Quick question: torque wrench?

[md21722]

Cobalt bits are more brittle so they're more subject to snapping. My 01 had fks flanged studs and nuts. I ended up cutting the nuts off. To drive the studs out I used a powerful air hammer and ear protection. Don't go this way unless you must.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

If you do snap off an end stud don't go nuts. Sometimes they just break and fall out on their own. My 96, bought used, came to me with no end studs (front or rear). I decided to drill and replace when I needed a new exhaust manifold. Drove it for around 6 years with no end studs, never gave me any issues. I snapped an end stud off on my 88, never caused an issue. I eventually got around to replacing it.

I never had any real trouble with the header to cross over pipe bolts, Renix or HO. I soak them with penetrating oil, clean the exposed threads with a small wire brush, re-soak and remove. I did put new nuts/bolts in my Renix.

If you do need to drill a broken bolt out, Cobalt drill bits are the only way go. They last twice as long as regular HSS drill bits. Cobalt bits are a little pricey, but IMO worth it.

Okay. I think I'm going to get new studs and bolts, at least all the bolts and the two studs that came out. Just as a test I tried to screw in a stud by hand and it wouldn't go past 2 turns. Nope! break appalooza. I may not mess with the back one that's in.

However I'm one step away from being able to take the intake manifold off, therefore allowing me to take the Ex manifold off the back stud and be complete.

I cannot get the metal fitting that runs from intake to exhaust off. Any suggestions. I'm so dang close and now I'm just stuck.

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[Chick-N-Picker]

Also just to make sure about these fittings. To loosen do I pull toward the firewall or push toward the clutch fan? This is unbelievable. 1 step away

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

Never mind I was trying to turn it backward. I had to pull toward the clutch fan. Boom, it came loose. I'm luck I didn't break anything as hard as I pulling earlier.

 

[8Mud]

IMO you can reuse the stock bolts and cone washers. The stock bolts are good quality, I've never had any issues with them.

The stock studs are a whole other can of worms.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

Okay. I got the EX Manifold out a while ago. I had to cut my own pipe but that was okay because it didn't go all the way to cat anyway. (Cat, muffler, tailpipe are ready to go btw) It did have a small crack in it.

I had to take it to a muffler shop to get the crack welded. He did a good job and and said it should hold for a while, but of course somewhere down the line it will most likely re-crack. He said it could be 6 months or 3 years. Oh well, I couldn't afford a new one now anyway.

So I ordered
- new down pipe
- both flange gasket (circle & square)
- EX manifold gasket
- new vacuum harness
- got 6 new exhaust bolts
- Throttle body cleaner
- getting the stuff to do cruiser tip 31 in the morning

Now it leads me to a few questions and points.

First the dude at the muffler shop had to heat the flange bolts to red hot to knock them out. So I have no idea how I'm getting the 4 bolts out at the CAT flange. I need them out so I can do the EX man and down pipe while everything is out of my way.

1. What size bolts are the flange bolts? He cut them up and I no store knows. I know they are 9/16.

2. Will these work as my studs?(picture) they are 3/8-16 & 3/8-24 however they are a little longer on both sides than the stock, other than that, identical. If not, where can I get the exact length ones?


3. Any general advice for reassembly, assuming I get there?

Reminder 2 studs are out. The back one is still in.
I was planning on using 2 new studs for the front but just a new nut for the back. I guess could try to use vice grips and get the back one out as well. I've read and had conflicting suggestions on this stud.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

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[8Mud]

The way I put them in and take them out is to put two nuts on the stud tighten/jam them together and try to turn them out with the bottom nut and tighten them in with the top nut.

You might try wiggling that back stud a little and see what happens. Knowing when to stop can be your friend.

Put a nut on the end of the stud that goes into the block and cut it to the same length as the original. Turn the nut off to dress the threads a little, maybe touch it up slightly with a file, a slight bevel. High temp anti seize both sets of threads.

