Question on "new gear" break-in.. Different scenario.

[old_man]

Like the man said, break them in how you want. It's your choice. The biggest thing is that they are set up correctly. Given a good set of gears and if set up correctly, they tend to not get that hot during breakin any way, otherwise new cars would all fail. There is the ideal and there is the good enough. Life is a set of tradeoffs. Pay your money and take your pick. The problem comes when either the gears are not of the highest machining accuracy or they are poorly set up, either from a warped housing or a lazy/inept mechanic.

 

[shawnhancel]

Ill be doing mine in 2 months, so I been following this (4.88s in a HP30 & 8.25, with arbs) Some absolute nonsense but some good information, just got to sort though it all. I hope the OP shares with us what he did when he opens it up at 500, so I am sure not to ruin anything, want to be extra careful with the lockers.

I do have a question, are you flushing the housing with anything? I think ill hide a strong magnet in there if I can(fitting), but if bearing are lubed by the oil, wont shavings sit in the bearings?

 

[Hoooper]

I think ill hide a strong magnet in there if I can(fitting), but if bearing are lubed by the oil, wont shavings sit in the bearings?

the idea isnt that you will catch all of the shavings as they happen, but that you can remove the loose shavings so that they do not get mixed in with your bearings, gears, etc. It would be ignorant to think that you can keep all of the shavings totally clear of everything, but removing as much as you can is better than not removing any

 

[shawnhancel]

yea i absolutely agree, it could be done, but you'd have to drill and install pumps and inline filters and all kinds of stuff. I just curious, about the breaking in gear shavings and getting it cleaned out best as possible. Something I think anybody who would go though the all this trouble so far would also consider.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

there should be no "shavings". More like a extremely fine dusting to the oil.

I tell every customer, they must remove the cover, for the first 500mile only change, and not just do a suction and refill, as that only gets about 75% of the old oil out.

And if they care to really be good to thier diff, buy a can of brake parts cleaner and use 1/2 can per diff, spraying the internals down and wipping the oil / cleaner mix out to the drain pan and then wipe it dry where ever they can get to, when done. Not some intense washing, just some wipping down.

There should not be any pieces you can feel or such. The oil should only look like metallic paint.

 

[etatum21]

I just had my gears installed and was curious about the break in period, noticed this thread and started reading. Now I have a few empty beers, and a little bug crawling across the floor in my bathroom. I think ill change the oil in 500 miles and move on.