmy said:just a simple question, i never said i was running that setup... calm down
Blocks are NOT that bad. Many here use them with success. If you only need to go up another inch or two, a block will give you the needed lift without a heavily-arched spring. This equates to more flex because the spring is flatter. Richard (Goatman) has used them, and he's no poser! I've aso talked to guys who MAKE leaf packs, and they tell me that blocks are fine if used within reason. (moderate height, don't stack, etc)GoalPoster said:dumbass question from the nooooooooob . . . .
Why are lift blocks a bad thing????
BillR said:Block are NOT that bad. Many here use them with success. If you only need to go up another inch or two, a block will give you the needed lift without a heavily-arched spring. This equates to more flex because the spring is flatter. Richard (Goatman) has used them, and he's no poser! I've aso talked to guys who MAKE leaf packs, and they tell me that blocks are fine if used within reason. (moderate height, don't stack, etc)
That should work great. Get a tapered block if you need more help with the pinion angle than the shackle provides. (providing you have an SYE; if not, get the flat block)GoalPoster said:Right now, I'm considering a pair of OME rear springs that will net me about 2.25".
I need 3" to match the front end components that I've picked up (3" Rusty's coils, LCAs and a Skyjacker adjustable track bar).
So, I've been trying to get information to determine if shackles, lift blocks or a combination of the two can be used to get the OME springs to the 3" that I need. (It was suggested that I go 3.5" in the rear but I forget exactly why I'm supposed to be doing that).
Anyhow . . . if blocks and shakles are good, how about a combination of .75 in. shackles and .5 in blocks to bet the 3" to 3.5" that I need?
It would seem to me that a combination of the two would be better than going 1.25 in. either way. For some reason that makes sense to me.
:confused1
Any advice would be helpful.
I have a tapered 1/2" block with a 2 degree shim built into it and a tcase drop also that are not being used.GoalPoster said:I haven't the SYE at this time.
I'm still putting together the lift and will see how much dough I have left after that, althought the presence of shimmy-shimmy-shake after install may hasten that decision in rather short fashion.
I'd do it straight way, but it is a 98 XJ and I'm only going 3 to 3.5 in. now so any big jiggles may be resolved short tern by a transfer case drop until I can afford to do it right with the SYE and shaft.
And, by the time I get inchitis, I'll be able to afford the good stuff!!!!
So, I'll be going with the flat blocks and shackles for now . . . probably 1 in. with shackles to help with the angles and .5 in with blocks to compensate for the spring height.
hey if he doesn`t want the blocks i`ll try to dealbgcntry72 said:I have a tapered 1/2" block with a 2 degree shim built into it and a tcase drop also that are not being used.
We will talk, poster.
Hasta.
GoalPoster said:dumbass question from the nooooooooob . . . .
Why are lift blocks a bad thing????