Galvanized/zink platted anything is usually soft metal and not hardened. Your new studs are likely pretty soft. SAE Grade five if you are lucky, likely Grade 2. They don't need to be super tight, the middle bolts do most of the work.

The Cat flange bolts, get them out anyway you can, Try to unbolt them, if that doesn't work and the heads are still good, tighten until they snap. If the bolt heads are screwed up you may have to cut or grind the heads off with an angle grinder. If you have a nut splitter use that. Replacement bolts should be hardened, coated/plated and anti seize.

Stubborn nut or bolt trick, heat it with a butane/propane torch (doesn't need to be red hot) I've even used a heat gun. Then quench it with spray oil, repeat. A few cycles of heating and cooling usually breaks the bond. Works like a million bucks on brake lines.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

The way I put them in and take them out is to put two nuts on the stud tighten/jam them together and try to turn them out with the bottom nut and tighten them in with the top nut.

You might try wiggling that back stud a little and see what happens. Knowing when to stop can be your friend.

Put a nut on the end of the stud that goes into the block and cut it to the same length as the original. Turn the nut off to dress the threads a little, maybe touch it up slightly with a file, a slight bevel. High temp anti seize both sets of threads.

Galvanized/zink platted anything is usually soft metal and not hardened. Your new studs are likely pretty soft. SAE Grade five if you are lucky, likely Grade 2. They don't need to be super tight, the middle bolts do most of the work.

The Cat flange bolts, get them out anyway you can, Try to unbolt them, if that doesn't work and the heads are still good, tighten until they snap. If the bolt heads are screwed up you may have to cut or grind the heads off with an angle grinder. If you have a nut splitter use that. Replacement bolts should be hardened, coated/plated and anti seize.

Stubborn nut or bolt trick, heat it with a butane/propane torch (doesn't need to be red hot) I've even used a heat gun. Then quench it with spray oil, repeat. A few cycles of heating and cooling usually breaks the bond. Works like a million bucks on brake lines.

Okay. I guess I'll have to take those studs somewhere to be cut. I do not have the tool to cut those studs.

Second on the cat flange bolts. On both sides I only have about 1" of pipe. If I knock out the flange from the rubber shake reducer can, will it hammer back in?

Third I can not find how long (spec) the the down pipe flange bolts are supposed to be.

 

[RedHeep]

They need to be long enough to put a nut on them.

You're way overthinking this process.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

^ thank you.

Yeah. It and to overthink things sometes but to be honest I'd rather overthink and not f up than just do and create much worse problems. I'm still new to a lot of mechanic work.

 

[RedHeep]

^ thank you.

Yeah. It and to overthink things sometes but to be honest I'd rather overthink and not f up than just do and create much worse problems. I'm still new to a lot of mechanic work.

Do you have a factory service manual?

If you're going to be particular about doing maintenance the right way you might as well go all out.

I'm not trying to beat up on you. It's just interesting that you're willing to concede not using a torque wrench on your manifold bolts but you're concerned about the length and material of the bolts that hold the downpipe to the donut gasket.

If you can handle a little ribbing you'll fit in just fine.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

Do you have a factory service manual?

If you're going to be particular about doing maintenance the right way you might as well go all out.

I'm not trying to beat up on you. It's just interesting that you're willing to concede not using a torque wrench on your manifold bolts but you're concerned about the length and material of the bolts that hold the downpipe to the donut gasket.

If you can handle a little ribbing you'll fit in just fine.

Haha rib away.
Good point on the torque wrench part. I asked and I got enough answers from yall that made me feel ok. I may still try to use a torque wrench on the top bolts.

I know sometimes you need special hardware. When I ask a question that simple just chime in "regular bolts, you idiot."

 

[8Mud]

Haha rib away.
Good point on the torque wrench part. I asked and I got enough answers from yall that made me feel ok. I may still try to use a torque wrench on the top bolts.

I know sometimes you need special hardware. When I ask a question that simple just chime in "regular bolts, you idiot."

