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Quick Battery Related Question

uvaldetxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Uvalde, Texas
This question is for Renix-era jeeps.
My Question :
Do any of you all know what wires go connected to the battery, by factory standards. My - only had the - ground connected to it, but my + has the + battery cable plus the medium thick wire that goes to the solenoid near the relay block plus another wire that came from the wiring harness. My problem is that last wire, i don't think that's the way it's supposed to be. It's like a 10 ga. red wire, and there are quite a few that look exactly alike.
What Happened :
Yesterday I was driving around here on my property when I heard a buzz coming from somewhere behind the dash. Well the jeep started getting sluggish and then just shut off. There was a little bit of smoke coming from the area around the fuseblock. I opened the hood and that wire from the harness to the battery had melted. I cut that wire and reconnected a wire of equal thickness to the battery just to get it back home. It ran just fine.
The Symptoms :
If I turn my key to the "on" position, the lights and stuff still work but if I try and start the jeep it won't do anything. My signals aren't working, but i'm going to blame that on a bad ground because there's a green arrow lit up. My wipers weren't working, i don't know if that has any relevance.

thanks in advance.

1987 XJ 4.0 AW4 NP231 D30 D44
 
Last edited:
Click on the link my sig and upgrade your cables.
 
OEM RENIX battery cables:
Negative Post - to the engine block (the chassis is grounded by way of the engine block. Adding a secondary ground directly to the chassis isn't a bad idea - use min. 6AWG.)

Positive Post - to the starter motor and to the starter motor relay (latter for distribution.) The third cable has been added by a PO - and should be traced so a decision on whether to eliminate it can be made.

A turn indicator failing to flash can be caused by a burned-out bulb, the typical symptom is either a change in flash rate or a "steady on" condition. However, the "steady on" can also be caused by a failed flasher unit - however, that would affect both sides.

For the No CRANK condition, I'm going to say to check the ignition electrical switch, down by the firewall atop the steering column. It's actually a fairly common problem.
 
Check your fusible links (right after the solenoid). I had a few oddball things that didn't work, turns out one of those wires had self destructed. You can easily tell if one or more of them is bad,, just run your hand over them, if it feels like a vacuum tube then the wire is shot. Replace it with a like rating fusible link wire. They are your first line of fuses.
Hope this helps
 
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