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Re-gearing differentials myself?

It's not at all difficult, just tedious and definitely need the right tools.

Digital micrometer
Travel Dial indicator
Torque Wrench
Carrier & Pinion bearing puller (or bearing separator)
Hydraulic Press
Set up bearings (can use old bearings)


A plan ole micrometer will work, no need for digital.

The arbor press need not be hydraulic. A rack and pinion type can work too.

In some cases a case spreader may be required, but sometimes a nite in the freezer for the carrier is enough to get it to fit the pumpkin. I have done it both ways.

lots of patience if first time, golly I made over 15 patterns on the gear the first time. But got better at it on subsequent jobs.
 
I had 3.55 gears on 35s and it was generally fine. Going to 4.10s and 33s now to return to stock gearing situation.
 
working on 44s. gears will be done in my garage with the help of local jeeper who has done it quite a few times.

At first glance, it looks doable for a detail minded novice. just too many ways to screw it up and not something you can easily replace or fix IMO
 
Thanks for the replies and sorry for not responding sooner. I am pretty sore and tired after thrashing this weekend on the lift kit. Everything went pretty good except I had a terrible death wobble due to getting the correct size bolt mixed up for the unibody side of the track bar mount. I have the Kevin's Offroad upgrade for the axle mount side. I also forgot to tighten my jam nuts so the alignment appointment was embarrassing.

I also had some driveline vibration which was not unexpected. I got the transfer case drop installed today, so will test that out in the AM. Overall, I am impressed with the IRO lift kit and I really like the tires. They ride like big fluffy pillows. The XJ looks like this now.

ZOpJu3d.jpg


m4SlT3I.jpg
 
I had 3.55 gears on 35s and it was generally fine. Going to 4.10s and 33s now to return to stock gearing situation.

4.1 with 33 tires is NOT stock ratio. I run that system and it sucks on uphills, no power. you need a higher ratio than 4.1 gears if you want a stock overall ratio on 33 tires. I am contemplating 4.56 as a fix, but that is a lot of work and cost for me. I may wait till I decide on 35 tires then regear for the 35 tires.
 
4.1 with 33 tires is NOT stock ratio. I run that system and it sucks on uphills, no power. you need a higher ratio than 4.1 gears if you want a stock overall ratio on 33 tires. I am contemplating 4.56 as a fix, but that is a lot of work and cost for me. I may wait till I decide on 35 tires then regear for the 35 tires.

Agreed. I run 4.56 with 33s and while contemplating going to 35s I just know it will change the low end torque band that I like so much with this combo. I also know I'd probably be wanting 4.88 w/35s. I drive 65-70 effortlessly which is more than fast enough in a lifted vehicle. Still downshifts on grades of course but would do so even more with 35/4.56.
 
I would recommend against digital just go old school teach yourself how to read it. Id assume those buying digital haven't taken the time to learn how to read a caliper. I know I did and feels silly. Live and learn

I agree, don't get a cheap digital micrometer. I use a digital caliper daily (mechanical engineer), so I don't have a cheap one. ;) And just because I have a quality digital caliper, doesn't mean I don't know how to read a Vernier caliper. :nono: You know what they say about assuming. Digital is just far faster when using it on a daily basis (and easier on the eyes). So, not only is someone having to learn how to set up gears, but you want to add to their curriculum to also learn how to read a Vernier caliper they may use for the one project.


A plan ole micrometer will work, no need for digital.

The arbor press need not be hydraulic.

An arbor press huh? And what size arbor press would you recommend to press carrier bearings on? How much would an arbor press that size cost? Large arbor presses are not cheap.

A 12ton HF hydraulic press will do the job for ~$100. Were you maybe thinking Pnumatic? :dunno:
 
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