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Question about WJ swap

the important measurement isnt the depth of the bore fitment into the knuckle...

its the retaining surface from the end of the unit bearing to the edge of the bore fitment. but thinking about it simply... i would guess that the WJ unit bearing would properly center the Ujoint and still provide the right hat height for the rotor. that is assuming that the JK knuckle is the same (dimensionally) as the WJ one. i understand they use the same BJs, but youd really need to compare the JK and WJ knuckles. at the very least... the unit bearings. if they are identical, then its possible?

but im still failing to see the gain... with the addition of a $25 spacer, you now have 5on4.5... meaning no need for new wheels or to address the rear bolt patter.

You get a Bigger beefier Unit bearing designed to handle higher loads + No need to weld anything.
As far as bolt pattern, The WJ unit bearing is easy to redrill to the proper pattern, or you can use any of the new Jeep wheels always for sale on Craigs List (New 17" rubicon wheels/tires on CL seem to be cheaper than the older pattern wheels), Re-drilling the real axle flanges is easy.
 
hmmm... i guess i can see it.

i eliminated the unit bearing all together, so i guess i couldnt identify with that point.

as for rims, i wouldnt want a 17 on anything smaller than a 37, but thats personal preference. my 35" MTRs are as far as i want to push the D30.

and i dont see the people who are afraid to or cant find someone to weld a little spacer on being confident in drilling 30 holes into their shafts, unit bearings, and rotors... even if it is fairly strait forward.
 
That machined hub is MJR's rig. 4x4wire article. He was probably the first do do it, but he has access to parts. The ideal spacing is .230, but .250 plate puts the u joint close enough.

I'm running 17" wheels with 285x70-17 (33's) tires, I guess I'll stick to the fire roads. :)
 
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