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Rear leaf springs
- Thread starter Bzamora
- Start date
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
Like everything else Crown Automotive and OmixAda, you will likely be disappointed with cheap junk from China and India. General Spring seems to have some made in USA products.
I would find a local spring shop and see what they can make or order for you.
Huskyspring.com has some good choices.
I would find a local spring shop and see what they can make or order for you.
Huskyspring.com has some good choices.
Last edited:
- Location
- In a strange land
My ARB/Old Man Emu springs are working well for me.
From my experience ordering them I would advise you order springs (if you go that route) one at a time. Mine beat the daylights out of each other getting to me.
From my experience ordering them I would advise you order springs (if you go that route) one at a time. Mine beat the daylights out of each other getting to me.
Ralph77
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- East Coast
It has been awhile since I ordered them, and maybe one of these years will actually get them on, but last I knew the Up Country leaf springs from Mopar were still available.
Not cheap and they don't come with bushings but......
I was able to order them through my local dealership.
Not cheap and they don't come with bushings but......
I was able to order them through my local dealership.
Ralph77
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- East Coast
I have seen guys use threaded rod, washers and nuts to do it.
Thinking they put them in the freezer first though.
Retiring out of a Napa I know a lot of garages.
Sure one of them has a press.
And there is a couple of suspension shops in my area so figure I can get it done one way or another.
Thinking they put them in the freezer first though.
Retiring out of a Napa I know a lot of garages.
Sure one of them has a press.
And there is a couple of suspension shops in my area so figure I can get it done one way or another.
maxbraketorque
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PDX
Most machine shops with a press can handle bushing installation.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
The other option would be just using polyurethane bshings!
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
Isn't polyurethane another way to spell squeaky ?
Most automotive shops, 4x4 shops, and machine shops have a press or two.
Most automotive shops, 4x4 shops, and machine shops have a press or two.
Okay, next question guys... how hard is it to remove the bolts? Do I really have to heat them red hot, pound on them and pray the welded-in nuts don't break loose? My XJ has been garaged for most of its life and is mostly rust-free, but I still see scare stories.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
No, you just need to lube them. Been running them in my street cars too!
If you've never had them out you need to be cautious by starting with penetrating lube for a couple of weeks.
XJI6191
NAXJA Forum User
There's access holes in the bottom of the frame which allows you to spray penetrant in the general direction of the welded nut. What I've done is to heat the boss containing that nut with the aim of expanding the nut, rather than the bolt.
My other trick (at the front) was to radius the pinchweld to get a socket on a 10" extension direct on the bolthead, support the extension on a jackstand, then there is plenty of room to swing as long a breaker bar as you have outside the bodywork.
Heated the bolt (maybe heating nut would work?) to just about red hot.
Waited for it to cool down.
Broke loose very easily.
I tried penetrating oil for weeks. breaker bar + jack handle and got no where
I recommend doing the front bolts first then moving to rear.
Old timer gave "always use heat" in another leaf spring removal thread.
Huge thanks to him.
Now use heat on any bolt/screw that wont come out (that can safely apply heat). Saved so much effort.
Waited for it to cool down.
Broke loose very easily.
I tried penetrating oil for weeks. breaker bar + jack handle and got no where
I recommend doing the front bolts first then moving to rear.
Old timer gave "always use heat" in another leaf spring removal thread.
Huge thanks to him.
Now use heat on any bolt/screw that wont come out (that can safely apply heat). Saved so much effort.
- Location
- New Mexico
I did mine with a big c-clamp. They went in really easily.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
That can be a problem, I started tack welding mine because they would "walk" otherwise. I switched to the urethane one because of ease and the shoulder they have, never had a problem since!
Woodswanderer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SEPA
Shackle to spring and shackle to frame bolts came out pretty easily on mine, with 2 cans of pblaster on them over a week (northeast/new england history xj). Original springs at 200k/24 years. Fronts frame to eyelet bolts took jumping on a cheater bar’d 1/2” breaker to move. One snapped the captive nut in the end and required cutting an access hole in the mount. Tbh, doing it again id just plan to cut access holes from the start, chisel or wrench the captive nuts free, cut the bolt off and be done with it. I seem to recall my husky springs came with new hardware.
Degrease and spray some truck bed liner in there before and after install for corrosion protection, no need to reweld it back.
Theres 2 listings for husky springs on rock auto. The longer free arch is what i went with, and it is jusy shy of the upcountry stock height. They are stiff as hell though, and im still breaking them in 40k later
Degrease and spray some truck bed liner in there before and after install for corrosion protection, no need to reweld it back.
Theres 2 listings for husky springs on rock auto. The longer free arch is what i went with, and it is jusy shy of the upcountry stock height. They are stiff as hell though, and im still breaking them in 40k later
