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Rear Shakle Bolts are a B-a-itch

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I tell ya you can always go buy another nut. this is the way to go. then a pickle fork and BFH to get the bolt out. a 5 minute operation then
 
How the hell do you get at the nut inside the frame to replace it? I do not want to cut more holes into the frame! I assume I will be answering my own question if I ask, should I cut through the floor to get at it? (I understand what the BFH means, LOL, but what is a pickle fork)?

D
 
I got my driverside spring nut spinning inside my frame (unibody)right now. I tried cutting into the frame from behind the bumper with no luck. I just gave up and returned the shackles and bought a 2 inch block. Maybe someday ill get that bolt out.
 
"I got my driverside spring nut spinning inside my frame (unibody)right now. I tried cutting into the frame from behind the bumper with no luck. I just gave up"

dude, go through the floor of the jeep, depending how loose that is it could be BAD JOO JOO!!!!
 
tarantula8 said:
Before posting my question I clicked the little button that said "Has this question been asked before?" and no match came up. So I asked the question. Eagle, what should I type in for a search on this topic?, I have search the archives by just looking at individual post and can't find anything?
It would have helped if you had searched for 'shackle' not 'shakle'.
 
Whenever I heat up a bolt on the XJ now, after the "rear-shock ordeal," I make sure to use, in addition to PB Blaster, a lot of wax. I heat the bolt up, and touch a taper candle to the bolt as close to the nut as possible and the heat sucks some wax into the joint. Helps a ton. Maybe it's just me, but I've had this work when brute force wouldn't.
 
When i had to replace the U joints on my S-10 a few years ago, There was wax inside that had to be melted out, but as soon as the wax melted the ujoints came right out...maybe the wax does work...
 
canadianwheeler said:
I got my driverside spring nut spinning inside my frame (unibody)right now. I tried cutting into the frame from behind the bumper with no luck. I just gave up and returned the shackles and bought a 2 inch block. Maybe someday ill get that bolt out.

if its spinning - it isnt to rorque spec... and i dont know anything about thoes, but i woudlnt want another part to fling its way off my jeep... already had my share of that...
 
Problem solved!!!!!

When I first melted and (when trying to pull the leaf spring eye and bushings out while 1/8 inch of the thread of the bolt was still in the nut) stripped both the drivers side nuts that were tac-welded inside the frame. I solved the problem by purchasing 10.9 class hardened steel bolts, having my buddy use the 4 foot crobar to put 60 lbs of pressure on the back of the rachet while I torqued it in and actually rethreaded the nut. The 10.9 Class bolts acted as a tap which actually re-threaded the nuts inside the frame. The only reason I did it this way is because I don't plan on taking the bolts out ever again!!!! I am just glad I didn't have to torch a hole in the frame of floor to remove the striped nut and reweld a new one>>>>Thank god

D
 
The reason the bolts won't come out is there is a metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing that has rusted to the bolt. Cut the spring off as close to the spring eye as you can get, then cut and peal the metal sleave off of the outside of the rubber bushing. Next, with a razor blade cut the rubber bushing away until the inner metal sleeve is exposed. The inner metal sleeve has a seam in it, turn the bolt until the seam is visible. Using a chizel and BFH, split the inner sleave at the seam while using profuse amounts of penetrating oil. If you have not broken the buried eye nut welds to the inner frame, the bolt will then come out with little effort.
 
steagall9301 said:
"I got my driverside spring nut spinning inside my frame (unibody)right now. I tried cutting into the frame from behind the bumper with no luck. I just gave up"

dude, go through the floor of the jeep, depending how loose that is it could be BAD JOO JOO!!!!

I have tried it really snugged in there tight. Only half the nut is showing. The other half is covered by frame.
 
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