I'm really hesitant to use ungraded hardware, Grade 5 or better for me. For the simple reason there is a lot of junk around. I wouldn't trust some of the hardware I've gotten from Home Depot, mostly the cheap stuff, to hold anything for long. Quality control for some of the Chinese junk is pretty lax.

I usually find me a specialty fastener shop and buy my stuff there. Anymore the chromate coated nuts and bolts, even graded stainless is fairly easy to come by. In some applications it is better to err on the side of caution.

I got really lucky, bought a ton of assorted fasteners from a military surplus auction for about the price of scrap metal. A lifetime supply of most sizes. Me and the kids spent a lot of quality time together watching videos and sorting nuts and bolts. All of my kids are grown now and even the girls know all about thread count, SAE grade, size, length and whatever at a glance. LOL

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

Update: I found today studs with correct length at my local hardware store while looking for brass bolts for both flange. That saved me time.

I got the new down pipe and exhaust manifold beach in and bolted together. I thought for a dang second the new down pipe was going to rub this little bracket hanging on transmission. I also thought it was going to rub cross member. After I bolted it up, it missed both. Still pretty close but I hope it doesn't shake and rub.

On the 2 flange bolts. I just tightened them until they got pretty hard to turn. I guess that's good.

I also did cruiser54's tip 31 (not sure if he's known here). I've got to run buy 1 bolt and washer and pickup a couple vacuum elbows I had to order. Then I'm going to start attaching intake manifold back

 

[8Mud]

A trick I learned awhile back, probably too late for this time. I leave the header to crossover pipe connection a little loose and the other exhaust clamp connections loose, out a 3/4 inch piece of wood under the pipe where it goes over the cross member. Double check the end piece to gas tank clearance and the exhaust pipe hump over the rear diff to shock clearance at the shock. Then I tighten everything down at once. Remove the wood block and you should have nearly perfect clearance.

If you spray the rear rubber hanger, near the hump, with spray oil it is a lot easier to press together.

Also turn your exhaust U clamps to the side before tightening. Those things hanging down will open your skull if you are crawling around down there looking for problems later on. Ask me how I know this.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

^ thank you. I will be rolling without a cat, muffler, or tail pipe for probably a month or so. I have the new cat & at tail pipe ready with the old muffler.

Anyway, I have a stupid problem. I have the exahaust mani back on. The down pipe back on. The intake manifold back on. The power steering back on. The new injectors and fuel rail back on.

I however was getting ready to put on the vacuum harness. I had to buy the passenger side of the harness but the driver side was completely fine.
I can't get the old one apart. No matter how hard I squeeze those stupid, opposite side tabs. Dumb design.

I do not want to spend $20! on the other side just click it together when the I have is fine.
Also I'm being very careful not to break it.

 

[alexgalexg]

Just tighten it down in the proper pattern and torque. If you want to check it after driving it a little while just remove the air box and get at it with a socket and extensions. But you'd probably know if it came loose.

 

[Chick-N-Picker]

Well yesterday afternoon I got everything put back together. I started the Jeep and it seemed ok. So I drove about 1.5-2 to test it out. It seemed a little weird when I would slow down or come to a stop. At the same time though it felt better and seemed to go better, while driving.

So I went home, I got out and popped the hood to watch it. It had a big idle problem that it never had. It would idle fine then it would drop really low and almost die. Then it wold pick back up. It did die once. I looked and noticed I did leave the o2 sensor unplugged. So I plugged it up and no change.

I started it today and it idled fine for 2 minutes so I took it for a drive. When I came back it did the same idle thing again. Here's a reminder of all I did and my setup.

1. New exhaust manifold gasket
2. Fixed a exmanifold Crack
3. 746 injectors
4. New vacuum harness
5. Cleaned TB and IAC (carb cleaner)
6. Did cruiser tip 31
7. New down pipe
8. New flange gaskets

I have no exhaust after the down pipe. But I never have since I started driving it for 9 months (except day 1). What could be wrong. Ibe checked 10x and nothing is unplugged and when I spray for vacuum leaks, it shows none.

PS I can post a video of it. If it helps